Learning how to brake
01-17-06 | 11:29 PM
#51
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From: tartarus
Bikes: MTB's & a Cyclocross
Originally Posted by KonaRider24
I call bs, it is people like you who get trails closed and in a competitive situation the only perception people will have of you if you slide a bike in the turns is of a dork and as of a bad rider. A good rider will break before or lightly brake in the turn and take the turn in an apex, in other terms you take it like a formula one car on a wide open course, go into the turn from the outside hit the bottom mid turn and exit high with a bunch of momentum. Sliding scrubs off too much speed, damages the trail, and is not impressive/intimidiating at all. If you put in consistent fast times, people will respect you and respect is much more effective than intimidation is.
I'm not lying at all about this, I never slid any of my bikes when cornering on the dirt, the only time I slid the rear tire was to finish off a tire that was about completely worn out, and that was on pavement, I was taught as a kid that sliding when cornering slows you down and is hard on the equipment.
I'm not lying at all about this, I never slid any of my bikes when cornering on the dirt, the only time I slid the rear tire was to finish off a tire that was about completely worn out, and that was on pavement, I was taught as a kid that sliding when cornering slows you down and is hard on the equipment.
I am not going to go into braking techniques or if it slows you down or if it's about respect or intimidation . i can read here that this SKIDDING/ sliding perception has been taken to kamikaze lengths.
Put it this way, i have carved fairly sharp turns entering approx 50 & cleaned them using proper braking.
P.S.
(as you mentioned) That's why i am called the DUFUS(not 'dork") on the trails.heh.
If your tires come loose at all(with knobbies) basically you are slowly erroding the trail or ride less than completely dry trails.
Last edited by sngltrackdufus; 01-17-06 at 11:49 PM.
01-18-06 | 12:05 AM
#52
Still kicking.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 19,659
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From: Annandale, New Jersey
Bikes: Bike Count: Rising.
Funny since braking and cornering techniques run hand in hand.
Skidding in any shape or form is bad, especially in your neck of the woods. There are ways to get around skidding, unfortunately 90% of the ways are in braking technique. For example: sharp turns, easy on the brakes and try to use the ruts as a berm or get the front wheel off the ground and steer the bike with the rear as in using it as a pivot. Of course that is to be used on a slower, more techical trail/course, on a faster course just start out wide and hit the apex of the turn on the inside and exit back on the outside. Non sharp you usually don't need to brake, and hit the turning points(remember, outside, inside outside.) If the turns are linked in a long set of turns that bring you about 180 degrees(AKA horse shoe, you want to lessen the turn as much as possible, usually though these turns are bermed on a race course but on a trail, could be either.) Outside as long as possible, to the inside for almost the rest of it then on the pedals hard as you reach the exit. To achieve that turn guess what you need brakes. Oh and tire tread comes to be essential, a certain tire that fits works well, and has a somewhat sticky compound to it usually works really good on the front, the tacky rubber will grip well on the dirt, the rear a similar tread design, but with a harder rubber compound, is best suited.
But whatever, can't change a person's riding habits online, can only suggest it. Just be more considerate for the other people that use the trails before skidding, if it is an emergency skid, they are excusable, but in a non emergency situation, it's not called for. Try the different tire durometer combination, it really works.
Skidding in any shape or form is bad, especially in your neck of the woods. There are ways to get around skidding, unfortunately 90% of the ways are in braking technique. For example: sharp turns, easy on the brakes and try to use the ruts as a berm or get the front wheel off the ground and steer the bike with the rear as in using it as a pivot. Of course that is to be used on a slower, more techical trail/course, on a faster course just start out wide and hit the apex of the turn on the inside and exit back on the outside. Non sharp you usually don't need to brake, and hit the turning points(remember, outside, inside outside.) If the turns are linked in a long set of turns that bring you about 180 degrees(AKA horse shoe, you want to lessen the turn as much as possible, usually though these turns are bermed on a race course but on a trail, could be either.) Outside as long as possible, to the inside for almost the rest of it then on the pedals hard as you reach the exit. To achieve that turn guess what you need brakes. Oh and tire tread comes to be essential, a certain tire that fits works well, and has a somewhat sticky compound to it usually works really good on the front, the tacky rubber will grip well on the dirt, the rear a similar tread design, but with a harder rubber compound, is best suited.
