Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

multiple tail lights

Search
Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

multiple tail lights

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-25-11 | 11:01 PM
  #51  
rekmeyata's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,954
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana

Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS

Originally Posted by chandltp
Not that it matters, because I'm doing the best I can at this point with reflectivity.
But it seems like from this quote that you think reflectivity, or passive is superior to active lighting and it's not, not even close. Instead of putting anymore effort into reflectors I would put more into lighting. All you need to add is a helmet light and bar end lights. These are great bar end lights: https://store.somafab.com/soroflbarend.html Helmet light? Just find one at an LBS that comes with a helmet mount feature which is usually just a velcro strap. I was able to take a Cateye LD600 and zip tie it to the helmet and it appears I can do the same with my Blackburn Mars4 and neither light came with a velcro strap to strap it a helmet. I like both those tail lights because both have really good side illumination especially if the Cateye is mounted vertically.
rekmeyata is offline  
Reply
Old 12-26-11 | 08:16 AM
  #52  
bisiklet's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Istanbul
For the sake of simplicity and optimum inconvenience/performance point of view, how about a mix of active & passive lighting? E.g. a very intense, pulsing LED with very low duty cycle (on/off ratio), coupled with abundance of reflectors, particularly on moving parts such as pedals, cranks, ankle straps, wheels, tip of "safety sticks" etc.

Intense light pulses would catch a driver's attention early and the reflectors would keep it there. Also, it wouldn't be much irritating to the eye, as there would be just one pulsing light or two (front and back). Easier to maintain, long run times (due to low duty cycle), decent perceptibility. Seems like a good compromise between cost, convenience and safety.
bisiklet is offline  
Reply
Old 12-26-11 | 08:39 AM
  #53  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by rekmeyata
But it seems like from this quote that you think reflectivity, or passive is superior to active lighting and it's not, not even close.
No, that's not what I'm trying to say. My meaning is that my passive visibility is about as good as it's going to get.

I have additional active lighting on order as of noon yesterday.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 12-26-11 | 08:56 AM
  #54  
dynodonn's Avatar
On the lam
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,470
Likes: 96
From: The Village
Originally Posted by rekmeyata

Using your wife to test out your lighting is great idea...

.....and for the single guys, the 300 ft method is a good one too. If one can light up a reflective sign 300 ft down the road at night, that's an indicator in that the odds are good that one is going to be seen by other road users.
dynodonn is offline  
Reply
Old 12-27-11 | 12:41 PM
  #55  
Lurking Under a Rock
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 2
From: Golden, CO
Originally Posted by Jamesw2
One of the rules for doing Randonneurs is that the bike needs to have a fender mounted taillight. For my application i.e. Fender mount, steady state and to comply with the reflector rule most states have PDW Radbot 1000 rear light narrows my options I also like using a rear light during the day

From the RAO Rule book

  1. Bicycles ridden at night must be equipped with a front light visible and operating from 100 meters (300ft.) and steady-state (not-blinking) rear red light or incandescent red light visible from 150 meters (500ft.).
  2. Reflective tape or plastic reflectors must be installed on the back of pedals, cranks, seat stays, wheels, and forks.
  3. Night riding shall be considered that time of day between 7:00PM and 6:00AM and at any time when automobiles would normally have their headlights on. If you have any doubt about the visibility conditions, operate as if it is night time.
I think you'll find a PBSF (or something similar) or two will get you through just about any rando event. reflective tape for the bike is not neccessary. fenders aren't required.
ronocnikral is offline  
Reply
Old 12-27-11 | 01:23 PM
  #56  
jputnam's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,260
Likes: 2
From: Pacific, WA

Bikes: Custom 531ST touring, Bilenky Viewpoint, Bianchi Milano, vintage Condor racer

Originally Posted by mechBgon
Given that the decent blinking rear lights will get noticed from vast distances even in daylight, I find the hypothetical depth-perception benefit (if it really existed) is a moot point. Getting on the radar early, before they resume looking down at the text message they're composing on their cell phone, is the main concern, and that's best done with blinking mode

Seriously, I have no problem assessing the range of a taillight like a SuperFlash at distances approaching 1/2 mile. I can't see through anyone else's eyes, but is it really a problem for any of you? By the time I'm anywhere close, I've already been watching them for quite a while, it's not like WHOA, ALL OF A SUDDEN HE IS ONLY 100 FEET AWAY, HOW ON EARTH DID HE GET THERE?!?!
Only a small part of my daily commute has sight lines of half a mile. Frankly, on roads that straight, I'd be satisfied with a single tail light plus reflectors, since motorists have so much time to spot and avoid me.

