Pain in palms....
#1
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Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 5
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From: South Texas
Bikes: Trek FX 7.1
Pain in palms....
Hello everyone. I just started cycling regularly about two weeks ago; and this past weekend I picked up a Trek FX 7.1 from my local bike shop. The guy at the shop adjusted the bike for me before l left. What I have noticed, in the 4 or 5 days since I bought it, is that I get a pain in my palms after about 10 to 15 mins on the bike... most of my outings have been in the 3 to 6 mile range, as i'm quite out of shape and have build up my endurance... I'm considering buying gloves; not sure if this discomfort is a normal part of getting used to the bike. It never gets unbearable, but certainly distracts from the bike ride. I do have to occasionally stop and rest my hands for a few seconds.
I do have a spare mountain bike handlebar, which would put the grips about 1" higher... but I felt such a minor difference may not be worth it...
Any advice or suggestions?
I do have a spare mountain bike handlebar, which would put the grips about 1" higher... but I felt such a minor difference may not be worth it...
Any advice or suggestions?
#3
Yeah, that sounds familiar. It's not just getting used to the bike -- it's a common complaint. Ergon GP5 grips and gloves have done wonders for me. The grips are a bit "expensive" but it's a worthwhile investment.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,105
Likes: 4
From: Middelbury, Vermont
Bikes: Giant Escape 1
I agree with this remedy. I use both grips and gloves. Another thing to consider would be to add bar ends to give your hands a few extra positions. Also, as you ride more, you'll find ways to alter your grip on the bars to reduce hand fatigue. Finally, try to ride without putting a lot of weight on your hands. This may mean altering your seat and/or handlebar. It may mean strengthening the core. Try riding one-handed for short stretches (practice with each hand). It's a good way to increase core balance.
#6
Effectively, that would do the same thing as putting on the mtb riser bar you referred to earlier. Here's my suggestion: go back to the beginning. Let's assume you don't have issues with carpal tunnel, and that you are not 'death-gripping' the bars -- a common thing. If you are doing the latter, stop doing so and see if things improve. If not, then your first step should be to think about your fit on your bike. A simple test: ride around for a while then pedal in a straight line in your normal position and lift your hands just lightly/slightly off the bars. Do you feel yourself falling forward? If so, your fit on the bike is wrong, and this is putting excess weight on your hands.
Try, and then report back!
Try, and then report back!
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 5
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From: South Texas
Bikes: Trek FX 7.1
Effectively, that would do the same thing as putting on the mtb riser bar you referred to earlier. Here's my suggestion: go back to the beginning. Let's assume you don't have issues with carpal tunnel, and that you are not 'death-gripping' the bars -- a common thing. If you are doing the latter, stop doing so and see if things improve. If not, then your first step should be to think about your fit on your bike. A simple test: ride around for a while then pedal in a straight line in your normal position and lift your hands just lightly/slightly off the bars. Do you feel yourself falling forward? If so, your fit on the bike is wrong, and this is putting excess weight on your hands.
Try, and then report back!
Try, and then report back!
I have to say I have actualy tried this... but wrote off the 'falling forward' feeling to inexperience and getting used to a new bike... thats why I was thinking raising the handlebars might help
#8
Raising the bars can help, but that then is at the expense of efficiency (pedalling power, and wind resistance). So, you might want to look first at saddle position. Roughly, like this to start.
1. Saddle should be dead level, and centred on its rails (i.e. the seatpost clamp should be in the middle of the rails).
2. On the bike, your saddle should be high enough so that when you put your heel on the 'down' pedal, it should touch just firmly enough to allow you to spin the pedals backwards (with heels on pedals) without coming off. Then, when you put your feet in normal position you'll have about the right bend in the knee.
3. Try riding. Reach to the grips should be comfortable, allowing you to ride naturally with a slight bend at the elbow, and you shouldn't feel like you are falling forward.
4. If your arms are 'locked out', you need a slightly shorter stem. Don't adjust reach by moving the saddle forward/backward. If your arms are fine, but you still feel like you are falling forward, move the saddle back just a little -- about 5 mm -- and/or tilt the nose of the saddle up very slightly, and try again.
5. Play around with it -- see what happens.
1. Saddle should be dead level, and centred on its rails (i.e. the seatpost clamp should be in the middle of the rails).
2. On the bike, your saddle should be high enough so that when you put your heel on the 'down' pedal, it should touch just firmly enough to allow you to spin the pedals backwards (with heels on pedals) without coming off. Then, when you put your feet in normal position you'll have about the right bend in the knee.