But whatever, can't change a person's riding habits online, can only suggest it. Just be more considerate for the other people that use the trails before skidding, if it is an emergency skid, they are excusable, but in a non emergency situation, it's not called for. Try the different tire durometer combination, it really works.
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01-18-06 | 12:33 AM
#53
Banned.
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,258
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From: tartarus
Bikes: MTB's & a Cyclocross
Originally Posted by KonaRider24
Funny since braking and cornering techniques run hand in hand.
Skidding in any shape or form is bad, especially in your neck of the woods. There are ways to get around skidding, unfortunately 90% of the ways are in braking technique. For example: sharp turns, easy on the brakes and try to use the ruts as a berm or get the front wheel off the ground and steer the bike with the rear as in using it as a pivot. Of course that is to be used on a slower, more techical trail/course, on a faster course just start out wide and hit the apex of the turn on the inside and exit back on the outside. Non sharp you usually don't need to brake, and hit the turning points(remember, outside, inside outside.) If the turns are linked in a long set of turns that bring you about 180 degrees(AKA horse shoe, you want to lessen the turn as much as possible, usually though these turns are bermed on a race course but on a trail, could be either.) Outside as long as possible, to the inside for almost the rest of it then on the pedals hard as you reach the exit. To achieve that turn guess what you need brakes. Oh and tire tread comes to be essential, a certain tire that fits works well, and has a somewhat sticky compound to it usually works really good on the front, the tacky rubber will grip well on the dirt, the rear a similar tread design, but with a harder rubber compound, is best suited.
But whatever, can't change a person's riding habits online, can only suggest it. Just be more considerate for the other people that use the trails before skidding, if it is an emergency skid, they are excusable, but in a non emergency situation, it's not called for. Try the different tire durometer combination, it really works.
Skidding in any shape or form is bad, especially in your neck of the woods. There are ways to get around skidding, unfortunately 90% of the ways are in braking technique. For example: sharp turns, easy on the brakes and try to use the ruts as a berm or get the front wheel off the ground and steer the bike with the rear as in using it as a pivot. Of course that is to be used on a slower, more techical trail/course, on a faster course just start out wide and hit the apex of the turn on the inside and exit back on the outside. Non sharp you usually don't need to brake, and hit the turning points(remember, outside, inside outside.) If the turns are linked in a long set of turns that bring you about 180 degrees(AKA horse shoe, you want to lessen the turn as much as possible, usually though these turns are bermed on a race course but on a trail, could be either.) Outside as long as possible, to the inside for almost the rest of it then on the pedals hard as you reach the exit. To achieve that turn guess what you need brakes. Oh and tire tread comes to be essential, a certain tire that fits works well, and has a somewhat sticky compound to it usually works really good on the front, the tacky rubber will grip well on the dirt, the rear a similar tread design, but with a harder rubber compound, is best suited.
But whatever, can't change a person's riding habits online, can only suggest it. Just be more considerate for the other people that use the trails before skidding, if it is an emergency skid, they are excusable, but in a non emergency situation, it's not called for. Try the different tire durometer combination, it really works.
01-18-06 | 01:32 AM
#54
Banned.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: tartarus
Bikes: MTB's & a Cyclocross
If i am going down a fairly steep trail, i am going to start on the inside & slide to the outward if tires want to slide. I am not going to scrub speed before hand just because i am afraid a pebble might be overturned.
I am also not going to be thinking about any politicly induced forum chat.
One more thing about the intimidation thing, i just happen to have an article here with a few tips from a pro that states something of using rear wheel swingout for intimidation by startling opponent.& yes , on a bicycle not a "formula one race car."
I am also not going to be thinking about any politicly induced forum chat.
One more thing about the intimidation thing, i just happen to have an article here with a few tips from a pro that states something of using rear wheel swingout for intimidation by startling opponent.& yes , on a bicycle not a "formula one race car."
Last edited by sngltrackdufus; 01-18-06 at 02:10 AM.
01-18-06 | 01:37 AM
#56
Uh...hello yo? *raises hand* Just to let you guys know, for those of us who don't know how to brake like that, you're scaring us...... 
