I have been mainly a roadie for the past 30 y, commuting to work, touring, and long rides on weekends. I have 26 in. MTB from the mid '80's that does an ok job on the rare occasion that I want to ride on dirt. I'm now in a position to purchase a new MTB. Given the type of riding I do, I'm looking to keep it simple and low maintenance so would like a fully rigid bike with 27.5+ wheels. Most of the riding will be local MTB trails where I have already been riding and off-road touring (aka bikepacking). Nothing super technical or gnarly- I am 57 after all! I'm thinking the plus size tires will help to smooth things out with the lack of suspension. I'm intrigued by Jones Bikes and am a almost ready to pull the trigger. Before I do I wanted to ask here about what folks think about ridged plus bikes in general, and specifically the Jones philosophy. I'm also going back and forth about 27.5 vs 29, and plus or not. Also, hydraulic or cable pull brakes?

I'm not much help since all my mountain bikes are only 26ers but as to the brakes, definitely hydraulic. I have one with hydraulic and love it. And as to maintenance of it, if you can bleed a car's brakes, you can do a bikes.

First of all, welcome back to the dirt.

I don't own a pure fat bike but I do have a 27.5+. I have also rented a pure fat bike (rigid) and have opinions. 43, big ole rider who does enjoy some technical gnarly riding from time to time, so my opinion is biased. So enough with pre warning.

I hated every second of my pure rigid fat tire experience. I couldn't get the bike to track well, I couldn't get it to lay down in turns and I did not notice any "cush" in the large tires, I dreaded going fast over anything bumpier than a root. That said, I am an agnostic in all things, so I can understand their use and appeal. I would buy one as a special use bike, but my wrists could not take the rigid fork. I was in agony for days. I would also, absolutely... require, hydraulic brakes and a dropper post. The three of those things would have made my fat tire experience far more enjoyable I am sure.

I ride a full sus 27.5+ bike. 2018 Trek fuel ex 8. The caveat being "back in my day, these dang fangled plus size tires were just called tires" so the 2.8 size is what I always rode when I lived in Whistler. So I don't consider them big. I find the normal width tires of today to be more akin to pinners (seriously, 2.3... jeez louis). Regardless, I love the plus size tire range. They do slow me down a bit compared to a big ole 29er, but the overall.. plushness (think really wet, muddy, root terrain, and needing to run at 15psi for any traction) and size are very appealing. Again, same rule as above. I can't live without a sus fork, hydro brakes and a dropper seatpost.

So all of my experiences said, and compared to your needs, renders most of my points kind of useless. However if you have been riding a touring bike successfully, and just want something that may be a little more rugged than a good fatty should do you fine. I would still stick to my hydro brakes and dropper seatpost comments. The larger tires will help roll over anything, but I am not convinced in their plushness as a substitute for suspension, I didn't notice it.

Love the look of the jones bike. I love how low it can go in the back (needs dropper). I would be curious to try the Ti. Some of what he does with the geometry is very interesting. The full rigid I rode was a popular brand that doesn't nail some of the points he seems to. Local company sells them, I might need to reach out for a demo

I would still think hydro brakes and a dropper (I am a huge fan of droppers haha) would make a world of difference.

I can't yet speak w/experience to the plus part, but I often ride rigid on my local trails. For years I would ride rigid in nearby Marquette as well. You'll want to be off your seat a lot, and ride more like BMXers ride, letting the bike move under you. I actually prefer rigid for riding gravel roads and doubletrack. Does the Jones frame also give the option of front suspension if you want it down the road? It's a nice option to have.

Do people get in there cars and wish they didn't have suspension?

Never understood this dealio about wanting to ride off road with zero suspension.

At 57 years old you are just asking to get beat up. Go for a 27.5+ with at least a suspension fork.

Nor with dirt bikes and snowmobiles. Those motorized devices are too heavy and move too fast to want to run w/o suspension.

I believe bicycles provide trade offs in this area that are either not feasible or don't matter with motorized vehicles. With a bicycle I can trade away suspension for less weight. I would never make that trade on a motorcycle, but on a bicycle it's feasible depending upon what trails I ride. That said, I have both a rigid bike and a quite nice suspension bike. I grab whichever I'm in the mood to grab. Sometimes it's one, and sometimes it's the other.

Rigid vs suspension is entirely personal preference and has a lot to do with what you want to get out of the sport. I mostly ride full suspension, but have a hardtail 29er on the side and have on occasion run it fully rigid.

