![]() |
Originally Posted by wethepeople
Look at the dropouts, it's on right. The crown is just on the back instead of the front.
|
or you could just know its a Pace fork in the first place :p
|
Originally Posted by CaptMatt15
or you could just know its a Pace fork in the first place :p
|
Originally Posted by Choccy
Well here's an old picture, since this was taken I've added XTR front and rear mechs, XTR crank, XT wheels on XC717, Thomson seatpost and Xpedo Ti/Ti pedals.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Superlight.jpg that is a pace fork, not a risse. |
Originally Posted by OneTinSloth
that is a pace fork, not a risse.
why is it that only pace and manitou use the reverse arch? |
^^Because manitou sucks.
|
Does anybody have any good things to say about the Kona Blast?
|
Originally Posted by RyanReid
Does anybody have any good things to say about the Kona Blast?
|
Originally Posted by santiago
My Kona Blast matches a pair a shorts I bought perfectly.
|
Originally Posted by free_pizza
Do you have any pics of these sweet shorts? :)
http://stradasystems.com/mtb/sadl200...s/dscn1716.jpg |
|
My hub is guaranteed to be bigger than yours. :P
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...e007/Dare6.jpg |
|
Originally Posted by MattP.
True, but internals are no good with gouged stanchions.
Would you either: 1) Run stanchion guards, and possible have to put new oil in it sooner than expected. Maybe $30 at a LBS if you don't know how? or 2) Not run them, possible ding your stanchion, have to purchase a new upper assembly and send the fork off to be rebuilt? For a Lyrik (just throwing number out there), it runs about $320 for the uppers alone, add on service and you're looking at about $400? That's for RockShox, I'm sure Fox charges quite a bit more. Choice is a no-brainer for me. Unless you have angered the forest sprites, or unless you plan on tossing your bike where it shouldn't be tossed, the front wheel won't kick rocks up anywhere near the stanchions, if it kicks them up at all. Mud on the backsides is a problem, which is why I would keep the guards for the nasties. |
My new ride ~ 2007 Marin Rift Zone ... have had it on the trails a couple times this week. It's fantastic. Utterly fantastic. Can't find a fault with it. Hopefully I'll get much better in action photos soon.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g?t=1173921765 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...g?t=1173921907 |
ooohhh
Hardtail. .. .
sexy |
My bike...
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/b3f8f5bc.jpg Friend's bike... http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...00/Bike036.jpg After a million attempts I got this picture. The picture was shot by me and is of me, so the timing is a little off.:) http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/f7fa2cd4.jpg My day of riding ended when this happened...:( http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0/91a80406.jpg |
Originally Posted by DasProfezzional
Non sequitur. I'd keep the stanchion guards for a muddy day, but would keep them off all the rest. If you don't throw your bike on the ground, there aren't going to be many rocks coming up at the stanchions. How would they get there?
Unless you have angered the forest sprites, or unless you plan on tossing your bike where it shouldn't be tossed, the front wheel won't kick rocks up anywhere near the stanchions, if it kicks them up at all. Mud on the backsides is a problem, which is why I would keep the guards for the nasties. |
Originally Posted by MattP.
True, but internals are no good with gouged stanchions.
If you use a lizardskin as a "stanchion guard" you dramatically increase your chances of gouging your stanchions, due to abrasives that invariably migrate between the lizardskin and the stanchions as the shock cycles. |
Originally Posted by R. Danneskjöld
You don't get it.
If you use a lizardskin as a "stanchion guard" you dramatically increase your chances of gouging your stanchions, due to abrasives that invariably migrate between the lizardskin and the stanchions as the shock cycles. |
Some updated bike pics...
The V10: http://members.shaw.ca/johartman/ima...s/P1020429.JPG http://members.shaw.ca/johartman/ima...s/P1020436.JPG The updated Coiler to a Coilair (well at least my version of it): http://members.shaw.ca/johartman/ima...s/P1020448.JPG |
Originally Posted by MattP.
Very true, never though about that. But do you agree, that running Lizard skins will prevent (to an extent) the chance of getting your stanchion dinged by a rock when say you get a little to close to a rack wall?
|
Originally Posted by MattP.
But do you agree, that running Lizard skins will prevent (to an extent) the chance of getting your stanchion dinged by a rock when say you get a little to close to a rack wall?
Really, you're being paranoid about a rock wall to the extent that you're almost guaranteeing that you'll damage your stanchions. Need another opinion about lizardskins? Ask Fox what they think about running them on their forks. |
Brap brap.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...r/Brapbrap.jpg Since our dirtjumps are about a 25minute ride from my house I usually strap a shovel to this and bushwack my way out there. Special mods include. Custom front fascia (not shown) Batman logo covering bad bondo job. F-150 horn. Stickers. Ductaped stuff. Hole cut in side so I can get a screwdriver in to adjust the idle. |
Originally Posted by R. Danneskjöld
You don't get it.
If you use a lizardskin as a "stanchion guard" you dramatically increase your chances of gouging your stanchions, due to abrasives that invariably migrate between the lizardskin and the stanchions as the shock cycles. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:49 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.