01-18-06 | 01:46 AM
#57
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From: tartarus
Bikes: MTB's & a Cyclocross
Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind
Uh...hello yo? *raises hand* Just to let you guys know, for those of us who don't know how to brake like that, you're scaring us......
01-18-06 | 02:08 AM
#58
If i am going down a fairly steep trail, i am going to start on the inside & slide to the outward if tires want to slide. I am not going to scrub speed before hand
If not to be gentle on the trail, do it so you go faster and maintain your exit speed, and to be a better rider.
The whole rebel "i dont give a crap, sliding is the best" jive you're on makes you look not only careless, but uninformed and foolish. It exposes you not only as an inconsiderate loser with a chip on your shoulder, but a bad rider to boot.
Good work.
01-18-06 | 02:17 AM
#59
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From: tartarus
Bikes: MTB's & a Cyclocross
Originally Posted by Flak
You do realise that your way of cornering is inefficient, thus significantly slower and also more prone to losing control right? Be it a car, a bike, or anything else on wheels, on road or off...you should be finished with all your braking before you enter the turn.
If not to be gentle on the trail, do it so you go faster and maintain your exit speed, and to be a better rider.
The whole rebel "i dont give a crap, sliding is the best" jive you're on makes you look not only careless, but uninformed and foolish. It exposes you not only as an inconsiderate loser with a chip on your shoulder, but a bad rider to boot.
Good work.
If not to be gentle on the trail, do it so you go faster and maintain your exit speed, and to be a better rider.
The whole rebel "i dont give a crap, sliding is the best" jive you're on makes you look not only careless, but uninformed and foolish. It exposes you not only as an inconsiderate loser with a chip on your shoulder, but a bad rider to boot.
Good work.
.
01-18-06 | 02:25 AM
#60
I drink your MILKSHAKE
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Just put him on your ignore list. If you don't feed a troll they either go away or get banned
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01-18-06 | 02:59 AM
#62
I drink your MILKSHAKE
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
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From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
Originally Posted by sngltrackdufus
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01-18-06 | 04:11 AM
#64
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From: tartarus
Bikes: MTB's & a Cyclocross
Well , i am off to the local trail for a nice mud ride before i have to hit the work spot . Next time i will i will supress my ideologies,i promise to meet your cliche & be a part of your clique there my friend that would be so neato for me .
I need a clue don't i
tisk,tisk. 
.I need a clue don't i
tisk,tisk.
01-20-06 | 01:18 AM
#69
omygodomygod
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 420
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From: yay area ca
If only for the sake of completness here, I'd like to mention that you can skid all you want on fire roads.
In fact I do that just to stay comfortable with the feeling of the bike skidding. Truth is, skidding happens, even if by accident. Whether or not you have the muscle memory to keep the bike up can be the difference between a close call and injury.
So skidding isn't all bad. But for the love of god don't do it on nice singletrac.
If you want to practice come out to the nasty, uneven, mud-slidden, cow-pocked stuff I ride on.
In fact I do that just to stay comfortable with the feeling of the bike skidding. Truth is, skidding happens, even if by accident. Whether or not you have the muscle memory to keep the bike up can be the difference between a close call and injury.
So skidding isn't all bad. But for the love of god don't do it on nice singletrac.
If you want to practice come out to the nasty, uneven, mud-slidden, cow-pocked stuff I ride on.
01-20-06 | 08:47 AM
#70
Banned.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: tartarus
Bikes: MTB's & a Cyclocross
Originally Posted by TwinCam
If only for the sake of completness here, I'd like to mention that you can skid all you want on fire roads.
In fact I do that just to stay comfortable with the feeling of the bike skidding. Truth is, skidding happens, even if by accident. Whether or not you have the muscle memory to keep the bike up can be the difference between a close call and injury.
So skidding isn't all bad. But for the love of god don't do it on nice singletrac.
If you want to practice come out to the nasty, uneven, mud-slidden, cow-pocked stuff I ride on.
In fact I do that just to stay comfortable with the feeling of the bike skidding. Truth is, skidding happens, even if by accident. Whether or not you have the muscle memory to keep the bike up can be the difference between a close call and injury.
So skidding isn't all bad. But for the love of god don't do it on nice singletrac.
If you want to practice come out to the nasty, uneven, mud-slidden, cow-pocked stuff I ride on.
