Clueless
#1
Thread Starter
Member

Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Philadelphia
Clueless
I have no idea which board to post this on, so i figured i'd post it here where it gets the most hits...here goes my question
Im not sure on what bike to get, I'm about 5'4" 115lbs and ride around the city about 80% of the time and some trails/rocky cliffs 20%. Should I get a mountain bike or a hybrid for this? Also, which brand should I stick to and which should I stay way from? I looked at some Trek's and they looked good.
Im not sure on what bike to get, I'm about 5'4" 115lbs and ride around the city about 80% of the time and some trails/rocky cliffs 20%. Should I get a mountain bike or a hybrid for this? Also, which brand should I stick to and which should I stay way from? I looked at some Trek's and they looked good.
#2
20% on some trails/rocky cliffs is enought to justify a mountain bike. A touring/cyclocross bike might be an option also but I would think you'ld be more confortable with a mountain bike. They are less efficient on roads but can be more comfortable too.
#3
RAGBRAI. Need I say more?

Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
From: West Branch, Iowa USA
Bikes: 1998 Mongoose NX7.1, 2008 Kona Jake, GT singlespeed (year unknown).
I would also vote for the mountain bike. There are many makes of "sport" versions out there. If you are looking for a lower end bike, I would go to your local bike shop and look at $300 range bikes. This weekend I went to help my GF pick out a new bike. She needed one primarily for biking downtown to class. We got her a $220 Raliegh mountain bike. It has the adjustable riser handlebar stem, which is nice for the casual rider. This bike also had semi-slicks for the mostly city riding it will see.
Look around at the bike shop and ask a lot of questions.
Look around at the bike shop and ask a lot of questions.
#5
RAGBRAI. Need I say more?

Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
From: West Branch, Iowa USA
Bikes: 1998 Mongoose NX7.1, 2008 Kona Jake, GT singlespeed (year unknown).
Originally posted by dnnythms
i looked at the Trek 4x00 series, it's their "rec" mountain bikes. Is it better than the Cannondale m400?
i looked at the Trek 4x00 series, it's their "rec" mountain bikes. Is it better than the Cannondale m400?
#6
Just remember, nobody ever said you have to settle for just one bike.
Though depending on your city streets, I can definitely see the utility of a mountain bike for that 80%. We rode into the Loop today and it was bounce, bounce, bounce all over the place, potholes galore. A full suspension mountain bike would have made for a much more comfortable ride.
Though depending on your city streets, I can definitely see the utility of a mountain bike for that 80%. We rode into the Loop today and it was bounce, bounce, bounce all over the place, potholes galore. A full suspension mountain bike would have made for a much more comfortable ride.
#7
Yes, suspension mountain bikes are quite comfortable. I used to scorn at them somewhat because I thought they are slow and inefficient (they are indeed slower) but I tried a friends and I could not believe how comfortable his bike was (but that one was very heavy) it was a new experience. My commute is already borderline for road/touring bike (poor roads) but if you are going on gravel, stone, mud, etc. it is worth considering. It will save the vibration you get on your commute from making you look like you have parkison desease when you get at destination.
#8
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
Your size is borderline for larger 700c wheels, and if you want to ride anything technical, you will find smaller wheels easier to handle. Go with 26" MTB wheels, but fit a mixed use tyre with a continuous tread. Knobbly tryres suck on the road.
I would suggest an MTB with a quality fixed fork . These are much more comfortable than cheapo steel forks on low-end bikes. You can use a suspension front fork if you want, but it will add weight and maintainance.
Pick the right sized bike, one with plenty of standover height, and not too long from saddle to bars. Make sure the cranks (bits of metal with pedals at the end) are on the short side. Try and get 165mm length, not 170mm, and definately avoid 175, which seems to be standard on many MTBS.
Pick a frame of butted steel or aluminium, with threaded eyelets for fitting a luggage rack and fenders. Even if you dont use them right now, one day you will.
Jamis makes some well designed bikes at good prices.
See
https://www.jamisbikes.com/hardtails_intro01.html
I would suggest an MTB with a quality fixed fork . These are much more comfortable than cheapo steel forks on low-end bikes. You can use a suspension front fork if you want, but it will add weight and maintainance.
Pick the right sized bike, one with plenty of standover height, and not too long from saddle to bars. Make sure the cranks (bits of metal with pedals at the end) are on the short side. Try and get 165mm length, not 170mm, and definately avoid 175, which seems to be standard on many MTBS.
Pick a frame of butted steel or aluminium, with threaded eyelets for fitting a luggage rack and fenders. Even if you dont use them right now, one day you will.
Jamis makes some well designed bikes at good prices.
See
https://www.jamisbikes.com/hardtails_intro01.html
#9
Banned

