7100 handlebar help.
#1
7100 handlebar help.
I would like to get a new set of bars for my trek 7100. I like the bike but need just a little more aggressive stance. I sit up just a little to far, so I'm trying to figure out the best route. Not sure but was thinking more of a flat bar with a more aggressive stem. Although drop bars running threw my head as well. Please let me know the best option. Also would it even make sense to have drop bars. Another thing how do I figure out what stem I need?
#3
Ha ha ha ha ha
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,555
Likes: 19
From: Gold Coast; Australia
Bikes: 2004 ORBEA Mitis2 Plus Carbon, 2007 Cannondale Bad Boy Si Disc, 2012 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Marlin WSD 29er Aldi Big Box (Polygon) 650b
For the time being, until you work out the best position for yourself, you could simply flip the stem (turn it upside down) That would bring you down lower if that's what you are after. Please post a pic of your stem bar area so we can see the set up now. There are variations to stems, so without seeing yours, I can't give a definite answer.
edit...I just searched the trek 7100 and it appears you don't have a threadless headset. That alone is going to limit your options as your forks have been cut flush with the head tube, thus restricting bolting multiple stems on it. If your stem is the type in this picture https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...n/hybrid/7100# I have no idea, sorry.
edit...I just searched the trek 7100 and it appears you don't have a threadless headset. That alone is going to limit your options as your forks have been cut flush with the head tube, thus restricting bolting multiple stems on it. If your stem is the type in this picture https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes...n/hybrid/7100# I have no idea, sorry.
Last edited by giantcfr1; 06-03-12 at 06:07 PM.
#4
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: NW Louisiana
Bikes: Trek DS 8.3
Silly question, but I'll ask it just in case...
The 7100 has an adjustable stem, do you already have it in the lowest position? Older versions have a bolt/plate underneath that can be loosened to adjust the angle. I believe newer ones you loosen a side bolt at the pivot point.
The 7100 has an adjustable stem, do you already have it in the lowest position? Older versions have a bolt/plate underneath that can be loosened to adjust the angle. I believe newer ones you loosen a side bolt at the pivot point.
#5
Fork and spoon operator
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 577
Likes: 11
From: Hopkins, Minnesota
Bikes: 2013 Surly Crosscheck, 1990 Schwinn Impact, 1973 Schwinn Continental
I ride a Trek 7200. My first handlebar change was changing the stem and putting on trekking bars. You need a quill stem because of the threaded Fork. If you google "quill stem" lots of cheap options come up. The trekking handlebars are nice, because they give you multiple hand positions and work with the original shifters and brakes.
When my suspension fork reached the end of its life I switched it for a threadless fork, and kept the trekking bars.
When my suspension fork reached the end of its life I switched it for a threadless fork, and kept the trekking bars.
#7
Ha ha ha ha ha
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,555
Likes: 19
From: Gold Coast; Australia
Bikes: 2004 ORBEA Mitis2 Plus Carbon, 2007 Cannondale Bad Boy Si Disc, 2012 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Marlin WSD 29er Aldi Big Box (Polygon) 650b
Maybe a little problem there.
I think I read you paid around $80 for the bike. I'm not being a smartarse, but I think you should be happy with how it is and use it as a beer bike. Save your money and look for another "aggressive" style bike.
BUT...If you want spend some money on that particular bike, maybe you should look at dumping the suspension forks and buy a rigid MTB fork. Next a good flat stem, and then a flatbar (or riserbar with a 20mm rise) I think it'd rock then. You could get those parts secondhand and save some money too.
This is mine with a 20mm rise, riserbar.

I think I read you paid around $80 for the bike. I'm not being a smartarse, but I think you should be happy with how it is and use it as a beer bike. Save your money and look for another "aggressive" style bike.
BUT...If you want spend some money on that particular bike, maybe you should look at dumping the suspension forks and buy a rigid MTB fork. Next a good flat stem, and then a flatbar (or riserbar with a 20mm rise) I think it'd rock then. You could get those parts secondhand and save some money too.
This is mine with a 20mm rise, riserbar.

Last edited by giantcfr1; 06-04-12 at 01:48 AM.
#8
That is exactly what I want. I'm not interested in buying another bike, I love mine but just want new bars. I figure if i do spend a hundred or so on bars that is still way cheaper than a new bike.
So how do i go about figuring out what size quil and stem i will need?
So how do i go about figuring out what size quil and stem i will need?
#9
Ha ha ha ha ha
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,555
Likes: 19
From: Gold Coast; Australia
Bikes: 2004 ORBEA Mitis2 Plus Carbon, 2007 Cannondale Bad Boy Si Disc, 2012 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Marlin WSD 29er Aldi Big Box (Polygon) 650b
Ok, if you don`t want to buy a fork (but I think that would be good upfront if you are mainly doing road and light trails) you will have to buy a fork crown stem converter from for example PROFILE.
Then buy a 31.8 stem and handle bar. 31.8 is the oversize but looks great.
eg. only....
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=62289
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=19856
if you don't get a new fork, then something like this. I'm sorry but you will have to ask a shop maybe about your current fork quil / crown size for this qizmo...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Profile-Desi...item4ab7e232c4
Oh also to be on the safe side, buy a couple of 5mm spacers in case you have to take up some gap under the stem and headset. (like the red one I have in the first pic.
Then buy a 31.8 stem and handle bar. 31.8 is the oversize but looks great.
eg. only....
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=62289
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=19856
if you don't get a new fork, then something like this. I'm sorry but you will have to ask a shop maybe about your current fork quil / crown size for this qizmo...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Profile-Desi...item4ab7e232c4
Oh also to be on the safe side, buy a couple of 5mm spacers in case you have to take up some gap under the stem and headset. (like the red one I have in the first pic.
Last edited by giantcfr1; 06-04-12 at 07:55 AM.
#10
Ha ha ha ha ha
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,555
Likes: 19
From: Gold Coast; Australia
Bikes: 2004 ORBEA Mitis2 Plus Carbon, 2007 Cannondale Bad Boy Si Disc, 2012 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Marlin WSD 29er Aldi Big Box (Polygon) 650b
I found a very old pic of what I did years ago and it was successful. Ignore the small cog I had instead of a spacer.
#11
So what's the point of the spacer? So i just need to head to lbs and have them order what I want. I plan on new shifters and grips with this package so its gonna cost me couple hundred. But would like to stay on the cheap side for the fact I'm not a hardcore cyclists its just my wheels around town.
#12
Ha ha ha ha ha
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,555
Likes: 19
From: Gold Coast; Australia
Bikes: 2004 ORBEA Mitis2 Plus Carbon, 2007 Cannondale Bad Boy Si Disc, 2012 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Marlin WSD 29er Aldi Big Box (Polygon) 650b
#13
Fork and spoon operator
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 577
Likes: 11
From: Hopkins, Minnesota
Bikes: 2013 Surly Crosscheck, 1990 Schwinn Impact, 1973 Schwinn Continental
#14
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: NW Louisiana
Bikes: Trek DS 8.3
So what's the point of the spacer? So i just need to head to lbs and have them order what I want. I plan on new shifters and grips with this package so its gonna cost me couple hundred. But would like to stay on the cheap side for the fact I'm not a hardcore cyclists its just my wheels around town.
Apparently some (or maybe all? IDK) SRAM derailleurs use a different pull ratio than the Shimano stuff.
And it does look like you have the stem at the lowest position already, so GiantCFR1 has what is probably the best solution unless you can find a quill style stem that would be lower down. I've only been dealing with bikes since January so I'm not the best for that sort of information...

If you do find a solution please post it as I'm interested in how it could be done. I may make a few more tweaks to my 7100 and sell it, and that could be an interesting option if the buyer wants a lower handlebar setup.
#17
yea, I'll buy one of these
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1728
and one of these
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=7464
and spacers, now of course I would have to figure out why degree and size I would need. Then I would just buy the flatbar of my choice.
This is right?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1728
and one of these
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=7464
and spacers, now of course I would have to figure out why degree and size I would need. Then I would just buy the flatbar of my choice.
This is right?
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Bikes: Roubaix SL4 Expert , Cervelo S2
Why not just start with some 25.4mm clamp low rise bars or flat bars? I don't see the point in changing out the stem yet. If you decide to change the stem out in the future the bars will work with it (just be sure to get a 25.4mm clamp stem.)
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...p?category=516
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...p?category=515
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...p?category=516
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...p?category=515
#21
Fork and spoon operator
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 577
Likes: 11
From: Hopkins, Minnesota
Bikes: 2013 Surly Crosscheck, 1990 Schwinn Impact, 1973 Schwinn Continental
You have to turn them backwards and then flip them over. It actually looks pretty cool! But I did that with my 7200 and it wasn't very comfortable-- there was a little downward slant that made my hands want to slide off.
#23
Ha ha ha ha ha
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,555
Likes: 19
From: Gold Coast; Australia
Bikes: 2004 ORBEA Mitis2 Plus Carbon, 2007 Cannondale Bad Boy Si Disc, 2012 Trek Gary Fisher Collection Marlin WSD 29er Aldi Big Box (Polygon) 650b
yea, I'll buy one of these
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1728
and one of these
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=7464
and spacers, now of course I would have to figure out why degree and size I would need. Then I would just buy the flatbar of my choice.
This is right?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=1728
and one of these
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=7464
and spacers, now of course I would have to figure out why degree and size I would need. Then I would just buy the flatbar of my choice.
This is right?
The link to the stem is a little confusing due to the picture. If you want aggressive, I guess you want to be lower. The angle of the stem is important. That's the tricky part. If you want the stem flat, you need less degrees. For example 0 deg / 90 deg. These figures are usually the same angle depending on the manufacturer. One in your link was 130 deg...with that, you would be worse off.
Go to a shop and look at them and picture them on your bike. Many bikes have different steerer tube angles so that's why you should go look feel and picture them. Now, on my bike I went for a 20mm riserbar, which may or may not suit you. My guess is somewhere between 0mm (flat) and 20mm is your go.
Dunbar's suggestion to get a 25.4 bar first and try the angle first on your current stem, is the best idea. I only suggested 31.8 because I like the look. If you bought a 31.8 first, it wouldn't fit on your current stem.
Sorry if I'm confusing the issue here.
Last edited by giantcfr1; 06-04-12 at 10:07 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
scale
Bicycle Mechanics
9
06-26-11 08:40 PM
glittermoomin
Bicycle Mechanics
8
04-05-10 04:32 PM





