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Old 08-08-10 | 03:34 PM
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Upgrade or Replace?

Fresh out of lurkdom, I would greatly appreciate some advice on whether to upgrade or replace my trusty ol' 1994 Marin Stinson. This should be a no-brainer (get a new bike!) except that:
1) The geometry feels tailor-made for me.
2) It is a lightweight steel bike, which seems kind of hard to find.
3) I love this bike.
Except for new tires and seat, this bike has every part that it came with:
Marin Stinson
Each time I try a new bike, the riding position never feels as comfortable. Some people comment that the bike looks really loooooong, and I think the stretched out riding position is what works for me. What I would like are better brakes, more efficient gearing and ergonomic grips.
Is it reasonable to try to modernize an old bike like this? Or is there a similar new bike that I should consider? By the way, it is primarily used as a commuter 9 miles each way from Brooklyn to Midtown Manhattan.
BTW if this is a really stupid question, please don't hate! I like this forum and hope to stick around.
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Old 08-08-10 | 04:03 PM
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Despite popular belief, there is indeed such a thing as stupid questions, but this is definately not one of them

If you really want to keep your current bike and upgrade it, then nothing in the world should stop you from doing so.
If you don't know how to fix bikes yourself, you'll need someone to do it for you and probably pay him to do so.
A better thing to do would be to learn about bike mechanics and upgrade it yourself.
It takes a while to get into, but it isn't that hard for anyone with basic mechanical skills.
Parts can easily and quite cheaply be ordered from all kinds of online shops and these are generally (a lot) cheaper than local stores.
Be sure to know exactly what you need before ordering though, as most parts are only compatible with certain bikes or other parts.
Good luck with it.
If you need any more help with it feel free to ask
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Old 08-08-10 | 04:16 PM
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If you love the bike and the frame is in good condition upgrade it! As AdelaaR says, you can upgrade things yourself, lots of knowledgeable people in the Bike Mechanics forum.
You can swap parts, but the frame is what really matters. When I bought my 2004 Sirrus, I fell in love with that bike, it felt like it was a part of me. Unfortunately after a few years I noticed a crack in the frame and had it replaced with the current model, which is very different from original. I got used to it, and like it OK, but never got over that white frame. Keep the frame, it's worth it. You will love that bike even more after you put some work into it

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Old 08-08-10 | 04:42 PM
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Upgrade, especially since you love the frame. My cousin made the mistake of selling her beloved hybrid once the original components crapped out, and she has regretted it ever since (but hopefully not as much since I took her bike shopping.) If you know a good local mechanic, they can often put on decent mid-range components for a good price - there's no need to get top-of-the-line stuff. I'm sure most bike shops have a plethora of parts they've removed from brand-new bikes because the customers wanted to upgrade as well. Take it in and get some pricing, then you'll at least have some numbers to work with.
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Old 08-08-10 | 05:02 PM
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Thank you all so much for the encouraging replies. It is nice to hear I'm not the only one to fall in love with a frame!

Now, it seems, I need to begin researching components. Any suggestions on logical upgrades for my bike, or is this difficult because there are so many options? Should I try out various configurations at bike shops and see what grabs me?
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Old 08-08-10 | 05:07 PM
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Just do what you said in the original post: brakes, more efficient gearing and ergonomic grips. Then you may want to change seat or pedals, but if you like the ones you have, there's no need.
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Old 08-08-10 | 05:12 PM
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Put some Ergon GX2 grips on and keep riding. What do you mean by more efficient gearing? The brakes should be fine with new pads and adjustment.
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Old 08-08-10 | 05:30 PM
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Ergon grips are just what I had in mind. I didn't realize they make a version with those "minimalist" bar-ends, so thanks for pointing them out.

