Hello everyone! I recently joined this forum in search of some advice and experience.

I am a university student who used to ride an old department store bike to school every day. Not too long ago, I attempted to change gears to climb a hill, and something got caught in the derailleur, and some gear teeth cracked off, making the bike unusable. I haven't bothered to try to fix it since it was a cheap bike not worth putting money into.

I'd like to replace the bike, so I paid a visit to a bike store near my home. I spoke to an employee there and mentioned that my budget is around three or four hundred dollars and that I was looking for a general purpose bike. He directed me to the Trek 7.1 FX. The bike seemed to be in a much higher tier than the usual department-store bike, but I don't know anything about bikes at all, so I don't know how to compare it to others. (He offered to let me test ride a few bikes, but I didn't have time - I plan to return on a day off.) So, I suppose that my first question is about the quality of the 7.1 FX - how is it? And how does it fare against others? (For example, I saw that Trek has a whole line of 7.x bikes. The next one in line is the 7.2, which seems to provide more features. Would it be worth spending more money on it?)

The other question I have doesn't involve bikes directly. In the past, I've purchased other "big-ticket" items: a car and piano. (On separate occasions, of course!) In both of those settings, you are supposed to negotiate and pay less than the advertised sticker price. Is it the same way with bikes? I believe that the Trek 7.1 FX had a sticker of $449. Do you generally pay that price? Or is there room to negotiate?

Thanks for reading. I really appreciate any comments you can give on any of my questions!

Hi there Roninpro!

Welcome to Bike Forums!

In order for us to help you best, please answer the following questions:

1) Where will you keep your bike at night there at the Univesity?

2) On what type of road surfaces will you be traveling?

3) Are there any hills to traverse on your daily trek?

4) What is the absolute ceiling of your bike budget?

5) Are you certain about the Trek 7.1FX or are you open to other suggestions?

6) Does the frame material matter to you (steel vs. aluminum)?

- Slim

Thank you!

1) I keep my bike in my apartment and office, so there is no worry about it being stolen. (Keeps it clean also.)

2) I mostly travel on paved road and occasionally on dirt paths.

3) Yes, there are some mild hills involved.

4) I'd maybe be willing to stretch up to $600 out-the-door.

5) I'm definitely open to all suggestions.

6) I don't know much about frame material. Are there benefits for each one?

Hey Roninpro!

Well cyclists on this Forum appear to be seriously divided on bicycle frame material types. I am on the steel side of things. I personally, feel as though steel will last for decades, if kept dry. It therefore, is more of an investment than just simply a purchase. There are many steel bicycle frames around today, in perfect working order, that have outlasted their original owners. Also with most bicycles, you can always upgrade the quality of components on a bicycle, as they wear out. In time, you can have a top class bicycle with the best components. It will look like a completely new bike, perform better than most, and its frame can be over twenty years old.
Aluminum has a shorter fatigue life than steel. Eventually, it will run its last cycle and the material will fail. Steel on the other hand, can operate on a daily basis and never reach any fatigue limit, because it has no such limit, that can be reached under normal working conditions. Steel is stronger and more durable than aluminum.

Steel has only one foe, and that's oxidation, or rust! If you keep it dry and protect it from the elements, you can pass your bicycle on to your grandkids.

Now, on behalf of aluminum. If you plan to race your bicycle, then either aluminum or carbon fiber would be best. However, in most situations, that's not the case, and steel wins by default!

Well, so much about frame material, let's move on to bike types....

Since you're mostly on paved roads, I think that some type of a road bike would be best suited to your needs. However, you might prefer a hybrid, since you've already mentioned the aluminum-framed Trek 7.1FX.

Road bikes have drop handlebars. Many hybrids look like road bikes, but they have flat handlebars. These are examples of the two different types:


Hybrid Bike
Road Bike

Which type would you prefer?....Drop or Flat Handlebars?...
(Click on the image to enlarge)

- Slim
PS.

Supportive Websites for Frame Materials:

www.brightspoke.com/c/understanding/bike-frame-materials.html

https://talu.com/materials.php

https://tetcycles.com/bikes/frame-materials/

This kind of question is asked so often I almost feel like making a master list of the whole market with comparisons so people have an idea what to choose. But, since I feel lazy right now, I'd like to name the GT Traffic 4.0 (notice this time I'm not saying 3.0 because for this model year, they changed). That GT has Acera derailleurs and sealed hubs. Sealed hubs can be ridden in all-weather even though they can't be serviced like semi-sealed hubs. I also thought the Giant Roam 1 was interesting.

