Fastest Hybrid?
#1
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: The Rio Grande Valley - The Ass of Texas
Bikes: 2012 Trek 8.3 DS
Fastest Hybrid?
Obviously, this is a misleading question. Whether or not a bike is fast is hugely dependent upon the fitness and experience of the rider, however, from a objective technical viewpoint, i.e. the quality of construction materials as well as the weight of the bike, what are some hybrids that could be considered "fast"? I love my Trek 8.3 ds, but I'm wondering if there is any other hybrid out there that might be a bit quicker on the road?
#3
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From: The Rio Grande Valley - The Ass of Texas
Bikes: 2012 Trek 8.3 DS
#4
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
IMHO you've got five major contenders:
1) The Trek 7.7FX
2) The Raleigh Cadent FT3
3) The Giant Rapid 1
4) The Jamis Allegro Elite
5) The Specialized Sirrus Pro
I'll take the Raleigh Cadent Ft3
1) The Trek 7.7FX
2) The Raleigh Cadent FT3
3) The Giant Rapid 1
4) The Jamis Allegro Elite
5) The Specialized Sirrus Pro
I'll take the Raleigh Cadent Ft3
#5
I let the dogs out
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Boulder, CO
Bikes: 2011 Fuji Roubaix 1.0, 2003 Ti Merlin Solis, & 1994 Raleigh MT200
OP: These bikes are not ordered in any hierarchical order. They are all very high end, fast hybrids.
#8
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Canyon Roadlite AL, Kinesis Aithein/Campy build
Top speed is not really a function of weight unless you're riding a tank; that's more important in acceleration and climbing. With a 52/11 ratio - 5 gear-inches bigger than any in the list above - my '04 Jamis Coda would probably be as fast as any hybrid on the road; that ratio is good for 37.5mph @ 100rpm's. If I could pull it, which I have a couple of times, wind-aided in an all-out sprint. To emphasize the ridiculousness of that gearing, the current Codas only use 48t big rings. 50/12 is the current norm.
#9
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: San Antonio, Texas
A bikes quickness is what I consider fast.
To me, it's the responsiveness as you start to peddle and how quick the bike is to get you moving that I consider being fast.
I consider my Diamondback hybrid to be fast and it's 48/11 ratio, but I rarely stay in the high range very long unless I'm going downhill or have a wind at my back.
To me, it's the responsiveness as you start to peddle and how quick the bike is to get you moving that I consider being fast.
I consider my Diamondback hybrid to be fast and it's 48/11 ratio, but I rarely stay in the high range very long unless I'm going downhill or have a wind at my back.
#11
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Canyon Roadlite AL, Kinesis Aithein/Campy build
A bikes quickness is what I consider fast.
To me, it's the responsiveness as you start to peddle and how quick the bike is to get you moving that I consider being fast.
I consider my Diamondback hybrid to be fast and it's 48/11 ratio, but I rarely stay in the high range very long unless I'm going downhill or have a wind at my back.
To me, it's the responsiveness as you start to peddle and how quick the bike is to get you moving that I consider being fast.
I consider my Diamondback hybrid to be fast and it's 48/11 ratio, but I rarely stay in the high range very long unless I'm going downhill or have a wind at my back.
#12
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From: SoCal
Bikes: Roubaix SL4 Expert , Cervelo S2
Probably the ones with the shortest head tubes that place the bars lower and rider in the most aerodynamic position (i.e., a true flat-bar road bike). The 2010 Fuji Absolute fits this description but I don't know if there are any of these left. Most people buy hybrids for a more comfortable/relaxed position compared to a road racing bike.
Generally speaking, if the stock manufacturer's photo shows the bars level with the seat it's probably designed to be fast. Gearing doesn't really matter IMO as long as there's a double or triple crank.
Generally speaking, if the stock manufacturer's photo shows the bars level with the seat it's probably designed to be fast. Gearing doesn't really matter IMO as long as there's a double or triple crank.
Last edited by Dunbar; 03-25-12 at 12:19 AM.
#13
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Canyon Roadlite AL, Kinesis Aithein/Campy build
My seat is set about 4" above the bars. I used to own a Jamis Quest with a slightly larger frame and lower seat; I wasn't a whole lot lower in the drops than I am on the Coda.
If I had to choose one from SlimRider's list based simply on "go fast," it'd probably be the Sirrus Pro. It's the most "roadie" of the bunch - thinnest tires, nice road-oriented cockpit and I suspect it's the lightest of the bunch. Not that I'd go there - it ain't steel
- but it sure looks sexy and I bet I'd be pretty fast on it. Until my back started whining.
If I had to choose one from SlimRider's list based simply on "go fast," it'd probably be the Sirrus Pro. It's the most "roadie" of the bunch - thinnest tires, nice road-oriented cockpit and I suspect it's the lightest of the bunch. Not that I'd go there - it ain't steel
- but it sure looks sexy and I bet I'd be pretty fast on it. Until my back started whining.
#14
Has to be this one https://www.orbea.com/us-us/bicis/mod.../#presentacion
#16
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Canyon Roadlite AL, Kinesis Aithein/Campy build
#17
Narrower bars will keep your arms close to your body. That's why road bikes have drop bars. Drop bars also allow you to ride more hunched over which is also more aero. Road bikes have narrower wheels and probably most people use lighter tires. Hybrids often have wheels/tires designed for smoother rides and no flats.
Why not keep the DS and purchase a real road bike?
Why not keep the DS and purchase a real road bike?
#18
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From: The Rio Grande Valley - The Ass of Texas
Bikes: 2012 Trek 8.3 DS
#19
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
SuperDave says:
Dude, you're crazy!
For erections lasting over 4 hours, please consult a doctor.
That even takes the Orbea off my mind, which I thought would never happen.
#20
This bike is built up from scratch, I wanted a super fast light weight flat bar road bike but also wanted a tough offroader after a change of tires. Its certainly one of a kind borrowing components from all cycling disciplines and some tricky mod's to make it all fit together.
After all this I could have got a similar result buying a CX bike however the up front cost for the higher end model I would have liked would have been huge and it wouldn't be as unique or tough.
Having said all that, ElGuao maybe a CX bike is what you've needed all along then change things as you want during ownership like handlebars and tires "a flat bar CX bike sounds unique"
#21
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From: Philadelphia
Bikes: Canyon Roadlite AL, Kinesis Aithein/Campy build
I actually found the fork since that post, but it appears to be unavailable in the US. It's not disc-only, anyway, and if I'm gonna drop three times the original cost of my bike onto the frame, I don't want canti bosses messing up the aesthetics. 
If only I had a contact at Kinesis....I want a DC39 fork so bad I can taste it.

If only I had a contact at Kinesis....I want a DC39 fork so bad I can taste it.
#23
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