multiple tail lights
#26
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
I don't even use any reflectors on my bike, I do have reflective leg bands, reflective tape on the helmet, seat bag has a reflective ribbon going around it, and if I'm wearing my jacket there's reflective piping on it; but I do not count on my reflectors, I count on my lights.
I don't rely on those, but consider them to be additive to the lights. In this case, my light was failing me and and I'm not sure how my reflective material was performing.
#27
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
While I'll admit that's a really bright light, I don't like the separate battery bag or the cost. The RadBot 1000 is supposed to be as bright as a car tail light, and based on the one I have, it is plenty bright enough. The two will be for redundancy.
#28
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,953
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Actually the new Cygolite Hotshot is brighter then the RadBot, as is the Light and Motion Vis 180. I haven't seen any comparison of the HotShot vs the Vis 180 because the Hotshot is to new yet.
#29
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
Unless I'm missing something, they have short run times and I can't change batteries mid-ride.
#30
For good perceptibility, pulsing backlights will be irritatingly more visible and run a lot longer. Put them on tip of "safety sticks"(*) right and left, and you're done. Those sticks wobble and bounce as you go, making the pulsing lights even more visible.
(*) Horizontally mounted flimsy flagsticks of around 1 meter, to keep passing cars away.
(*) Horizontally mounted flimsy flagsticks of around 1 meter, to keep passing cars away.
#31
your god hates me



Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,893
Likes: 3,512
Bikes: 2016 Richard Sachs, 2010 Carl Strong, 2006 Cannondale Synapse
For this reason, I try to use a combination of steady & blinking lights: Blinking so I can be "irritatingly" visible, and steady so they can figure out how far they are from the irritatingly visible guy and not run him over.
#32
There's a pretty sizeable & vocal contingent of cycling activists who will tell you that an oncoming driver's depth perception is less accurate when fixating on a flashing light; it's much easier for cars to judge their distance from you when your light is always on, not blinking.
For this reason, I try to use a combination of steady & blinking lights: Blinking so I can be "irritatingly" visible, and steady so they can figure out how far they are from the irritatingly visible guy and not run him over.
For this reason, I try to use a combination of steady & blinking lights: Blinking so I can be "irritatingly" visible, and steady so they can figure out how far they are from the irritatingly visible guy and not run him over.
Seriously, I have no problem assessing the range of a taillight like a SuperFlash at distances approaching 1/2 mile. I can't see through anyone else's eyes, but is it really a problem for any of you? By the time I'm anywhere close, I've already been watching them for quite a while, it's not like WHOA, ALL OF A SUDDEN HE IS ONLY 100 FEET AWAY, HOW ON EARTH DID HE GET THERE?!?!1
Guess I should add that in my firsthand experience riding divided 4-lane highways, people see my all-blinking bike and change to the left lane at long range, like >1/4 mile. I even have some video footage demonstrating that. Getting noticed trumps everything else, IMO:
At about 1/2 mile out (about halfway through the video), if my lights weren't flashing, I think many overtaking motorists would not conciously take note of them. And that's the range where a semi driver would probably start assessing his zones to make a lane change and stay away from me.
Last edited by mechBgon; 12-23-11 at 02:44 PM.
#33
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX area
Bikes: Trek 1420 triple, Mercier Corvus, Globe 1 700, Surly Disc Trucker, GT Avalanche, GT Grade, GT Helion, Mercier Corvus, Motobacane Boris X7 Fat Bikes,
One of the rules for doing Randonneurs is that the bike needs to have a fender mounted taillight. For my application i.e. Fender mount, steady state and to comply with the reflector rule most states have PDW Radbot 1000 rear light narrows my options I also like using a rear light during the day
From the RAO Rule book
From the RAO Rule book
- Bicycles ridden at night must be equipped with a front light visible and operating from 100 meters (300ft.) and steady-state (not-blinking) rear red light or incandescent red light visible from 150 meters (500ft.).
- Reflective tape or plastic reflectors must be installed on the back of pedals, cranks, seat stays, wheels, and forks.
- Night riding shall be considered that time of day between 7:00PM and 6:00AM and at any time when automobiles would normally have their headlights on. If you have any doubt about the visibility conditions, operate as if it is night time.