3. Try riding. Reach to the grips should be comfortable, allowing you to ride naturally with a slight bend at the elbow, and you shouldn't feel like you are falling forward.
4. If your arms are 'locked out', you need a slightly shorter stem. Don't adjust reach by moving the saddle forward/backward. If your arms are fine, but you still feel like you are falling forward, move the saddle back just a little -- about 5 mm -- and/or tilt the nose of the saddle up very slightly, and try again.
5. Play around with it -- see what happens.
#9
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 5
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From: South Texas
Bikes: Trek FX 7.1
Thanks everyone for your advice. After trying various adjustments, and talking to my local bike shop, I ended up installing a 3" stem riser, and buying some bontrager gloves. I must say it was a huge difference! The 'falling forward' feeling is completely gone; and in a brief 30 minute ride this evening, I had no discomfort at all. Looking forward to more enjoyable riding now
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,066
Likes: 1
From: still above ground
Bikes: 2016 Specialized crosstrail comp disc
Thanks everyone for your advice. After trying various adjustments, and talking to my local bike shop, I ended up installing a 3" stem riser, and buying some bontrager gloves. I must say it was a huge difference! The 'falling forward' feeling is completely gone; and in a brief 30 minute ride this evening, I had no discomfort at all. Looking forward to more enjoyable riding now 

#11
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,177
Likes: 347
From: Nashville, TN.
Bikes: 2020 Specialized Roubaix Comp SC - 2016 Specialized Roubaix SL4 - 2015 Giant Roam 2 Disc
Effectively, that would do the same thing as putting on the mtb riser bar you referred to earlier. Here's my suggestion: go back to the beginning. Let's assume you don't have issues with carpal tunnel, and that you are not 'death-gripping' the bars -- a common thing. If you are doing the latter, stop doing so and see if things improve. If not, then your first step should be to think about your fit on your bike. A simple test: ride around for a while then pedal in a straight line in your normal position and lift your hands just lightly/slightly off the bars. Do you feel yourself falling forward? If so, your fit on the bike is wrong, and this is putting excess weight on your hands.
Try, and then report back!
Try, and then report back!
Last edited by one4smoke; 08-22-15 at 10:08 AM.
#12
From a newbie's perspective, can you explain the "falling forward" theory to me? It seems to me (unless you have a bike where you are sitting perfectly upright) the angle which a rider is on a bike ...it would be impossible not to fall forward toward the handlebars. Seems as if gravity and the laws of physics would dictate this is what happens. Can you explain a bit more in detail?
White explains the basic concept, along with others, and explains very clearly how bike fit is a series of compromises. The OP clearly had a problem involving excess weight on his hands/arms when riding -- usually the result of one or more of three things: saddle too forward/body out of balance in relation to the bottom bracket; too much reach to the bars; not enough core strength to maintain the position he was in.
He chose one solution: to raise the bars a considerable amount, thus placing himself in a more upright position and consequently putting his body back into balance. Sound like it worked! But, he inevitably pays a price: increased aerodynamic resistance, and decreased pedalling efficiency (muscle recruitment). That's how it goes in cycling!
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 764
Likes: 5
From: Long Beach
Bikes: Fitz randonneuse, Trek Superfly/AL, Tsunami SS, Bacchetta, HPV Speed Machine, Rans Screamer
Falling forward means you are sliding forward out of the saddle, and/or you can't easily support the weight of your torso using the strength of your back and legs.
So if you keep sliding forward in your saddle, your hands have to push back.
The stronger you are, the more you need to lean forward to counter the driving force of your legs. So as you gain fitness, you tend to support less weight with your hands, and need to lower your position so you don't wind up pulling on the handlebars constantly.
This is why people think you need to lean forward to be efficient and aero, but that isn't true until you have the strength to match. This also applies to the intensity of effort you will be making. Even a fit person will sit more upright on a bike that is for slow cruising, and lean forward on a touring bike where they will be going slow in spite of big efforts.
So if you keep sliding forward in your saddle, your hands have to push back.
The stronger you are, the more you need to lean forward to counter the driving force of your legs. So as you gain fitness, you tend to support less weight with your hands, and need to lower your position so you don't wind up pulling on the handlebars constantly.
This is why people think you need to lean forward to be efficient and aero, but that isn't true until you have the strength to match. This also applies to the intensity of effort you will be making. Even a fit person will sit more upright on a bike that is for slow cruising, and lean forward on a touring bike where they will be going slow in spite of big efforts.
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