I will say that when the trail is on the smooth side, rigid is a real joy. But my body just can't take it for long on rougher trails.

If I was to go rigid now, (or get another hardtail) I would definitely go with "plus" tires.

A 29er with plus tires and front sus a great do all ride. Are the trails all smooth dirt? Some rocks and roots? MA rider here, I use all 6" of travel on my rides with chunky rocks.

IDK what the terrain is like in Ohio, the Trek 27.5 MTB in the shop here have front suspension forks
want a rigid front fork? that's something to sort out at point of sale, in the shop.

rather than hope to have the factory change just your bike 1/2 way around the globe....


my 1 bike with discs got cable pulled hydraulic calipers, it came with mechanical ones..

its a kludge.. possible with speed dial avid levers..


Gravel and Cyclo cross are more road bike like, off pavement..





..

I tried riding rigid one summer with my fat bike with 4.6" wide tires. Out of all the rigid choices out there this would be the one that would ride the best. Unfortunately it just beat me up on my local trail system no matter where I adjusted the tire pressure. My trails are the rocky/ rooty variety. It felt like holding a jack hammer for 6-7 miles and my upper body would hurt. That and the tires lose traction/control because they don't stay planted on the ground in the rough sections. Purchased a full suspension and never looked back. Fat bike is winter use / groomed trail only these days.

Cross bikes...Never understood why someone would want to "carry" a perfectly good bicycle.

Gravel riding is not like trail riding. Apples and Oranges. Rigid works fine for that along with tires that are 40c or larger. And I've done a fair amount of 50-100 mile gravel rides.

I get that. I'd probably be right there with you on full suspension on a trail like that. Trails where I ride are somewhat smooth, especially the machine built ones.

My home trail is as described above...the old school rake and ride variety which is kinda my favorite.

Also have some machine built ones and yeah rigid would be OK there.

We used to have a hand built trail in town about five minutes pedal from my house. Gone now, and I miss it sometimes.

I'm 58, ride rigid 27.5+ and love it. An alternative to the Jones bike is a Kona Unit X. Steel frame, 1 X 11, tubeless-ready, hydro discs, $1200. IMO, a dropper post is mandatory, but suspension is overrated.

Depends on how fast you want to go and how rough the terrain is. If those are the trails you ride, they look to be pretty smooth riding.

I like more technical trails, and at 61 I couldn't enjoy those on a rigid or even a hardtail.

Yes, some places are better suited for suspension than others. I just think people over-emphasize it as some sort of universal necessity. That picture was taken in NW Arkansas, which, like most places, has a wide variety of trail surfaces; some groomed, some technical. Riding there this fall, I found that properly-inflated plus-size tires provided more than sufficient shock absorption for all but the most heinous sections. The added benefits of more accurate steering, lighter weight, and zero maintenance make rigid the better choice for me.

Agreed, it is not needed. My uncle rides everything in Whistler, BC, on a titanium ht. He also has a dually he uses for racing. Need vs want, in this day and age is often confused.

OK, you are going to haul stuff, and you are going to trail ride. You are not going to DH at speed with your camping gear strapped on ... So you need comfort and efficiency. 15 PSI for DH is not in that envelope.

I'd say 29er for the ease of roll-over on rough stuff. Id say minimum weight because you'll be adding weight with your touring gear.

I'd say 2x9 drive train because touring will put you into all sorts of terrain from flat pavement for miles to roots and short climbs while laden. You need gears.

I'd say air suspension up front and Thudbuster out back with a rigid rear triangle for weight savings and rigidity while carrying you and the load. Skeleton rack out back well bolted with SS fasteners to carry touring stuff.

Carry a shock pump and adjust the forks and tires as needed. Air up for the road so you have good pedal efficiency and click in the lock-out. Drop a bit of air for the rough stuff and open the lock-out. Run different air pressures for general trail riding vs. touring while loaded.

Same for tires. Need compromise. Schwalbe Marathon maybe in as big a size as will fit the frame. Big white reflector sidewalls so traffic can see you at dawn and dusk. Not great going DH, but prolly doable going slow. Fine on paved stretches at 60 psi. OK off-road at 40 psi and down to 30 in a pinch will cover a lot of trail surfaces ...

Really nice saddle and good bars that fit for hours in the saddle. Have fun