jedijon

Hi,

I have a few bikes and need to add one to the fleet; but I'm never confident that I'm doing a good enough job evaluating the bike being purchased. Currently, I have a Giant carbon frame road bike, an early 2000s trek 1200 road bike, & a diamondback full suspension MTB with some issues that I clearly overpaid for.

Since the carbon frame aero seat post doesn't allow a trailer hookup, the family rides are with one skinny tire road bike and one messed up MTB. Being more dedicated to biking than my wife I'll be taking the slower option. Kids are currently on a trail-a-bike and a seat. Will likely transition to two towed bikes (Weehoo or trail-gator not sure yet) this year/next. Would like A) a less noticeable disparity in bike effort than current and B) at a minimum rack attachment points on dropouts and preferably on stays & fork for bike seat/winter weather commuting/possibility of touring.

Here's a craiglist add pretty local to me, measurements provided by seller seem pretty close to my/her size(s) and trying to get the model [can't quite make it out in the picture].

Workhorse mtb


Rather than whiff again on a mountain bike (paid ~$200 for full suspension, didn't confirm model, gaskets on front/rear gone and probably need a full rebuild but also probably not worth doing--replacements more expensive than worth doing, lacks attachment points or ability to attach except at seat post, crankshaft out of alignment to the point of gears spontaneously shifting--plus some more minor stuff I've already fixed) I'd NEED to get this right.

Close to the right bike for what I need?
Over or underpriced?
What to ask about first / look for in-person on this bike?

My other options appear to be a women's specific model (new) in the $500/$800 range on a more hybrid style frame either front suspension or none (and touring bars) for the misses...whatever feels most comfortable...and a preference for an option that gets her off my old roadbike which she really does not enjoy.

Thanks!

corrado33

I personally can't find any info about an old Diamondback "Workhorse" bike. Google has no results. I'm not old enough to know better as well. Diamondback used to make good bikes, not so much anymore. The bike LOOKS older, and it looks to be in great shape. However, I still think $150 for an old mountain bike with a front fork that probably doesn't work anymore is a bit over priced. However, if it is, in fact, an old decent diamondback AND it FITS YOU, then it wouldn't be a terrible purchase.

EDIT: The bike LOOKS like it has stamped dropouts which *generally* means it's of lower quality, probably after Diamondback got bought out. I'd say it's not worth $150.

The main thing is that it fits you. How tall are you and your wife? 5'8" to 5'10.5"? If that frame is an 18" frame, like many medium frames are, then it should fit you if you're between that range. You could probably expand it a bit in each direction, but not much. Could probably expand it a bit lower than higher. If you're taller you'd want a larger frame.

EDIT: Just saw it says it's a 16" bike. So probably anything shorter than 5'9ish and you'd be good.

When looking at the bike. Make sure the suspension works. Period. Not just that it moves, but it WORKS. Looks for cracks and rust on the bottom bracket and down in the frame under the seat post as well as all of the weld points. Make sure the seatpost moves... Look at the rims and make sure they aren't terribly worn (look at the brake tracks, they'll wear through eventually.) Make sure the rims are trueish.

FrozenK

That looks to be a mid-to-late 90's mountainbike . Based on the parts on it I'd guess it was a lower end model when new (RST fork and the cranks). The fork is crap, but the wheels look decent and newer. And the fork is most likely a coil-sprung affair with no damping. A pogo stick, but at least durable. It has canti brakes which may not be all that strong if you are pulling a trailer. You can mount v brakes layer on if you need to, though. So the bike would work for the intended purpose of putzing around with the kids or riding to work.

I tend to agree that $150 is a lot of money for a lower end bike that is pushing 20 years. But it looks like there aren't a lot of bikes for sale where you live and that drives prices up. I'd go, check to make sure the frame doesn't have any obvious cracks (head tube, seat tube and top tube junction, bottom bracket area and drop outs) make sure the wheels spin true, the fork isn't too worn out, and the gears shift. Then if it fits and it all checks out, I'd offer $100 cash and maybe settle for $125.

jedijon

Thanks for the advice all!