I'm much more concerned with motorists who have only a few hundred feet to see and avoid me, either those turning in behind me at intersections or on winding roads. They don't have much time to accurately identify my position, heading, and speed. I want both blinking for conspicuity and steady for tracking.
jputnam is offline  
Reply
Old 01-16-12 | 06:52 AM
  #57  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by rekmeyata
I haven't bought the Cygolite yet, not sure if I will because my main light
Well, I bought one, and it's probably the hardest power switch I've had on any of my bike lights. I have to take my gloves off to turn it on or off, and even then I have to press it just right. I wouldn't buy it again.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-16-12 | 01:11 PM
  #58  
rekmeyata's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,954
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana

Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS

Originally Posted by chandltp
Well, I bought one, and it's probably the hardest power switch I've had on any of my bike lights. I have to take my gloves off to turn it on or off, and even then I have to press it just right. I wouldn't buy it again.
Which Cygolite did you buy? Funny thing about the using gloves, any tail light I have ever bought had a difficult time turning on and off with full finger gloves. No headlight though has ever been a problem including the Cygolites; the buttons are larger on head lights then tail lights which must be smaller to fit the smaller package. My little BLT helmet light is difficult to to operate the switch with full finger gloves.

I don't fuss over the small things, to be safe you need to stop your bike anyway to turn on and off a tail light, so you have to remove a glove...how sad.
rekmeyata is offline  
Reply
Old 01-16-12 | 02:38 PM
  #59  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by rekmeyata
I don't fuss over the small things, to be safe you need to stop your bike anyway to turn on and off a tail light, so you have to remove a glove...how sad.
I bought the Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight. And as I said, even with the gloves off I have a hard time getting it turned on or off sometimes. I have to press the button exactly straight on, which requires me to hold it with my other hand. Not so with my Radbot 1000, I press the button and it works every time.

Even though it claims 2 watt, I don't see a difference between it and my Radbot.

And when it's windy and 10° F outside, the amount of time it takes with my gloves off to turn the light on is enough that my hands probably won't be warm again by the time I get to work.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-17-12 | 05:40 PM
  #60  
rekmeyata's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,954
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana

Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS

Originally Posted by chandltp
I bought the Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight. And as I said, even with the gloves off I have a hard time getting it turned on or off sometimes. I have to press the button exactly straight on, which requires me to hold it with my other hand. Not so with my Radbot 1000, I press the button and it works every time.

Even though it claims 2 watt, I don't see a difference between it and my Radbot.

And when it's windy and 10° F outside, the amount of time it takes with my gloves off to turn the light on is enough that my hands probably won't be warm again by the time I get to work.
I find a lot wrong with what your saying. So far the reports have been that everyone has found a huge difference between the Radbot and the Hotshot; see: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...HotShot-Review and: https://www.bikegurus.com/2011/11/rev...e-hotshot.html The HotShot is so bright it's the only light that has compared to the Dinotte. In addition the Radbot is only 1 watt led vs the Hotshot 2 watt led.

And the whining over the button thing is dead, if you need your light on then turn it on inside the house before you take the bike outside to ride in 20 degree weather.

Personally I think you have a hidden agenda against the HotShot and or Cygolite, maybe you work for Portland? If you do then simply up the ante and come out with the Radbot 2000 with a 2 watt LED, or go all out and surpass the Cygolite with a Radbot 3000 with a 3 watt led and a built in recharging system.
rekmeyata is offline  
Reply
Old 01-17-12 | 06:25 PM
  #61  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX area

Bikes: Trek 1420 triple, Mercier Corvus, Globe 1 700, Surly Disc Trucker, GT Avalanche, GT Grade, GT Helion, Mercier Corvus, Motobacane Boris X7 Fat Bikes,

Originally Posted by ronocnikral
I think you'll find a PBSF (or something similar) or two will get you through just about any rando event. reflective tape for the bike is not neccessary. fenders aren't required.
Too late! She is all taped up to the gills. It seemed to work on my Sunday ride (90 miles) I was out after dark and everything was avoiding me. That was with one Planet Bike blinky.

I take it PBSF is a Planet Bike Super Flash ?