#34
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,138
Likes: 324
Bikes: 2 many
#35
One of the rules for doing Randonneurs is that the bike needs to have a fender mounted taillight. For my application i.e. Fender mount, steady state and to comply with the reflector rule most states have PDW Radbot 1000 rear light narrows my options I also like using a rear light during the day
From the RAO Rule book
From the RAO Rule book
- Bicycles ridden at night must be equipped with a front light visible and operating from 100 meters (300ft.) and steady-state (not-blinking) rear red light or incandescent red light visible from 150 meters (500ft.).
- Reflective tape or plastic reflectors must be installed on the back of pedals, cranks, seat stays, wheels, and forks.
- Night riding shall be considered that time of day between 7:00PM and 6:00AM and at any time when automobiles would normally have their headlights on. If you have any doubt about the visibility conditions, operate as if it is night time.
As a practical alternative, consider the Planet Bike BRT-5, which is a legit reflector and reasonably good light with better runtime.
#36
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX area
Bikes: Trek 1420 triple, Mercier Corvus, Globe 1 700, Surly Disc Trucker, GT Avalanche, GT Grade, GT Helion, Mercier Corvus, Motobacane Boris X7 Fat Bikes,
So ! Thats a WMD ? Luminous, luminary, luminosity and the individual lumen all represented in the photo. Kinda like a day at the beach watching Jaws
#37
Galveston County Texas
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 33,335
Likes: 1,285
From: In The Wind
Bikes: 02 GTO, 2011 Magnum
Given that the decent blinking rear lights will get noticed from vast distances even in daylight, I find the hypothetical depth-perception benefit (if it really existed) is a moot point. Getting on the radar early, before they resume looking down at the text message they're composing on their cell phone, is the main concern, and that's best done with blinking mode 
Seriously, I have no problem assessing the range of a taillight like a SuperFlash at distances approaching 1/2 mile. I can't see through anyone else's eyes, but is it really a problem for any of you? By the time I'm anywhere close, I've already been watching them for quite a while, it's not like WHOA, ALL OF A SUDDEN HE IS ONLY 100 FEET AWAY, HOW ON EARTH DID HE GET THERE?!?!1
Guess I should add that in my firsthand experience riding divided 4-lane highways, people see my all-blinking bike and change to the left lane at long range, like >1/4 mile. I even have some video footage demonstrating that. Getting noticed trumps everything else, IMO:
At about 1/2 mile out (about halfway through the video), if my lights weren't flashing, I think many overtaking motorists would not conciously take note of them. And that's the range where a semi driver would probably start assessing his zones to make a lane change and stay away from me.
Seriously, I have no problem assessing the range of a taillight like a SuperFlash at distances approaching 1/2 mile. I can't see through anyone else's eyes, but is it really a problem for any of you? By the time I'm anywhere close, I've already been watching them for quite a while, it's not like WHOA, ALL OF A SUDDEN HE IS ONLY 100 FEET AWAY, HOW ON EARTH DID HE GET THERE?!?!1
Guess I should add that in my firsthand experience riding divided 4-lane highways, people see my all-blinking bike and change to the left lane at long range, like >1/4 mile. I even have some video footage demonstrating that. Getting noticed trumps everything else, IMO:
At about 1/2 mile out (about halfway through the video), if my lights weren't flashing, I think many overtaking motorists would not conciously take note of them. And that's the range where a semi driver would probably start assessing his zones to make a lane change and stay away from me.
