I stopped into a LBS, I'm somewhat considering a new pavement/trail bike for many reasons. I'm going into just one reason here. A sales guy said that new frames these days are more flexible (he had a different term, but I forget the exact word, sorry). He said that today's bike frames can better absorb the jarring effects of rides. But reading some blog posts online, some are saying that aluminum is not softer than steel in terms of ride comfort.

I've updated my old (rigid fork) 1991 Giant Rincon mtn bike with (what I think is) Ergon GP2 grips. Maybe it helped some, but longer rides still twinge the nerves in my hands quit a bit. The pain at the base of my hand near the thumb attachment area can last for days now. If you haven't gathered yet, I'm no longer young; I have already lived over half a healthy man's normal lifespan. Crap.

Back to the LBS. Will this flexibility of a modern (carbon is not in my budget) Trek/Giant frame on a multipurpose bike (DS/Roam) really aid in reducing the hand twinge discomfort from riding 20-30 miles on roadways? Is there such a flexibility in a $400-600 Trek/Giant?

Thanks for reading.

The word was probably compliant. So as we're discussing in several threads, the material isn't as important as the geometry but the best way to get a bike comfortable is to lower the air pressure. From what I'm gathering on the type of bike you are looking at, the tire size should be pretty good size and will allow you to run a more comfortable air pressure.

Does your bike fit you well? You may just need to adjust your handlebar position. Maybe even the saddle. How high are your bars compared to your saddle? Do you feel like you're stretched out too far when you reach for the grips? Do you do any body core exercises?

Another option is new handlebars with more "sweep". Or a shorter/taller stem. This will bring the grips closer to you, taking some of the weight off your hands.

In general, aluminum is stiffer than steel, and bike frames made from larger-diameter aluminum tubing can be more rigid than steel frames. (They certainly do seem to have that reputation.) But like knobster pointed out, good design can yield a compliant frame from steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, and other materials.

I don't have any medical training, but that sounds like it may be some sort of nerve impingement, possibly of the median nerve. Carpal tunnel syndrome, which affects the median nerve, primarily affects the palm side of the thumb as well as the index & middle fingers. The first order of business, in my untrained opinion, is to see a doctor. If you know what the ailment is, it'll be easier to find appropriate treatment.

Some general suggestions, though... Your pedal/saddle/handlebar positioning affects your position and weight distribution on the bike. Make sure you're not positioned such that you've got too much weight on your hands. Also, maybe you could make use of different handlebars or bar ends to gain additional hand positions. Something like a trekking bar would allow you to shift your hands once in a while to reduce fatigue.

I think that there's a good chance a new bike, on its own, won't alleviate the problem. A new bike might be helpful if you identify the source of the problem and buy a bike to address whatever fit or comfort issues you might have with your current one.

Take your current bike to the same LBS and ask them to put your bike on the trainer there. Ride for a few minutes while the staff looks at your riding position. That will tell you more about how to correct the issues.

Also, +1 on seeing an orthopedist who focuses on sports injuries and hands, specifically. Every region/city has several of these. Figure out what the medical/structural cause of your injury is, and then trace that back to the bike riding position that you currently have.

My guess is that the bike type and fit are both incorrect for you. But that's a guess...

You have many options to correct your problem. If it's just a fit issue, then you might be able to make your current bike work. Might be.

I'm assuming you have a straight bar. I'm 53 and have had hand issues a few years ago. two of my bikes have drop bars for more hand positions. For my straight bar bike I added bar ends for multiple hand positions, and eventually an aero bar. I use pipe insulation on my bars, (the foamy type, not the rubbery insulation) and black duct tape to hold it in place. It compacts down after a ride or two and is not as ungainly as it would seem. I have ridden for hours with this setup and no hand issues. When I bought a new drop-bar bike recently, I took my first couple of commutes without the padding. I was fine for a half-hour and then my hands started to ache despite changing positions. The insulation cured that.

About the time I noticed my hands were giving me problems I was playing softball and tried putting Dr. Scholl gel-style heel pads in my batting gloves. I then began putting them in my biking gloves. That worked, but was not as comfortable as the foam. I haven't played softball in a while, but I'm sure they wouldn't allow pipe insulation on the bat.

Ultimately I suppose a recumbentwould relieve most of the pressure on one's hands.

Thanks all for your replies.

Yes, the word used at the LBS was "compliant." Are all frames these days "compliant," or just the frames on $1,500 bikes? I've noticed that the shape of frames at the higher end are much different from the $400-$1,000 bikes. Although, my financial budget and quantity of riding probably would not justify such an expense above $700. My 1991 Rincon is a basic triangular frame, the upper bar is nearly perfectly horizontal, like the road bikes of that era I suppose.

Yes, I suppose I can take my existing bike in and see if they can give us a sizing evaluation. In response to the comfort questions, I really do not feel discomfort riding if I was comfortable before the riding. I've had some minor lower back problems, but those have gone away for most of the past 10 years. Plus, damaged/missing cartilage in one ankle (I'm post surgery 5 years) can aggravate the ankle, but cycling is a much better option for me with the ankle than doing long walks in running shoes. I have not felt that my bars are too far or too close. The bars are maybe an inch lower than the seat (bike is hanging in the garage, it's below zero this morning), that is a rough site judgement from the ground. I'll admit I do not do much core work for the past several years (about 4 years since I followed a routine).

Thanks.

unless you have a medical issue it is not likely that the frame material is causing your problem, and it is unlikely that a more "compliant" bike will solve that problem... it sounds more like a fit issue.

A quality suspension seat post, like Cane Creek's Thudbuster makes for a comfortable Backside.

they have a variety of elastomer densities to adjust their motion to the rider's weight.


I have Ergon grips . on my Folding Bike .. you may want to add padded Palm Gloves to your Kit.

On longer rides , consider taking more breaks Off the bike, Particularly when you hands say 'I've had enough'..