I should have said, more efficient shifting. Currently my bike has grip-shifting, and I have to sort of yank from one gear to another. Of course, I am totally used to this so perhaps I should just stick with what I have. I've replaced the brake pads before but the braking didn't improve much. Maybe, as you say, this is an adjustment issue.
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Old 08-08-10 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by no1mad
Did you follow the link from the OP to the Bikepedia info about the components? The drivetrain is low by today's standards, even for hybrids. The OP maybe in a similar situation has me and wanting some taller gears.
This is very useful feedback, as I do feel limited in my gear range. What would I be shooting for as an upgrade?
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Old 08-08-10 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by iManda
This is very useful feedback, as I do feel limited in my gear range. What would I be shooting for as an upgrade?
I'd deleted that post, but apparently not soon enough. Did it since you clarified it was shifting and not necessarily the gearing...

Anyway, the stock gearing you have (which is very similar to mine) is rather low once you get into any kind of shape. Let's just say that the granny gear is best used when bucking a double digit headwind while climbing a steep hill.

As far as what type of gear range you want to look for- I'll be of no help. I'll advise you to consult your LBS or let others chime in.
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Old 08-08-10 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by no1mad
...the stock gearing you have (which is very similar to mine) is rather low once you get into any kind of shape.
This is exactly what I've experienced, if what you mean is that I can be in the highest gear and still not get much speed going. If this can be addressed by increasing the gear range, it is definitely going on my wish-list!
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Old 08-08-10 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by iManda
This is exactly what I've experienced, if what you mean is that I can be in the highest gear and still not get much speed going. If this can be addressed by increasing the gear range, it is definitely going on my wish-list!
Yes, that's what I was talking about. I've already done the pricing on upgrading the drivetrain and shifters (I have the grip shifters as well), and with the LBS sourced parts and labor, I'm halfway to the price of another bike. My bike is serviceable the way it is, and there are aspects of my frame that I'm not too fond of (short chainstays). So I'm thinking about just getting another bike.
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Old 08-08-10 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by no1mad
...with the LBS sourced parts and labor, I'm halfway to the price of another bike.
Yup, I'm prepped for the sticker shock! The guy at my LBS said it will come close to the price of a new bike to upgrade mine. But in my case, may be worth it since for me it's all about keeping the frame. In your situation, sounds like The Universe is lobbying for you to have a new bike.
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Old 08-08-10 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by iManda
Ergon grips are just what I had in mind. I didn't realize they make a version with those "minimalist" bar-ends, so thanks for pointing them out.

I should have said, more efficient shifting. Currently my bike has grip-shifting, and I have to sort of yank from one gear to another. Of course, I am totally used to this so perhaps I should just stick with what I have. I've replaced the brake pads before but the braking didn't improve much. Maybe, as you say, this is an adjustment issue.
What style brakes do you have, cantilevers? My '97 Bianchi Advantage has cantilevers, and I never noticed any problem with the stock brakes and pads. A LBS installed some Kool Stop brake pads on my Schwinn Letour (also cantilevers).

FWIW, I would recommend upgrading or at least replacing worn components on your current bike rather than getting a new one.
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Old 08-08-10 | 07:42 PM
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Thanks for the upgrade vote, and yes they are cantilevers.
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Old 08-08-10 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by iManda
Thanks for the upgrade vote, and yes they are cantilevers.
If you haven't already done so, try Kool Stop brake pads and see if they are any better than the stock brake pads. Funny the complaint about the grip shifters. Have they always been a problem? Mine work pretty well, though I have at times considered switching to trigger shifters. Talk to your local bike mechanic and see if you can isolate the shifting problem. Is it the shifters or the derailleurs? Your bike is equiped with Alivio, which wasn't bad for its time. My Bianchi is equipped with similar gripshifters (400 instead of 300?), Acera X FD (one below yours) and STX RD (one above yours).
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Old 08-08-10 | 08:18 PM
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I will definitely check out the Kool Stops. BTW, I'm the first to admit that some of my equipment issues may be operator error (a.k.a. bad habits)! That said, I think my grip shifters worked better when the bike was new-ish. They will sometimes not shift all the way but like a good old friend, I've adjusted to their idiosyncrasies.
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Old 08-13-10 | 04:39 AM
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There's nothing wrong with gripshifts, Imanda
I have gripshifts and they perform very well. (I do have rather expensive ones but most should be fine)
The most common problems with bad shifting are:
1) worn cables or cablehousings
2) incorrect adjustment
I advice that, before you actually go out and buy new shifters or a new derailleur, you check your cables, housings and adjustment.
If you want to upgrade your gripsshifts to new ones, I highly recommend the SRAM Attack's ... I have 'em and they shift like ... euhm .... butter?
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Old 08-14-10 | 09:39 AM
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Hey AdelaaR, I was always happy with them, too. They may just need adjusting or upgrading now that they're Sweet Sixteen. Perhaps I will combine the SRAM attacks with an Ergon + aero-bar combo. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Old 08-17-10 | 03:38 PM
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Thank you, everyone, for your encouragement. I have taken the plunge. Gear-wise, I'm going from 24/34//42 teeth to 28/38/48. It's all pretty much Greek to me, but apparently means I'll have a larger front crank and therefore more speed on the flats. This will help so much when I'm late for work! Will also be upgrading the shifters and grips, and installing fenders. My LBS is recommending going from cantilevers to V-brakes, any thoughts?
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Old 08-17-10 | 03:47 PM
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And, you can always put a higher cassette on the wheel, if the chan irngs aren't enough of a gearing change.

I, also, have a Stinson, and it's a nice bike - but it sure doesn't like to go fast.
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Old 08-17-10 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lucille
Just do what you said in the original post: brakes, more efficient gearing
The difference between the most and least efficient Shimano derailer powertrain is probably something like 2%. And you have to cube root that to get the speed difference.


When I bought my 2004 Sirrus, I fell in love with that bike, it felt like it was a part of me. Unfortunately after a few years I noticed a crack in the frame and had it replaced with the current model
That Sirrus model had a rep for very weak frames - it seems strange to buy a replacement for a defective bike from the same manufacturer.
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Old 08-17-10 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by iManda
Thank you, everyone, for your encouragement. I have taken the plunge. Gear-wise, I'm going from 24/34//42 teeth to 28/38/48. It's all pretty much Greek to me, but apparently means I'll have a larger front crank and therefore more speed on the flats.
If you're spinning out - ie you feel you have strength left at maximum speed but can't turn the pedals fast enough to go faster - yes, you'll be faster on the flats. (But I doubt this is the case unless you have a REALLY poor pedalling technique. A reasonable spin rate will get 30mph out of a 42 tooth chain ring with a standard cassette - or would, if you were strong enough.) Otherwise, no, it's a pointless change. Do your chainrings need changing anyway because they are worn out? If so, if you never use your most powerful hill climbing gears, it's not a harmful change - but it almost certainly isn't a useful one. Especially as the Stinson has one of the least aerodynamic riding positions possible - this bike just isn't built for speed. ...Truthfully, putting a 48 chainring on a Stinson is just stupid - I suspect that they're trying to suit your re-build to the parts they want to get rid of.

This will help so much when I'm late for work!
If you are an elite athlete and commute at sweat drenching speeds, yes. Otherwise no.

Will also be upgrading the shifters and grips, and installing fenders. My LBS is recommending going from cantilevers to V-brakes, any thoughts?
Most bike shops these days don't know how to tune cantis. If you do, keep the cantis. V's made the mass market on their idiot proof-ness (for mechanics) and friendliness to suspension frames - the guy who probably first thought of them, the legendary Keith Bontrager, thought of them as inferior to regular cantis outside of these contexts. There isn't anything really wrong with V-brakes, but an "upgrade" from properly set-up cantis to vee's is arguably more of a downgrade. Otoh, your cantis would probably work better with a fork mounted brake hanger - if your LBS doesn't know why, then they don't know much about cantis.

But really you need to answer two questions -

- What on your bike is worn out and must be replaced?

- What things doesn't your bike do well enough?


Normally the best value upgrade for a bike is better tyres - you can often get a 1-2 mph boost, better braking and cornering*and* better puncture protection. Marathon Supremes in 40mm or 50mm might be good choice. They're not cheap but they are excellent and last 5000-10,000 miles. Ergon grips and Kool Stop salmon brake pads are good. A fork mounted brake hanger and hand fitted straddle cables instead of pre-cuts - and brakes boosters - would be nice for your brakes.
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Old 08-17-10 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by meanwhile
That Sirrus model had a rep for very weak frames - it seems strange to buy a replacement for a defective bike from the same manufacturer.
I didn't buy it, it was replaced under warranty.
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Old 08-17-10 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by meanwhile
If you're spinning out - ie you feel you have strength left at maximum speed but can't turn the pedals fast enough to go faster - yes, you'll be faster on the flats. (But I doubt this is the case unless you have a REALLY poor pedalling technique. A reasonable spin rate will get 30mph out of a 42 tooth chain ring with a standard cassette - or would, if you were strong enough.) Otherwise, no, it's a pointless change. Do your chainrings need changing anyway because they are worn out? If so, if you never use your most powerful hill climbing gears, it's not a harmful change - but it almost certainly isn't a useful one. Especially as the Stinson has one of the least aerodynamic riding positions possible - this bike just isn't built for speed. ...Truthfully, putting a 48 chainring on a Stinson is just stupid - I suspect that they're trying to suit your re-build to the parts they want to get rid of.



If you are an elite athlete and commute at sweat drenching speeds, yes. Otherwise no.



Most bike shops these days don't know how to tune cantis. If you do, keep the cantis. V's made the mass market on their idiot proof-ness (for mechanics) and friendliness to suspension frames - the guy who probably first thought of them, the legendary Keith Bontrager, thought of them as inferior to regular cantis outside of these contexts. There isn't anything really wrong with V-brakes, but an "upgrade" from properly set-up cantis to vee's is arguably more of a downgrade. Otoh, your cantis would probably work better with a fork mounted brake hanger - if your LBS doesn't know why, then they don't know much about cantis.

But really you need to answer two questions -

- What on your bike is worn out and must be replaced?

- What things doesn't your bike do well enough?

Normally the best value upgrade for a bike is better tyres - you can often get a 1-2 mph boost, better braking and cornering*and* better puncture protection. Marathon Supremes in 40mm or 50mm might be good choice. They're not cheap but they are excellent and last 5000-10,000 miles. Ergon grips and Kool Stop salmon brake pads are good. A fork mounted brake hanger and hand fitted straddle cables instead of pre-cuts - and brakes boosters - would be nice for your brakes.
I have to agree with some of these points. I suspect your bike shop is padding the bill on this rebuild. I suspect your bike needs nothing more than a complete tune up, and maybe adjust the shifters/derailleurs, adjust brakes and replace/upgrade the pads, and maybe upgrade the tires.

My hybrid is geared kind of low, to the extent that I almost never use the granny gear, but I also seldom find myself spinning on the biggest chainring in the biggest gear and find myself wishing I had a bigger chainring. Usually my legs give out before that happens.

RE: replacing cantis with V brakes, I question that as well. My wife's hybrid and my son's mountain bike both have V brakes. I have cantis on both of my bikes. I haven't noticed a huge difference in the performance of Vbrakes and cantis. IMO cantis are cooler, and these days, something to distinguish your bike from newer models. I would try Kool stops on your cantis first. The only set of brakes I ever had experience with complete failure were the V brakes on my son's old mountain bike, which may have been a defect or due to abuse, as he is a kid. I was worried about the repair, but the LBS told me not to worry, V brakes are cheap to replace, and they were.

There is a LBS I have been using for a few years, mostly because when I bring up proposals like this, they usually talk me out of it. Over the years, they have talked me out of switching to trigger shifters on my hybrid, changing the gearing, upgrading the derailleurs on my wife's vintage Peugeot, and switching my vintage touring bike to index shifting. On the other hand, they did recommend upgrades that increased performance like install Kool Stops on my bike, sell me new tires for 3 different bikes, switch from knobbies to slicks on my son's mountain bike, and upgrade the derailleur on my son's mountain bike (though I actually had to talk them into it. )
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