Made a date with a drillpress wednesday.
#26
I couldn't car less.
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Originally Posted by scrublover
this is a worse idea than drilling your parts. disc on a fork not meant to take it when designed is not a good idea. unless you are having it done free or very cheap, a decent rigid disc for can be had pretty d@mn cheap.
Cheap ones yes. The steel has not been subjected to heat in the area\can be brazed.
yeah, it may be all about the technical fun aspect for you, but that, and drilling parts into things is generally not good. see: the drillium fad in 70-80s road racing.
but, i'm sure the designers of you components took into account that someone might want to drill holes in said components during their designing phase......
Bro said T.R Norba wins were sub 18 lb rigid. My bikes\builds stronger.
stuff does brake. stating they won't is only courting disaster. i've seen many, many broken unmodified parts that where claimed "unbreakable" at one point.
Yep...it does break. I've had 5mm wlll bars bend after the sound of it hitting stuff is sickening.
Getting off! :
not trying to be an ass or anythng jeff, but there are better ways to save a miniscule amount of weight on a bike without compromising structual integrity. and it's all stuff that wouldn't cost much cash. if you keep drilling and shaving, stuff *will* break on you eventually, even at your weight.
Half a pound is a big deal front climbing near vert. (Not like I do it much ).
Rollback (not Wallmart) is a freak. I used to do vert ramp. Same scare.
I've cut well over 2 lbs already.
It IS a weight thing for me cycling. Having say 4 lbs off the bike and twice as strong \efficient is what i'm going for.
2 years of tweaking pays off.
i'm saying this as i broke a frame in half, one i thought unbreakable. and yes, it was very high quality steel. even though it (gasp!) wasn't ritchey tubing.
Cheap ones yes. The steel has not been subjected to heat in the area\can be brazed.
yeah, it may be all about the technical fun aspect for you, but that, and drilling parts into things is generally not good. see: the drillium fad in 70-80s road racing.
but, i'm sure the designers of you components took into account that someone might want to drill holes in said components during their designing phase......
Bro said T.R Norba wins were sub 18 lb rigid. My bikes\builds stronger.
stuff does brake. stating they won't is only courting disaster. i've seen many, many broken unmodified parts that where claimed "unbreakable" at one point.
Yep...it does break. I've had 5mm wlll bars bend after the sound of it hitting stuff is sickening.
Getting off! :
not trying to be an ass or anythng jeff, but there are better ways to save a miniscule amount of weight on a bike without compromising structual integrity. and it's all stuff that wouldn't cost much cash. if you keep drilling and shaving, stuff *will* break on you eventually, even at your weight.
Half a pound is a big deal front climbing near vert. (Not like I do it much ).
Rollback (not Wallmart) is a freak. I used to do vert ramp. Same scare.
I've cut well over 2 lbs already.
It IS a weight thing for me cycling. Having say 4 lbs off the bike and twice as strong \efficient is what i'm going for.
2 years of tweaking pays off.
i'm saying this as i broke a frame in half, one i thought unbreakable. and yes, it was very high quality steel. even though it (gasp!) wasn't ritchey tubing.
My frame hasn't bent -tossed me on my @$$ a few.
I did design a guesset design for chromoly steertubes, the gusset plate tube\junctions skips the weld zones. So cool for chromo.
Too hot to bring it up here. I type with 2 fingers....damn these webbed hands!
I hate Tri water events.[/COLOR]
Last edited by jeff williams; 01-25-06 at 02:46 AM.
#27
Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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i still think you're smoking crack, but whatever makes you happy. it's your bike.
again, you persist in the ridiculous idea that just because something is heavy/steel/thick/unflexy
that it won't break.
i'll stick with my 28# pig that i can easily climb with, and ride ugly stuff back down without worrying about drilled/stupid lite parts breaking.
have fun with it, don't get too crazy, and be sure to post up some pics of the finished product.
edit: and about those ritchey team racing wins....sure, on custom tuned bikes for the racers. that get parts inspected, taken care of, and replaced by a factory mechanic when needed. comparing world cup level racing rigs to real everyday ride rigs in terms of durability is like apples to bowling balls. most pro XC bikes are heavily tweaked by the team mechs. i'd not want to ride many of them on my regular trail rides.
again, you persist in the ridiculous idea that just because something is heavy/steel/thick/unflexy
that it won't break.
i'll stick with my 28# pig that i can easily climb with, and ride ugly stuff back down without worrying about drilled/stupid lite parts breaking.
have fun with it, don't get too crazy, and be sure to post up some pics of the finished product.
edit: and about those ritchey team racing wins....sure, on custom tuned bikes for the racers. that get parts inspected, taken care of, and replaced by a factory mechanic when needed. comparing world cup level racing rigs to real everyday ride rigs in terms of durability is like apples to bowling balls. most pro XC bikes are heavily tweaked by the team mechs. i'd not want to ride many of them on my regular trail rides.
Last edited by scrublover; 01-25-06 at 03:06 AM.
#28
I couldn't car less.
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Originally Posted by scrublover
i still think you're smoking crack, but whatever makes you happy. it's your bike.
Not smoking pipe, cuttin' it.
again, you persist in the ridiculous idea that just because something is heavy/steel/thick/unflexy
that it won't break. Dude///I ride a fexy steel frame.
i'll stick with my 28# pig that i can easily climb with, and ride ugly stuff back down without worrying about drilled/stupid lite parts breaking.
