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Old 12-14-15 | 03:38 AM
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upgrade or sell up?

Hi All,

currently own this

Pinnacle Lithium Three 2014 Hybrid Bike | Evans Cycles

overall quite pleased with the bike, owned for about 10 months, only mods are some Tioga bar ends, however I am now wanting to go a little faster on the road.

I am now in 2 minds..... do I/can I mod the current bike or sell up and get another bike?

Will thinner tyres (something like these but in 700x28c Continental Grand Prix 4 Season 700C Folding Duraskin Road Tyre - OE | Evans Cycles), changing to a flat bar and flipping/lowering the stem make much difference to the overall performance?

The other choice would be be changing to a CX bike.

Any advice on possible upgrades for the hybrid would be great!
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Old 12-14-15 | 07:55 AM
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Tires can make a big difference IMHO - the trade off is traction though - I put 28C "near" slicks on my Crossroads once / I gained about 1.5 mph / and took them off 2 weeks later because of several near wipe-outs plus the fact they reduced the options of where I could ride. Similarly switching to me heaviest treaded winter tires 40C really slows it down but gives much more traction.

Yes those look like a good tire choice to pick up some speed and still have some winter traction. Worth a try.
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Old 12-14-15 | 08:56 AM
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Looks like a nice bike. Changing wheels and or tires is the biggest single improvement you can make, also most $. Confirm but looks to me like your rims are 17mm inside so according to Tire Sizing Systems 28mm tires will fit. I'd do a search to see what people are using. Way different ride.
Your crank's biggest gear is 42, for probably $50 you could get taller gears, maybe a 48.
Flipping the stem would get you down more, less windage, better power, if it's comfortable.

and welcome!
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Old 12-14-15 | 10:31 AM
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If possible, get a road bike to go with that bike. Bikes cannot be all things, although hybrids do an admirable job trying. Ultimately, no matter what you do, you will probably not be completely happy. You can spend a lot of money trying to make the bike faster and end up wishing you'd spent that money on a new bike. I converted my hybrid to a cyclocross-style bike but it took a lot of $$ to do it. That's after already spending money trying to make it faster but keeping it a flat bar.
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Old 12-14-15 | 10:45 AM
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From: Kips Bay, NY

Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning

Originally Posted by sw20
Hi All,

currently own this

Pinnacle Lithium Three 2014 Hybrid Bike | Evans Cycles

overall quite pleased with the bike, owned for about 10 months, only mods are some Tioga bar ends, however I am now wanting to go a little faster on the road.

I am now in 2 minds..... do I/can I mod the current bike or sell up and get another bike?

Will thinner tyres (something like these but in 700x28c Continental Grand Prix 4 Season 700C Folding Duraskin Road Tyre - OE | Evans Cycles), changing to a flat bar and flipping/lowering the stem make much difference to the overall performance?

The other choice would be be changing to a CX bike.

Any advice on possible upgrades for the hybrid would be great!
Hello.

Narrow tires could be faster, but the main thing to look for is a fast rolling design and compound. Some weight can be lost here by acquiring "foldable" tires once your old ones wear out. Tires should be personalized according to terrain and ride style. Another area where we all should customize is gearing. Road bound triples can benefit from a close ratio cassette (11-28 is easy to find) that gives you smaller jumps between shifts and still gives you plenty of low gears

Is your position dialed? Make sure your leg extension is optimal and that your seat position allows you to spin comfortably. Flipping the stem is just a way to find your optimum bar position and gives a few extra angles in a very limited threadless setup. Lower is more aero; a flat back helps you deliver more power and is more comfortable. If you cannot comfortably go lower, try working on your core muscles and flexibility. Also, improve your spin. Advanced cyclists run at least 90rpm, which looks insanely fast for beginners.

As you ride more, your handling skills will improve and this will allow you to have a higher low and mid spees, which will bump up your "average speed."

Position, tires, and gearing are my equipment suggestions. Those items will make the motor (you) more efficient. As in all motorsports, the engine is very important
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Old 12-14-15 | 01:47 PM
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thanks for the replies all!

so tyres and upgrading crankset looks like the best option, would something like this be any good? Wiggle | Shimano FC-M590 Deore 9-Speed 48/36/26T Triple Chainset | Chainsets will prob get this bar too Race Face Ride Flat Handlebar | Evans Cycles

I've just replaced my rear tyre with one of these Schwalbe Marathon Plus Flat Less 700C Commuter Tyre | Evans Cycles and wish i had gone for the gatorskins instead!

I would love to get an additional road bike but funds and space won't allow for that, if I was to get a new bike it would more than likely be a cx.
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Old 12-14-15 | 03:04 PM
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Sounds like your sticking with the tires you have now, from your riding experience do you need taller gears? Cassette might cost even less. On that same website is a gear inch calculator to try different variables.
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Old 12-14-15 | 06:57 PM
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From: Middelbury, Vermont

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Originally Posted by sw20
Any advice on possible upgrades for the hybrid would be great!
You can do a number of low cost or no cost things to upgrade your hybrid. Here is an article from this forum you many want to look at. Ten Tips for Improving Hybrid Performance
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Old 12-14-15 | 07:19 PM
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From: ALASKA , SoCal

Bikes: /Skye/ Torker mt, Sirrus flat bar

You got tires, the crank is next
You have a 11-34 cassette & may not need a 3 speed crank.
48-11 for high gear is OK
26-34, LOW-LOW tree climbing gear, probably won't use it much. 100 cadence = 4 mph
a 2 gear compact 50/34 crank might be lighter an option.

Watch the derailleur size, need to be close to matching it's max range.
For a big gear range, usually need the long cage.

Watch CL
might find a used one this time of the year at a good price !

Last edited by bogydave; 12-14-15 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 12-15-15 | 04:35 AM
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From: Broad Brook CT

Bikes: jamis 2002 komodo, univega aplina uno, miele toscana 300, 1972 puch brigadier, Marin Sausalito

not sure of the market in the uk but in the usa a vintage 26lbs road bike can be found for a low price, the lighter ones can get up there in price.
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Old 12-15-15 | 09:31 AM
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From: Kips Bay, NY

Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning

Originally Posted by sw20
thanks for the replies all!

so tyres and upgrading crankset looks like the best option, would something like this be any good? Wiggle | Shimano FC-M590 Deore 9-Speed 48/36/26T Triple Chainset | Chainsets will prob get this bar too Race Face Ride Flat Handlebar | Evans Cycles
It depends. Are you spinning out your 42x11 on flats? Hitting 30+mph @ 120rpm on flats and wishing you could do more? If so, a bigger chainring is your solution. If not, work on that spin. Getting a bigger ring for downhills is not too useful IMO - better to have more usable gears

The thing with risers is that they used to be wider and with more sweep than flats. Now with flats being wide and with more sweep, the only difference is rise (and weight.) If you have any spacers below the stem, you can just lower the stem to achieve the same position as a flat bar. If you already have the stem slammed and you wish to go lower, this is where inverting the stem and flats come in handy.

I wouldn't buy the flat bar at this point.

Last edited by DorkDisk; 12-15-15 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 12-15-15 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DorkDisk
It depends. Are you spinning out your 42x11 on flats? Hitting 30+mph @ 120rpm on flats and wishing you could do more? If so, a bigger chainring is your solution. If not, work on that spin. Getting a bigger ring for downhills is not too useful IMO - better to have more usable gears
Beat me to it, DD!

OP, unless you want to save weight, changing your crank (on that bike) is pointless at this stage: you will not be "faster". You have a 42x11 'big gear' (103 and a bit 'gear inches' with a 32 tire). Let's assume you change to a 32 road tire (more on that below), in your 42x11 you would be going 24.5 mph on the flat @ a cadence of 80, 27.6 @ 90, or 30.6 @ 100. Unless and until you comfortably can spin out that gear on the flat, there's little to no point in a change.

You have a decent flat-bar road bike; you've only had it 10 months. Assuming it fits you, my advice: change out the tires to a high-quality road slick in a 28 or 32 width. Put the money there, and there only, and then concentrate on riding lots -- getting your cadence up etc. That's where your 'speed' will come from. Set a target budget for your next bike, and work toward that (finances and fitness), testing out different kinds of bikes in the meantime to work out what you'll want.
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Old 12-17-15 | 01:41 PM
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Thanks for all the advice! Will be upgrading my tyres after Christmas in the sales! Prob going to 28's.

Once again thanks for the help!
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