__________________
Fred "The Real Fred"
Fred "The Real Fred"
#38
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX area
Bikes: Trek 1420 triple, Mercier Corvus, Globe 1 700, Surly Disc Trucker, GT Avalanche, GT Grade, GT Helion, Mercier Corvus, Motobacane Boris X7 Fat Bikes,
From what i can tell the BRT-5 mounts on the rack . Yes i will use that on the rack but it doesn't work on the fender
OK! I found a review https://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2010/0...ot-review.html
One screw to loosen to change batteries . I like that idea at least until i need to change batteries in the rain
Last edited by Jamesw2; 12-23-11 at 05:49 PM. Reason: added text and link
#39
cyclepath
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 3,550
Likes: 1
From: "The Last Best Place"
Bikes: 2005 Trek Pilot 5.0, 2001 Specialized Sirrus Pro, Kona Lava Dome, Raleigh hardtail converted to commuter, 87 Takara steel road bike, 2008 Trek Soho
#40
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX area
Bikes: Trek 1420 triple, Mercier Corvus, Globe 1 700, Surly Disc Trucker, GT Avalanche, GT Grade, GT Helion, Mercier Corvus, Motobacane Boris X7 Fat Bikes,
#41
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 816
Likes: 1
From: Houston TX area
Bikes: Trek 1420 triple, Mercier Corvus, Globe 1 700, Surly Disc Trucker, GT Avalanche, GT Grade, GT Helion, Mercier Corvus, Motobacane Boris X7 Fat Bikes,
#42
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,953
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
If you leave the Cygolite on steady it will burn for 4.5 hours, on flash it will run for 300 hours...so how long do you ride in one night? for 300 hours? The L & M one will only burn for 4 hours on high and 8 hours on pulse...again, how long do you need it for in one night? Both of those lights are rechargable, so you plug into a USB port and charge it after every use. That doesn't seem that complicated to me. It sounds like you ride 8 to 10 hours straight at night, do you live in Alaska?
Last edited by rekmeyata; 12-23-11 at 11:25 PM.
#43
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
If you leave the Cygolite on steady it will burn for 4.5 hours, on flash it will run for 300 hours...so how long do you ride in one night? for 300 hours? The L & M one will only burn for 4 hours on high and 8 hours on pulse...again, how long do you need it for in one night? Both of those lights are rechargable, so you plug into a USB port and charge it after every use. That doesn't seem that complicated to me.
As for how much I ride at night, that's not really the point. When I get on or off the bike, I like leaving all my equipment as is. If riding a bike becomes a big inconvenience, I'm going to be inclined to buy a car again. When I get home from work, I don't want to take of 3 lights, take them in, charge them, and have to put them back on the bike later that night or in the morning.
I want to use them until they start to get dim and replace the batteries. Most of the time that would be somewhere that I could charge them, but on occasion that would not be the case. Without a battery indicator, sometimes it sneaks up on you.
On secondary bikes, when I go out and find out the tail light is dead I don't want to have to charge it before I can ride it.
That being said, I have added the Cygolite to my Amazon wish list and I may buy it as a replacement for the light that clips on my trunk bag. That would be a 3rd light and replace the relative dim wal-mart blinky I have now as a secondary. The L&M is just to expensive for a single tail light for me, when I really want redundancy.
#44
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
As a side note, here's what my reflective devices look like on camera:


I guess the rain might have been causing issues, but at least in the dry on camera, it looks pretty good. Still adding more active lighting though.
And yes, I wore a Santa hat riding to work last week.


I guess the rain might have been causing issues, but at least in the dry on camera, it looks pretty good. Still adding more active lighting though.
And yes, I wore a Santa hat riding to work last week.
#45
Membership Not Required
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 16,853
Likes: 18
From: On the road-USA
Bikes: Giant Excursion, Raleigh Sports, Raleigh R.S.W. Compact, Motobecane? and about 20 more! OMG
One of the rules for doing Randonneurs is that the bike needs to have a fender mounted taillight. For my application i.e. Fender mount, steady state and to comply with the reflector rule most states have PDW Radbot 1000 rear light narrows my options I also like using a rear light during the day
From the RAO Rule book
From the RAO Rule book
- Bicycles ridden at night must be equipped with a front light visible and operating from 100 meters (300ft.) and steady-state (not-blinking) rear red light or incandescent red light visible from 150 meters (500ft.).
- Reflective tape or plastic reflectors must be installed on the back of pedals, cranks, seat stays, wheels, and forks.
- Night riding shall be considered that time of day between 7:00PM and 6:00AM and at any time when automobiles would normally have their headlights on. If you have any doubt about the visibility conditions, operate as if it is night time.
Aaron
__________________
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#46
Firstly, exposure settings on the camera can essentially turn night into day, and make a barely visible taillight look like a spaceship-destroying laser gun. Secondly, camera flash, being a very compact source of strong light located very close to the lens, will exaggerate the apparent effectiveness of reflectors far beyond anything that will happen in real-life situation.
Your pictures are good for illustrating the layout of your reflective setup. They are not in any way representative of its effectiveness.
#47
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,953
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
On the Cygolite, the I misread the runtimes.