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,688
Likes: 2
From: upstate New York
I'd go for the hybrid. If 80% of your riding is going to be on pavement, why would you want to haul around all the extra weight of a suspension bike? Knobby tyres cause a lot of drag on pavement, too. And also, the gearing on a hybrid will be more appropriate for pavement riding.
Buy the MTB if you want to be a dirt bike poseur (there certainly are enough of them around), but buy the hybrid if you need to use it seriously.
Buy the MTB if you want to be a dirt bike poseur (there certainly are enough of them around), but buy the hybrid if you need to use it seriously.
__________________
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
#10
Chicago Cyclist

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Bikes: My frame is covered in reflective tape. After adding ridiculously large handlebars, a comfy seat, and enough carrying capacity to haul a Thanksgiving grocery run home, the manufacturer wouldn't recognize it.
On a short test ride (15 minutes or so) through city streets, the difference between a hybrid and a mountain bike will be minimal. But as the time increases, you will notice the difference. 3 hours on my hybrid on the streets of Chicago at a decent speed feels like no effort at all. However, 3 hours on my Shogun mountain bike on the streets of Chicago at a decent speed is tiring.
Once winter comes, I'm hoping that my Shogun will earn its keep as a bike that will be useful for riding through snow. If it ends up being a winter that is dry or icy rather than snowy, I'll probably use my hybrid most of the time.
Once winter comes, I'm hoping that my Shogun will earn its keep as a bike that will be useful for riding through snow. If it ends up being a winter that is dry or icy rather than snowy, I'll probably use my hybrid most of the time.
#12
Banned

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,688
Likes: 2
From: upstate New York
Theoretically, yes. However, a tyre with lots of knobby tread would probably be slower than a 43mm slick. Also, a 23mm tyre running at 25 psig pressure would create more drag than that same 43mm slick inflated to 90 psig.
__________________
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
Je vais à vélo, donc je suis!
#13
The Flying Scot

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,904
Likes: 0
From: North Queensferry Scotland and London (and France)
Bikes: Custom (Colin Laing) 531c fast tourer/audax, 1964 Flying Scot Continental, 1995 Cinelli Supercorsa, Holdsworth Mistral single speed, Dahon Speed 6 (folder), Micmo Sirocco and a few more
Originally posted by D*Alex
I'd go for the hybrid. If 80% of your riding is going to be on pavement, why would you want to haul around all the extra weight of a suspension bike? Knobby tyres cause a lot of drag on pavement, too. And also, the gearing on a hybrid will be more appropriate for pavement riding.
Buy the MTB if you want to be a dirt bike poseur (there certainly are enough of them around), but buy the hybrid if you need to use it seriously.
I'd go for the hybrid. If 80% of your riding is going to be on pavement, why would you want to haul around all the extra weight of a suspension bike? Knobby tyres cause a lot of drag on pavement, too. And also, the gearing on a hybrid will be more appropriate for pavement riding.
Buy the MTB if you want to be a dirt bike poseur (there certainly are enough of them around), but buy the hybrid if you need to use it seriously.
__________________
plus je vois les hommes, plus j'admire les chiens
1985 Sandy Gilchrist-Colin Laing built 531c Audax/fast tourer.
1964 Flying Scot Continental (531)
1995 Cinelli Supercorsa (Columbus SLX)
1980s Holdsworth Mistral fixed (531)
2005 Dahon Speed 6 (folder)
(YES I LIKE STEEL)
2008 Viking Saratoga tandem
2008 Micmo Sirocco Hybrid (aluminium!)
2012 BTwin Rockrider 8.1
plus je vois les hommes, plus j'admire les chiens
1985 Sandy Gilchrist-Colin Laing built 531c Audax/fast tourer.
1964 Flying Scot Continental (531)
1995 Cinelli Supercorsa (Columbus SLX)
1980s Holdsworth Mistral fixed (531)
2005 Dahon Speed 6 (folder)
(YES I LIKE STEEL)
2008 Viking Saratoga tandem
2008 Micmo Sirocco Hybrid (aluminium!)
2012 BTwin Rockrider 8.1
#15
RAGBRAI. Need I say more?

Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 868
Likes: 0
From: West Branch, Iowa USA
Bikes: 1998 Mongoose NX7.1, 2008 Kona Jake, GT singlespeed (year unknown).
In recent months, I have help several people pick out a new city commuter bike. From what I can see, there is very little difference between a hybrid and a rigid fork "sport" MTB. If you put 1.5" slicks on a MTB with a high rise stem, you essenstially have a hybrid. Granted the 700cc wheels do ride a bit different that the 26", but I personally feel more secure with the 26" wheel.
I think MTB's have become so popular with the city crowd because city riding is much more demanding than one would think. And there is a big difference in comfort between a "pro" MTB and a "sport" MTB. They are two entirely different bikes.
I think MTB's have become so popular with the city crowd because city riding is much more demanding than one would think. And there is a big difference in comfort between a "pro" MTB and a "sport" MTB. They are two entirely different bikes.
#16
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
Likes: 9
From: England
If you compare a 26" MTB with low pressure knobblies against a 700c racing wheel, of cource 700c will be faster, but put a mid-sized touring style tyre on both , and inflate both to the same pressure, and the difference is marginal.
More important is the fact thet 700 c is the largest wheel size which will easily fit into an average size frame. For someone who is 5'4, they will be using a smaller frame. 700c will be too large, and the frame will have to be compromised to fit the extra-large wheels.
I saw a couple on 2 custom touring bikes from the same builder. One was a standard 700c fast touring bike with 700c x 28mm. The woman's bike was a small fast touring bike with 26" x 1.25" tyres. Both were well proportioned, well designed bikes, one for a big person, the other for a small person.
Does any manufacturer make a small, well proportioned "hybrid" bike using 26" wheels. In the UK, we have a company called Orbit who do just that.
More important is the fact thet 700 c is the largest wheel size which will easily fit into an average size frame. For someone who is 5'4, they will be using a smaller frame. 700c will be too large, and the frame will have to be compromised to fit the extra-large wheels.
I saw a couple on 2 custom touring bikes from the same builder. One was a standard 700c fast touring bike with 700c x 28mm. The woman's bike was a small fast touring bike with 26" x 1.25" tyres. Both were well proportioned, well designed bikes, one for a big person, the other for a small person.
Does any manufacturer make a small, well proportioned "hybrid" bike using 26" wheels. In the UK, we have a company called Orbit who do just that.
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,963
Likes: 1
From: Parrish, FL
Bikes: Lots
I suggest you check out www.HaroBikes.com, I work at a shop that is a dealer for Haro. They have a "comfort" bike that sounds like it would suit your needs very well. It's called a "Del Sol". The 2.0 model is steel frame, alum wheels, grip shift, adjustable stem and suspension seatpost. This retails for $259.00. If you want an aluminum frame and a front suspension fork go for the 3.0 model for $319.00. Their entry level mountain bike is under $300 and is well made and decent components.
L8R G8R
L8R G8R
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger





