While on the hunt for my next rig, one of the Specialized guys commented that I was too stretched out on my current bike.

As I was riding towards home on the MUP today, I noticed two things: a) I felt more comfortable sitting more upright with only the base of my fingers making contact with the bar, and b) when I switched to the bar ends, my left hand started tingling almost immediately.

no1mad, I would try and find an adjustable stem. Out of the 4 bikes that I have now, only one has an adjustable stem,
and is my favorite. I did something rather odd yesterday, took each one out for a 4 mile loop, one after the other. 37
degrees here, so by the 3rd bike my toes were getting numb. But when I got to number 4, ( the one with the most
upright riding style ), and adjustable stem. I was ready to quit, but as I started riding, at about the same average speed,
12 to 17 MPH, small rolling hill loop. I started feeling more rested, and by the end of the ride could have kept going
for another couple of loops on it, ( except could not feel toes any longer ) LOL. I do not ride for speed though, like
long relaxing rides, and then crazy off road stuff. Just my thoughts, hope this helps. Richard

I'd get a shorter stem.

I had a similar situation with my drop bar converted trekker - I'd feel just a bit too stretched out, and I'd find myself sliding forward on the saddle to compensate. The stem is already as short as it's practical to get (60 mm), but it has a pretty aggressive negative rise, so I could change it to would bring the bar to a more relaxed height. On the other hand, the bar itself has a pretty long reach, which contributed much to the stretched out position. Since I already had an old steel drop bar with shorter reach lying around, I swapped it when I was bored one day, and the bike feels much better already. I might also go for a higher stem sometime in the future, but what made the main difference in comfort is shorter reach.

I've had the same question...I decided to go for riser bars, but that's also because I inherited a slightly-too-big-for-me bike with drop bars, and I couldn't really reach the brakes. The stem was also really short (80mm), so I wasn't sure how much shorter I could go and how much difference it would make. I put on drop bars, and it's way better.
But there are also some good options out there for adjusting the stem. If you like to be more upright, you should check this out - gives you options on the height, and looks easy to adjust.

Watch out with adjustable stems.
I had one and it wasn't a bad one either but due to my rather aggressive riding style it always started creaking and eventually moving after a while.
The bolt wasn't bad and it was tightened well ... the whole concept of an adjustable stem just doesn't make sense for aggressive riding and especially when going offroad from time to time.
If you know what angle and length you need ... get a rigid aluminum cast stem.
I got myself the Ritchey 30 degrees stem in 90mm length and am VERY happy with it

AdelaaR is right about the bolt coming loose just enough to make a creaking sound, I just kept tighting
mine. Finally asked the LBS about it, they said it should not be doing that, but I could apply some non
permanent lock tight to it. Well I gave it one more good tighten, and was going to apply the lock tight,
never has creaked again. ( Go Figure ), But I think that the off road part is covered with what Santa
left under the Tree, New Giant MTB, 100mm travel forks, 22 32 42 front 11-32 rear 8 speed, TEKTRO
disk brakes, changed out the KENDRA Nevegal's, most aggressive tire I have seen, and slowest
rolling, almost had to peddle down hill. ( LOL ) to those Bontragers off the Trek, very fast on the rode
with plenty of knobs for off roading. Put a Cygolite light on the front, WOW is that bright, notice
the recharge pack strapped on the frame, has 2 setting low and high, low works well enough for me
but high is like a car head light, kinda pricey though. I even liked the original saddle, took the rack
off the Trek, and been riding this now on the roads, it will work out great for a 5 mile road ride,
then all day of Mountain Biking, and then the ride back. Probably will be my all around go to bike,
it rides that well on the road, and I'm sure it can handle the off road stuff. And at least it fits me
right, 20" instead of the Cannondale F4 that is really to small, and if that Headshok broke, good
by for a couple of months, but with this style, can replace in no time. Not really a
Hybrid, ( but to me it will be ridden that way ), the adjustable stem was great for playing around
with different positions, but I guess after riding the F4 and the Trek so much, I do not mind the
more aggressive style now. missed having a kick stand
strong enough to hold the bike up good. Richard : )

I think I will start posting the pictures first, then typing around them. LOL

Regarding the adjustable stems... I'm a firm believer that moving parts will eventually fail. The only true reason why anyone should have an adjustable stem is to figure out the proper "fit". Once that is figured out, swap out for the appropriate rigid stem.

And, no, I haven't made any changes yet. Now thinking about keeping the stem, but putting on one of those Nashbar Trekking bars.

That is exactly what I did

A new option for an adjustable stem is the Octagon from Montague. Works using a quick-release so no tools are needed for adjustment after installation.

Two quick comments:

1. Higher (whether through flats-to-risers or stem angle) is 'shorter' re. reach, even with the same nominal stem length. Probably a better way to go if current stem is already much under 100mms.

2. For anyone interested, Specialized's 'adjustable' stems > best of both worlds. They work through an internal shim system; once bolted up, very rigid/no creaking etc., and not much of a weight penalty at all. I run them on both my bikes -- the 12 degree version (+8 to 16 degrees or -8 to 16, in 2 degree increments).

I just put a Ritchey adjustable stem on my Fuji with the intent of figuring out where I want the stem to be and then ditching it for a fixed stem with the appropriate geometry. Well, when I first got it and tried to move it the thing would not budge. I took it apart and discovered that it is made with the moving parts and the fixed part basically forming fine, triangle toothed gears that mesh together. Bolt it up tight and that thing ain't goin' nowhere, nohow. You do have to get the adjustment bolt fully tight before tightening the steering tube clamp bolts. Do that and it is solid. Of course I am just riding it indoors on a trainer and rollers right now. It sure looks like it will shrug off the slings and arrows of outrageous fortune out in the real world though.

I'm using it with Jeff Jones aluminum Loop H Bars that I just got too and they suit me better than flat bars (by far) and trekking bars. Again, in indoor riding only so far.

Ken

Those ritchey adjustables do look rigid indeed.