I'm switching to shorter cranks on my Trek 7.4 FX WSD 9-speed hybrid which currently has 26-36-48 steel chainrings. I was recommended cranks which come with 22/32/42 steel rings, with a 44t alloy ring as an optional upgrade.

As I'm a total dunce with gears, does this mean I could choose from either:

22/32/42 (all steel)

OR

22/32/44T (where the 44T ring is alloy. What does the "T" mean anyway)?

Which would be better? As to how I ride, I prefer spinning and use the middle gear (36?) 90% of the time. I only ride on paved roads, although I do like having the option of a bigger gear to "work up to" and for working out on my indoor trainer (a CycleOps Fluid Pro). I'm not very athletic and I need to lose 10 kg of weight, if that counts.

Which would you recommend I go with?

Thanks in advance

T = teeth. Your current rings of 48,36,26 are probably fine, and still give you that "big gear" when you want it.

I could only see those new smaller rings, if you have a LOT of REALLY BIG hills where you normally ride. But that 26 and the big cog in the back, should get you up almost anything. Especially on paved surfaces - a lot of dirt would be different.

Thanks. But I need to change my rings even though I don't have a problem with them because I'm changing to shorter cranks and can only choose between 22-32-42 or 22-32-44t (44t alloy). So I'd like to have some advice on the pros and cons of each

Why not just get shorter crank arms to go with your current rings**********? Makes no sense that you NEED new rings!

Steel rings last a long long time. They are also very very heavy. A large aluminium chainring will drop some weight. A properly made large Al chainring lasts a long time.

Why are you swapping cranks?

The cranks I'm changing to are custom SRAM 600 while my current crank is a Shimano. I also need to change the bottom bracket cartridge. Admittedly, I have no idea what I'm doing-just following the instruction of the person I bought the custom crankset from!

Thanks for the explanation. I'm swapping cranks because I feel my current 170 mm ones are too long. I'm only 156 cm tall (5' 1/2")

If the old and new cranksets have the same number of bolts to attach the chainrings and they both use chainrings with the same BCD (bolt circle diameter) then you will be able to swap gears between the old and new cranksets. Shorter cranks will require higher pedal effort to achieve the same forward thrust but the lower gearing of the new crankset will compensate or perhaps overcompensate for that. So your new and old cranksets may come out about even as far as the perceived effort for climbing hills is concerned although you will need to pedal at higher rpms for any given speed with the new gears which is ok if you like to spin. If the chainring mounting specs mentioned above match between the new and old cranksets then you could use your old gears if you find the new ones aren't quite what you want. If they don't match then either of the new options should work but the 44T option will get you closer to the same top gear you had before which is important if you find yourself riding near the top gear on your trainer (or in real life but you say not so much in real life).

With shorter cranks you will have less leverage, so lower gears could be helpful. However, if you are rarely in your lowest gear, and you mention this being a custom crank, ask if you can have your old rings used, and possibly save a few bucks.

If you must choose one or the other, and the cost is the same, I would suggest going with the 44 tooth aluminum ring. This for 2 reasons. First it saves a little weight. Second, I suspect you will spend most of your time on the 32 tooth ring since you currently spend most of your time on the 36... therefore any decreased life on the large ring due to wear should be minimal.

Also, unless you ride extremely long distances, a quality aluminum ring will provide years of service, even under constant use... and if you do ride extremely long distances, you shouldn't mind replacing a chain ring once in a while.

AND there are harder more expensive Aluminum alloys .. 7075-T6 (Ergal) has to be Machined , where the softer alloys can be die cut in a stamping Press so a Lower Cost.

Bike on a trainer stand what anything weighs really does not Matter.. unless you have to haul both Upstairs a Lot.