Gearing, inflation?
#26
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I, of course, did change to a larger ring on my hardtail, but there are clearance issues with a full suspension. On most full suspension bikes, at least mine, a 34T chainring is the largest you can go, which might be enough,
But I wasn't asking how to fix the problem, just how useful a gear that low was.
What many of you are missing is the age consideration. What someone can and would do at 30 isn't the same as what they can and would do at 70. The possibility of falling and getting injured is a much bigger consideration when you get old. I'm picturing pedaling like mad, on a really steep climb, and fighting to keep upright. I'd probably get off and walk.
But I wasn't asking how to fix the problem, just how useful a gear that low was.
What many of you are missing is the age consideration. What someone can and would do at 30 isn't the same as what they can and would do at 70. The possibility of falling and getting injured is a much bigger consideration when you get old. I'm picturing pedaling like mad, on a really steep climb, and fighting to keep upright. I'd probably get off and walk.
#27
Plenty of people have replied that they've been happy riding steep uphills with a gear equal to or lower than your low gear. So there's your answer.
If you can't go any larger than 34 for your chainring, swap the cassette for one more narrowly spaced. Problem solved.
Or even more simply: leave everything as is and don't use that sprocket. The bike I ride most often still has a triple crankset. I've used the small ring maybe five times in the last five years.
On the other hand, I should probably get rid of my fire extinguisher since my house hasn't yet caught fire and I don't expect it ever will.
If you can't go any larger than 34 for your chainring, swap the cassette for one more narrowly spaced. Problem solved.
Or even more simply: leave everything as is and don't use that sprocket. The bike I ride most often still has a triple crankset. I've used the small ring maybe five times in the last five years.
On the other hand, I should probably get rid of my fire extinguisher since my house hasn't yet caught fire and I don't expect it ever will.
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You are always the same age inside.---Gertrude Stein
My aluminum bikes: Light, strong, cheap, and comfy.
You are always the same age inside.---Gertrude Stein
My aluminum bikes: Light, strong, cheap, and comfy.
#28
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From: North Central Wisconsin
I find that, in order to maintain sufficient forward speed, I have to pedal faster than I care to or am capable of. There is a useable lower gear limit for just about everyone. For some, it might be 22X51. For me, it's something more than that.
Last edited by prj71; 04-04-26 at 08:04 AM.
#29
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Like I said, I wasn't looking for a solution to a problem. I can find my own solutions. All your suggestions, about possible solutions, were already extremely obvious to me, but thanks anyway.
I was simply asking if others found a 32X51 gear to be too low to be of use.
Just curious if it was just me or others thought it was crazy low too
.
I already looked into changing the cassette on the full suspension bike. Would have liked a 9X45, but not compatible with my set-up. But I might get a 10X45.
I think 32X51 is lower than I can use but I need to make sure that 32X45 is low enough. I need to do some more riding on the full suspension before making a decision.
I was simply asking if others found a 32X51 gear to be too low to be of use.
Just curious if it was just me or others thought it was crazy low too
.
I already looked into changing the cassette on the full suspension bike. Would have liked a 9X45, but not compatible with my set-up. But I might get a 10X45.
I think 32X51 is lower than I can use but I need to make sure that 32X45 is low enough. I need to do some more riding on the full suspension before making a decision.
#30
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You are coming from a roadie position which is different from mountain bike riding. Even the pros are using similar gearing so unless you are some super pro why would you not use a similar gearing to what everyone else is using for good reason. On a smooth flat road it is much easier to grind when encountering roots, rocks, mud and other loose bits it is better to have a more sensible gearing.
You do you I guess but for someone who has been doing this a while to deny that having useful gearing is well useful just doesn't make sense. But I guess if all your time is on an extremely different surface it might be tough to change that mindset when you don't know it as well or at all.
You do you I guess but for someone who has been doing this a while to deny that having useful gearing is well useful just doesn't make sense. But I guess if all your time is on an extremely different surface it might be tough to change that mindset when you don't know it as well or at all.
On that note, getting a cassette, with a low gear you only use once or twice a year, maybe isn't the wisest decision.
#31
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I've had hundreds of cassettes during my life.
I've been riding since before there were cassettes. You could buy and change individual cogs. I've built up my own cog sets numerous times.