Plan B then will be a . . .https://www.bikebagshop.com/busch-and...nt-p-1147.html

and a Blackburn mars 4 for on the rack bag https://shop.sunrisecyclery.com/item/40489/

Or something like that
Jamesw2 is offline  
Reply
Old 01-18-12 | 08:36 AM
  #62  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by rekmeyata
I find a lot wrong with what your saying. So far the reports have been that everyone has found a huge difference between the Radbot and the Hotshot; <snip>
Personally I think you have a hidden agenda against the HotShot and or Cygolite, maybe you work for Portland? If you do then simply up the ante and come out with the Radbot 2000 with a 2 watt LED, or go all out and surpass the Cygolite with a Radbot 3000 with a 3 watt led and a built in recharging system.
Wow.. just wow. I have no agenda against the Cygolite. I simply thought you might be interested in my feedback since you said you were contemplating one. Apparently, I was wrong.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-18-12 | 09:20 AM
  #63  
Glynis27's Avatar
Spinning @ 33 RPM
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 747
Likes: 3
From: NE Ohio

Bikes: '89 Fuji Saratoga, '97 Schwinn Mesa SS, '07 Felt F1X, '10 Transition TransAM, '11 Soma Analog SS

Originally Posted by chandltp
I bought the Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight. And as I said, even with the gloves off I have a hard time getting it turned on or off sometimes.
I also have a Hotshot 2w and will agree that the button is pretty terrible. I have gotten to the point where I can turn it on and off while wearing my lobster gloves, but it's not easy and I had to learn the trick. It's my only complaint with the light besides needing a different mount than my PBSF. However, the light is VERY bright and lasts a long time on a charge. I'd buy it again.
Glynis27 is offline  
Reply
Old 01-18-12 | 10:10 AM
  #64  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by Glynis27
I also have a Hotshot 2w and will agree that the button is pretty terrible. I have gotten to the point where I can turn it on and off while wearing my lobster gloves, but it's not easy and I had to learn the trick. It's my only complaint with the light besides needing a different mount than my PBSF. However, the light is VERY bright and lasts a long time on a charge. I'd buy it again.
I'm still practicing. I think the combination button makes it a bit harder. Since my bike lives in an unheated garage (and seems to get the wind in the morning), I try to avoid taking off my gloves much below 20°F. I don't know if the switch is fragile or just feels fragile, only time will tell I guess.

I am impressed with the battery capacity. It's been 3 weeks and I charged it because I felt like it should need it. I'd be a little more comfortable if it had a battery indicator or if I could carry a spare battery. It might get dimmer, but I just don't have a feel for how that will look yet. I'm sure this will get better once I get a feel for the light and I might feel comfortable on my morning low traffic rides with just this light.

As it is, I just run a backup in traffic, since either of my lights might have a problem mid-ride. I run 1 blinking and one steady.

This will be my blinking since I accidentally got the 3 mode (instead of the 5 mode) Radbot 1000 last time and the 3 mode doesn't have the nice slow blink that the 5 mode does.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-18-12 | 01:41 PM
  #65  
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

My Fave, Schmidt Dyno hub and wired tail lights, German also, so they don't blink.
you might add some battery backups, + maybe a Headlight on a headband,
to fix things that might break in the night, like punctures..
fietsbob is offline  
Reply
Old 01-18-12 | 02:03 PM
  #66  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by fietsbob
My Fave, Schmidt Dyno hub and wired tail lights, German also, so they don't blink.
you might add some battery backups, + maybe a Headlight on a headband,
to fix things that might break in the night, like punctures..
I looked into dyno hubs.. unfortunately I couldn't justify the cost on my winter beater. I do have a helmet light.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-18-12 | 02:40 PM
  #67  
Banned
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
Likes: 1,380
From: NW,Oregon Coast

Bikes: 8

There are lesser-cost hubs from like shimano..
as well then a cheaper wheel, built in a machine, around them.
Planet Bike has a wired to the hub , LED handlebar light that is cheap too.
fietsbob is offline  
Reply
Old 01-18-12 | 04:12 PM
  #68  
wahoonc's Avatar
Membership Not Required
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16,853
Likes: 18
From: On the road-USA

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Originally Posted by chandltp
I looked into dyno hubs.. unfortunately I couldn't justify the cost on my winter beater. I do have a helmet light.
$40 usd for a Sanyo hub. I have one laying on my work bench waiting to get laced into a wheel. The rim and spokes are going to add another $47 to the price. So for under a c-note I have permanent power. I could have reused the old rim and saved $30 or so, but the old rim is showing it's age and the brake tracks are getting concave...

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Reply
Old 01-19-12 | 06:58 AM
  #69  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by wahoonc
$40 usd for a Sanyo hub. I have one laying on my work bench waiting to get laced into a wheel. The rim and spokes are going to add another $47 to the price. So for under a c-note I have permanent power. I could have reused the old rim and saved $30 or so, but the old rim is showing it's age and the brake tracks are getting concave...
That's not bad. How do they hold up to salt? I'm just really cheap when it comes to bikes, especially ones that will get trashed from salt.

Most of my winter bikes have less than $20 in them, unless it's something transferable, like fenders and lights. I hadn't considered the idea of re-using the hub on subsequent bikes and just buying new spokes.

Although I'd have to try my hand at wheel building to keep the cost down. I'm assuming they aren't the same size as my existing front hub, so I can't re-use spokes (yea, I realize I shouldn't anyway).
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-19-12 | 07:18 AM
  #70  
wahoonc's Avatar
Membership Not Required
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16,853
Likes: 18
From: On the road-USA

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Originally Posted by chandltp
That's not bad. How do they hold up to salt? I'm just really cheap when it comes to bikes, especially ones that will get trashed from salt.

Most of my winter bikes have less than $20 in them, unless it's something transferable, like fenders and lights. I hadn't considered the idea of re-using the hub on subsequent bikes and just buying new spokes.

Although I'd have to try my hand at wheel building to keep the cost down. I'm assuming they aren't the same size as my existing front hub, so I can't re-use spokes (yea, I realize I shouldn't anyway).
Dunno about the salt aspect of it, but at $40 it is almost disposable. The only salt I see is when I go to the beach in the summer , they do "pre-treat" roads around here with brine, but that means I don't ride for a couple of days. Nothing against the road conditions, just the road users.

I know of at least one person using it on a commuter and another for rando use. Both of them like the hub and have no complaints. My intended use is on a tour bike as a power supply for electronics.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Reply
Old 01-19-12 | 09:18 AM
  #71  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by wahoonc
Dunno about the salt aspect of it, but at $40 it is almost disposable. The only salt I see is when I go to the beach in the summer , they do "pre-treat" roads around here with brine, but that means I don't ride for a couple of days. Nothing against the road conditions, just the road users.
Well, if it holds up for the life of the bike (2 -3 years with little cleaning), then yes it probably could be disposable. I don't know enough to know if they change connections for the lights or not (since the lights are the expensive part it seems). If they don't, then it could work. Although the front wheel seems to have relatively little abuse in the winter, so assuming I stick with a 26" wheel, I could just move it between bikes as they get replaced.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-19-12 | 09:40 AM
  #72  
wahoonc's Avatar
Membership Not Required
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16,853
Likes: 18
From: On the road-USA

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Originally Posted by chandltp
Well, if it holds up for the life of the bike (2 -3 years with little cleaning), then yes it probably could be disposable. I don't know enough to know if they change connections for the lights or not (since the lights are the expensive part it seems). If they don't, then it could work. Although the front wheel seems to have relatively little abuse in the winter, so assuming I stick with a 26" wheel, I could just move it between bikes as they get replaced.
All lights I have dealt with come with a pigtail and/or slip connector. Then you run a two strand wire down to the dyno hub plug. I use wire from old electronics chargers, it is already color coded and FREE! On a couple of bikes I added water resistant quick disconnects up near the light.

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon
wahoonc is offline  
Reply
Old 01-19-12 | 12:08 PM
  #73  
chandltp's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA

Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others

Originally Posted by wahoonc
All lights I have dealt with come with a pigtail and/or slip connector. Then you run a two strand wire down to the dyno hub plug. I use wire from old electronics chargers, it is already color coded and FREE! On a couple of bikes I added water resistant quick disconnects up near the light.
I guess that makes this something to look into. Although I might try it on my summer bike this year, since I'll either have to buy more batteries or a dyno hub.
chandltp is offline  
Reply
Old 01-19-12 | 12:24 PM
  #74  
wahoonc's Avatar
Membership Not Required
 
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16,853
Likes: 18
From: On the road-USA

Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG

Originally Posted by chandltp
I guess that makes this something to look into. Although I might try it on my summer bike this year, since I'll either have to buy more batteries or a dyno hub.
Don't remember the last time I bought batteries for lights. I went dyno (hub, bottle and BB) a few years back, best thing I have EVER done. Current crop of bikes with lights is around 12. I use everything from a 1956 Sturmey Archer Dynohub pushing an OEM incandescent that would be outdone by a large firefly, all the way up to a brand new Sturmey Archer XL-FDD that is pushing the newest Lumotec Cyo from B&M, but may get replaced with the new Phillips 60 lux

My Planet Bike Super Flashes are the only battery powered lights I have left. I haven't had to replace any batteries in them yet. If and when I do, I will steal the ones out of the TV remote and let my wife worry about it...

Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"
_Nicodemus

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
_krazygluon

Last edited by wahoonc; 01-19-12 at 01:13 PM.
wahoonc is offline  
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vol
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets
0
10-13-13 03:10 PM
cehowardGS
Advocacy & Safety
66
02-19-13 04:34 PM
Aushiker
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets
0
01-13-12 09:31 AM
Leebo
Commuting
67
12-05-11 08:39 PM
MileHighMark
Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets
0
01-26-11 10:34 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.