As for how much I ride at night, that's not really the point. When I get on or off the bike, I like leaving all my equipment as is. If riding a bike becomes a big inconvenience, I'm going to be inclined to buy a car again. When I get home from work, I don't want to take of 3 lights, take them in, charge them, and have to put them back on the bike later that night or in the morning.
I want to use them until they start to get dim and replace the batteries. Most of the time that would be somewhere that I could charge them, but on occasion that would not be the case. Without a battery indicator, sometimes it sneaks up on you.
On secondary bikes, when I go out and find out the tail light is dead I don't want to have to charge it before I can ride it.
T
As for how much I ride at night, that's not really the point. When I get on or off the bike, I like leaving all my equipment as is. If riding a bike becomes a big inconvenience, I'm going to be inclined to buy a car again. When I get home from work, I don't want to take of 3 lights, take them in, charge them, and have to put them back on the bike later that night or in the morning.
I want to use them until they start to get dim and replace the batteries. Most of the time that would be somewhere that I could charge them, but on occasion that would not be the case. Without a battery indicator, sometimes it sneaks up on you.
On secondary bikes, when I go out and find out the tail light is dead I don't want to have to charge it before I can ride it.
T
I would think riding a bike waiting for lights to dim to change bats is just as inconvenient as unclipping a couple of lights and recharging them. My tail lights I have right now do not have a built in recharger, so I have not only unclip my lights but then take the bats out and put them in a charger! I do carry back up bats like you because sometimes I forget to charge them up, but I've only ran out of battery once on a ride in 40 years so really I don't ever use the backup bats. The other problem with waiting till bats dim is sometimes they dim without you knowing it while riding, then suddenly your riding around without a tail light or a very dim and thus useless light. Running out of bat on a ride is the second reason why I also use several tail lights, in case one goes dead and I'm not aware of it, the others are still functioning. I would think based on having to keep purchasing batteries and replacing them and maybe having one go dead on a ride it would be more convenient to be able to charge them up every night...but that's just me because I currently have to remove my lights, then the bats to recharge so by just having to remove the lights and plug in would be great, in my opinion.
#48
Senior Member

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,953
Likes: 387
From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
The way anything "looks on a camera" is not even a remotely good approximation of how it will look to a person (a driver).
Firstly, exposure settings on the camera can essentially turn night into day, and make a barely visible taillight look like a spaceship-destroying laser gun. Secondly, camera flash, being a very compact source of strong light located very close to the lens, will exaggerate the apparent effectiveness of reflectors far beyond anything that will happen in real-life situation.
Your pictures are good for illustrating the layout of your reflective setup. They are not in any way representative of its effectiveness.
Firstly, exposure settings on the camera can essentially turn night into day, and make a barely visible taillight look like a spaceship-destroying laser gun. Secondly, camera flash, being a very compact source of strong light located very close to the lens, will exaggerate the apparent effectiveness of reflectors far beyond anything that will happen in real-life situation.
Your pictures are good for illustrating the layout of your reflective setup. They are not in any way representative of its effectiveness.
#49
Guest

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,768
Likes: 6
From: Grid Reference, SK
Bikes: I never learned to ride a bike. It is my deepest shame.
A few thoughts about the cyclist with 18 rear blinkies:
1: If he ever gets hit from behind it probably wasn't an accident.
2: I use discount-store AAAs that cost ~ 1.97 CAD for 18 of them, and I get about 3 or 4 months of run time out of my blinkies with them. If I had 18 blinkies that take on average 3 AAA batteries each, it would cost me between 18 and 24 dollars per year.
3: I would bet you get some funky patterns as all those lights goes in and out of synch over time.
1: If he ever gets hit from behind it probably wasn't an accident.
2: I use discount-store AAAs that cost ~ 1.97 CAD for 18 of them, and I get about 3 or 4 months of run time out of my blinkies with them. If I had 18 blinkies that take on average 3 AAA batteries each, it would cost me between 18 and 24 dollars per year.
3: I would bet you get some funky patterns as all those lights goes in and out of synch over time.
#50
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,771
Likes: 0
From: Erie, PA
Bikes: Bacchetta Giro 20, Trek 7000, old Huffy MTB, and a few others
Yes, I should have indicated that I understood that in the first place. I have intended on having my wife follow me at some point and see what things look like, but it's just never happened. Not that it matters, because I'm doing the best I can at this point with reflectivity.