My theory on cassettes is that, yes, you should take the maximum high and low, you might ever need, into consideration, but another consideration is what gears you are going to use frequently. Using road bike gearing as an example, getting a 12X32 cassette when you'll only use the 12T or 32T cogs a few times a year, maybe isn't the way to go. You might be better off getting a 13X28 and just accepting that there will be a few times when the 13 and 28 aren't enough.
I've been riding since before there were cassettes. You could buy and change individual cogs. I've built up my own cog sets numerous times.
My theory on cassettes is that, yes, you should take the maximum high and low, you might ever need, into consideration, but another consideration is what gears you are going to use frequently. Using road bike gearing as an example, getting a 12X32 cassette when you'll only use the 12T or 32T cogs a few times a year, maybe isn't the way to go. You might be better off getting a 13X28 and just accepting that there will be a few times when the 13 and 28 aren't enough.
#32
I've had hundreds of cassettes during my life.
I've been riding since before there were cassettes. You could buy and change individual cogs. I've built up my own cog sets numerous times.
My theory on cassettes is that, yes, you should take the maximum high and low, you might ever need, into consideration, but another consideration is what gears you are going to use frequently. Using road bike gearing as an example, getting a 12X32 cassette when you'll only use the 12T or 32T cogs a few times a year, maybe isn't the way to go. You might be better off getting a 13X28 and just accepting that there will be a few times when the 13 and 28 aren't enough.
I've been riding since before there were cassettes. You could buy and change individual cogs. I've built up my own cog sets numerous times.
My theory on cassettes is that, yes, you should take the maximum high and low, you might ever need, into consideration, but another consideration is what gears you are going to use frequently. Using road bike gearing as an example, getting a 12X32 cassette when you'll only use the 12T or 32T cogs a few times a year, maybe isn't the way to go. You might be better off getting a 13X28 and just accepting that there will be a few times when the 13 and 28 aren't enough.
Certainly more annoying than having a bail-out gear at the other end of the cassette that gets used only once in a while.
The common 11-tooth small sprocket is mostly useful for pedaling slowly downhill, for those who like to pedal on steep descents for some mysterious reason.
__________________
You are always the same age inside.---Gertrude Stein
My aluminum bikes: Light, strong, cheap, and comfy.
You are always the same age inside.---Gertrude Stein
My aluminum bikes: Light, strong, cheap, and comfy.
#33
Clark W. Griswold




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I'm not denying that useful gearing is useful, I'm denying that, for me and maybe not for you, a 32X51 isn't useful for me. I can't see ever using it.
On that note, getting a cassette, with a low gear you only use once or twice a year, maybe isn't the wisest decision.
On that note, getting a cassette, with a low gear you only use once or twice a year, maybe isn't the wisest decision.
#34
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 5,773
Likes: 1,791
From: North Central Wisconsin
.
I already looked into changing the cassette on the full suspension bike. Would have liked a 9X45, but not compatible with my set-up. But I might get a 10X45.
I think 32X51 is lower than I can use but I need to make sure that 32X45 is low enough. I need to do some more riding on the full suspension before making a decision.
I already looked into changing the cassette on the full suspension bike. Would have liked a 9X45, but not compatible with my set-up. But I might get a 10X45.
I think 32X51 is lower than I can use but I need to make sure that 32X45 is low enough. I need to do some more riding on the full suspension before making a decision.
I guess you haven't really told us...But where are you planning to ride this Full Suspension mountain bike? If it's not on Single Track trails then you bought the wrong tool for the job.
Last edited by prj71; 04-06-26 at 09:50 AM.
#35
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 5,773
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From: North Central Wisconsin
#36
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Joined: Oct 2022
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From: Ventura County, CA
Bikes: Tallboy, Domane, old 90s MTB beater/grocery-getter, and a couple of franken-gravel experiments based on the Sirrus x 5.0.
Not exactly what the OP is asking, but there is some debate among MTB-ers about what ultralow granny gears are good for. While they're great for slow grinding up relatively non-technical steep sections, once you hit tech and need a sharp pedal punch to get over an obstacle the low gear often doesn't work. Paradoxically when the going gets harder a harder gear is required.
So when I swapped from my old 32T for a 28T chainring it made some of the 25-30% (non-technical) sections of trail around here much more doable for me, but it didn't really help my tech climbing at all.
So when I swapped from my old 32T for a 28T chainring it made some of the 25-30% (non-technical) sections of trail around here much more doable for me, but it didn't really help my tech climbing at all.