Do a google search. There are 7.1 fx's 2011 models on closeout deals for $350.00. So yes, you should be able to negotiate a better price.

Thanks for the replies guys. (And sorry for the slow post - I originally posted near my bedtime and went to sleep shortly after.)

For SlimRider: How long of a life on aluminum can I expect? I don't need a legacy bike or anything like that - just something that is reasonably-durable and a good value. I read in a few places that aluminum bikes can be well-built and are generally less expensive than other types. Do you have any thoughts on that?

My old bike had straight bars, so I am used to that. Is there a functional difference between between drop and straight handlebars, or is it a matter of preferance?

For hybridbkrdr: Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into them.

For quattroG: Thanks - I took a look at Google and it did show several closeout deals. I'll make a suggestion about the price at the bike shop if I decide to buy.

Hi there Roninpro!

Glad to see that you're still amongst the living.

Yes! That information for the most part is true, aluminum can be constructed in such a manner that it can last for many years of service. However, everytime that it is used, it experiences cycles of stress. It's the stress cycles that brings it closer to its end. However, for most people, aluminum will serve them well. I've heard of aluminum frames that have lasted for more than ten years. Nonetheless, that's not ten years of continual service.

That really doesn't matter here, though. The point is that both aluminum and steel are great frame materials for bicycles. It's just that IMHO, steel is better. Also, from my experience, the prices of both steel and aluminum are comparable. I mean, there's expensive steel framed bikes and there are expensive aluminum framed bikes. I can't really see any difference there, unless we're talking about special grades of chromoly steel other than the usual 4130 type, like 853 and 631 for example. All of the chromoly grades of steel are stronger than regular carbon steel, or Hi-Tensile steel. Since they are stronger, their tubes can be butted, or shaped in a manner whereas the diameter of the tube is different at the ends, than towards the middle. Chromoly steel tubes, with thicker ends and thinner portions towards the middle, make for lighter bicycles. This allows the manufacturer's to make the bicycle, lighter than what it would be, if it had straight tubing. Chromoly tubing is therefore, made with much thinner walls than Hi-Tensile steel tubing.

Now with respect to handlebars. On one hand one might say, since you're accustom to straight or flat handlebars, maybe you should stick with that. On the other hand, you use to ride a tricycle. It may be time to move on! I personally, have four bicycles. Two have drop handlebars and two have flat ones. Drop handlebars, offer you more hand positions. If you're touring, or riding across states, or across the country, you'll really appreciate the luxury of having drop handlebars. Also, with drop handlebars, you can lean forward with your head tilted downward to assume a more aerodynamic and aggressive position to cycle, or you can just hold on to the hood ( the horizontals) and sit up erect, in a more relaxed riding position. That means, you could be riding along the boardwalk just taking in the sights and enjoying the cool breeze, in a relaxed riding position. However, when you get away from the boardwalk, if somebody's pitbull gets loose and starts to chase you, you'll immediately start pedaling very fast, you'll lean forward as you place your hands firmly onto the bottom ends, or hooks, of your drop handlebars. You'll therefore, be riding much faster, because of increased speed of pedaling, additional torque used by leaning forward, and the decreased wind resistance due to aerodynamic riding posture.

So, which type of bike do you think you'd prefer? ...Aluminum road? ...Steel road?....Aluminum hybrid?...or Steel hybrid?

- Slim

A drop bar, or road bike, will be more pricey. I would stick to the flat bar hybrid with your price range. Yes, the FX7.2 rides nicer, and the 7.3 even nicer yet. For the most part, higher pricer = better components (or frame) = nicer ride. So if you can afford to go up in price a bit, you will probably like the bike more. But the 7.1 would be fine for your purpose. I'm sure any of the Treks, Cannondales, Specialized, Giants etc will ride and feel so much better than your old bike. So try some out, but do yourself a favor and try a few different brands and models, and make sure the bike shop fits you to the bike!

If you do like the FX, you may very well be able to find a lightly ridden used one out there, and probably a higher model than a 7.1. Trek sells a ton of FXs, and often people stop riding or move on to other bikes (road) after starting with a hybrid. Me, I love my hybrid. Consider a Cannondale Quick, in your price range it would probably be a 5 or 4 model. I have a 3 and it climbs pretty well. The 2011 models should be on sale for very good prices right now, because the 2012s are out. You CAN often negotiate price, however some shops already have them marked down and there's not much room to come down further. It sounds like you found a decent shop that'll let you try the bikes out without a hassle.