Yes, snapped metal tubing could cause really severe injury.
have fun with it, don't get too crazy, and be sure to post up some pics of the finished product.
Not smoking pipe, cuttin' it.
again, you persist in the ridiculous idea that just because something is heavy/steel/thick/unflexy
that it won't break. Dude///I ride a fexy steel frame.
i'll stick with my 28# pig that i can easily climb with, and ride ugly stuff back down without worrying about drilled/stupid lite parts breaking.
Yes, snapped metal tubing could cause really severe injury.
have fun with it, don't get too crazy, and be sure to post up some pics of the finished product.
Threadkill? I'm asking Mael.
Last edited by jeff williams; 01-25-06 at 04:13 AM.
#29
South Jersey
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I'm gonna try to change your mind one more time. First of all you say you're going to cut 4 lbs off the bike weight by drilling, that is impossible to do safely. Second you say the STEEL fork has not been affected by heat before you weld your disc tabs on, well-the fundamental process for making steel is related to high heat. Third, why are you trying to cut this much weight in the first place, you obviously don't race? Do you understand the type of corrosion you are going to get under your grips? Oh and that reminds me, you're going to get a really poor seal between the grips and bars; not to mention having to ride with a flexy noodle handlebar anyway (because its steel and full of holes). As a final comment, say you do get your bike under whatever weight number you're shooting for, do you really think that its going to ride like a lightweight race rig? Its going like a cheap steel bike that is drilled full of holes, Oh well- you know what they say about people that don't heed the past...
#30
later
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im not sure if someone mentioned it or not, and im just too lazy to read all these posts, but have you considered just buying a new lighter stem/bar instead of drilling holes into them? Drilling holes into a handlebar just seems stupid and dangerous.
#31
Moar cowbell
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Originally Posted by scrublover
i still think you're smoking crack, but whatever makes you happy. it's your bike.
again, you persist in the ridiculous idea that just because something is heavy/steel/thick/unflexy
that it won't break.
again, you persist in the ridiculous idea that just because something is heavy/steel/thick/unflexy
that it won't break.
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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
#32
I couldn't car less.
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Originally Posted by C4Byke
I'm gonna try to change your mind one more time. First of all you say you're going to cut 4 lbs off the bike weight by drilling, that is impossible to do safely. Second you say the STEEL fork has not been affected by heat before you weld your disc tabs on, well-the fundamental process for making steel is related to high heat. Third, why are you trying to cut this much weight in the first place, you obviously don't race? Do you understand the type of corrosion you are going to get under your grips? Oh and that reminds me, you're going to get a really poor seal between the grips and bars; not to mention having to ride with a flexy noodle handlebar anyway (because its steel and full of holes). As a final comment, say you do get your bike under whatever weight number you're shooting for, do you really think that its going to ride like a lightweight race rig? Its going like a cheap steel bike that is drilled full of holes, Oh well- you know what they say about people that don't heed the past...
Maybe under 2 lbs from trimming bolts\tube ends.
No quick release junk either.
Done...
Hex seatpost bolt.
Hex cap wheel axles.
Shortened seatpost.
Shortened bars.
Threaded fork -shortened stem adapter and center bolt. (To required length, no spacers).
Brakebooster long bolts shortened (less the spacers).
Grannyring and bolts removed.
Front derailer\shifter\cable removed.
Single pulley only on dual pulley tensioner system.
Seatstay cablestop cut off frame.
Bolt in bar ends replaced with plugs.
Extraneous long bolts shortened or replaced.
All non-essential plastic\fenders\guards\reflectors etc removed.
I have a plastic bottle cage, and a light. My treats for keeping the weight down.
....and the general component replacement\upgrade has got around 4lbs off.
....again...my bars are aluminium...my STEM is chromoly.
Imagine 5mm wall STEEL bars. THAT would be heavy.
As far a s flexy bars...guess why I run a steel stem? Or why the bars are so thick?
Flex is deadly for aluminium.
I'm not drilling the parts of the bars that suffer stress. Under the grips, ending before the lock-collars.
the stress will be at the inside collar of the lock-ons, -the elbow of the bars and where the stem clamps.
Not drilling there.
And as far as you guys know =I'm not drilling anything!
It's just not a smart, I may ask Mael to kill the thread as it may give somebody a stupid idea.
-don't say it.
as far as riding like a lightweight race rig....that what the frame was designed for.
Racing...no frills, butt ugly steel. Awesome handling.
As far as buying lightweight parts...no thanks. Light stuff flexes\breaks.
I have lightweight risers -and don't use them because they flex.
I prefer heavy and strong...to the point of having a bike thats front heavy with the pig bars and stem.
The disc adapter can be welded\brazed on, pretty sure. The welder will know, he is an 'engineer' as well.
-the problem is it has to be steel not aluminium, I might have to fabricate it myself.
Bar end photo -the bar wall is 1mm thicker than the collar.
Bar photos, lightest lower. Nickle chromoly center butted race bars.
Top are 4mm wall 6061 non-butted bmx bars I bent crashing.
The 2 in the middle are garbage.
Damage photo is from running light risers without the brace, the flex had the steel of the clamp cutting lightly into the aluminium.
Last edited by jeff williams; 01-25-06 at 02:18 PM.