Not sure if the demo car had active steering...what does it do (I'd check online but I can't seem to access the BMW site right now)?

I really liked the squared lines of the 1-series, looks like an older M3. I was thinking black with the M package:
http://www.bmw.ca/configurator3/imag...668_BW261M.jpg

^ that would look badass with a black V10 strapped on the back.

Sorry I havent kept up with the new models. This M package, is it an actual M1 or just sportier options? Does it have a limited slip diff?

Nice.

Adaptive steering reduces the required steering input at speed. Put it this way, at the driving event I went to they set up a cone course with a lot of tight turns. On a car without adaptive steering you had to do the hand-over-hand to turn into some of these tight turns. With adaptive steering you never had to, your hands stayed at 9 o-clock and 3 o-clock.

I believe shuffle steering is the currently recommended technique amongst the cognoscenti.

I don't think it will be an M1. BMW wants to avoid using that name, since it's also the name of the first supercar they created.

http://www.autocult.com.au/img/galle...ueOmata721.jpg

30th Anniversary Tribute:

http://www.zcars.com.au/images/bmw-m1-hommage1.jpg

You're right. With the adaptive steering you don't have to put your hand up to 12 o'clock to turn the wheel. Effectively with the adaptive steering you don't have to move your hands.

The M-package is not an M1 (not yet at least). There are rumours that there will be one but it will likely not carry the M1 moniker as that model already exists (in BMW history). The 135i I got to drive had bigger brakes, bigger wheels, exterior carbon fibre bits, sports seats and sports steering wheel. AFAIK LSDs are still not available, they do everything through software via the traction control systems.

Never, note that trailer hitches are not an easy thing to do on BMW cars. From my research (E46), the European OE hitches are not available here. There are places that ship/import them but you are talking big $$$. Ask about the possibility but you'll likely have to do the roof rack thing.

Also note that all current BMWs run on run-flat tires. This means no spare tire but it also means that replacement tires are more expensive and you will have to factor that in for your winter tire set-up. You can get regular winters on regular wheels but you will either have to put a spare in the trunk or chance it without a spare. That or you get run-flat winter tires, which are pretty expensive.

The M package just comes with different wheels, different seats, some extra black trim, different steering wheel/shoft knob, and some M badges. Nothing major, I just like the split spoke wheel over the base choice.

Wasn't planning on a hitch...might do the roof rack but I think I may just make everyone else drive for once. Alternatively, we just got a new Nissan Sentra SER for my wife...that might be easier to put a small hitch on.

I was planning on winter tires and there's more than enough room in the trunk for a spare...plus the extra weight in the back likely wouldn't hurt.

Yeah, this one resides at a shop here in town:

http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/images/pm1artcar50.jpg

You'd be surprised how well the traction control system works in winter conditions with good winter tires. I have had no problems with my RWD car.

Back in the late '80's, at Limerock, Bmw had all the art cars on display.. it was pretty sweet. I was under the impression that all of those were in the Bmw museum though.

Can you disable the traction control?

Yes, there are two levels of disabling, or three states
- The default is Always On. I use this for regular driving.

- If you press the DSC button once you've turned it partially off. I forget what elements of the entire DSC/ASC system is turned off but this state is what I use when we have deep snowfalls otherwise the DSC just freaks out too much and doesn't let you slide the car at all.

- The final state exists by pressing and holding the DSC button and this turns it off 100% (or just about). This is what I use if I take the car lapping.

The above is a generalization with respect to the DSC system that I am familiar with. There are variances to this. In the E46 M3 CLS and I think also the E46 M3 ZCP (Competition Package) there was a "Track Mode" program for the DSC system. I don't know what the 135i has but suspect it's closer to what I have in my car.

If you find yourself doing long drives to ride.. you may want to drive the bimmer. The bmw rack works great, but I modified mine to use a fork mount instead of leaving the front wheel on. Off to canada..

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...e/IMG_1606.jpg

Traction control OFF!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...t/9d0417d3.jpg

ugh, my sister's boyfriend crashed his dads M1in florida. a great loss of a great car

There was obviously a cone sitting there that needed killing.

Never, if you go with the roof rack thing I recommend you get Rocky Mounts. Dminor was the one who brought them to my attention. They offer a "Euro" version that is compatible with the OE cross members that take slotted bike racks. If you choose to go with Thule cross member, they also offer a Thule compatible one. I am much happier with these than with the OE bike racks.

I like the look of the OE cross members but you're sort of stuck with some roof accessories. I guess it comes down to what you do to carry your skis and if you ever need to carry a kayak. I don't kayak and I use a Thule box for my skis so that works well with the OE cross members.

Actually, we recently took the SER on a 3000 km drive...it was great on the highway and a hell of a lot better on gas than the Pathfinder. Plus it has lots of room for a car that size...the 135 felt smaller inside.

Since I can't ride, I'm going to drive a WRX STI this weekend to see how it compares with the 135. The 135 I chose requires that it be ordered from the factory so that's supposed to be a 2.5 month wait so making a decision right away isn't a huge issue. I could even be healed completely by the time the car would arrive.

2008 Marzocchi 66 ATA troubles. (long winded)

Thoughts anyone? First off, yeah, yeah, it's what I get for buying a new first generation fork and being a Marzocchi test pig/consumer.

My 66 ATA is having a decently loud "click" upon rebound topout. Doesn't matter if it's from a little hit, big hit, me bouncing around on the bike, slow or fast hit, rebound/compression adjustments played with throughout their ranges.

No noise when compressing - just at end of rebound/topout. And it's not harsh in feel, just a click sound. Fork feels fine, just annoying sounding. Can't help but wonder if something is actually wrong/going to break. I'm leery of riding the damn thing at this point. I've not noticed a change in it's performance since fixing the other problems I was having, it's just making a click noise.

The ATA cap is nice and snug (I've heard of this causing noise if loose) and visually inside nothing seems to be broken/worn in an odd way or spot.

1. QR axle loosening-->fatter o-ring has stopped that. Been beating on it for a bit since then, and no sign of loosening. So far.

2. ATA/PAR chambers leaking/equalizing pressure-->removed the IFP so now the air spring side is just one freaking big air chamber. Added ~20ml oil to the bottom of the air chamber to take up the volume lost from the IFP. Swapped in a slightly fatter o-ring today - no change.

I don't really need or use the ATA feature anyhow, so more and more I'm wishing I'd bought a Totem Solo Air, as I loooooove the Lyric Solo Air on my hardtail.



After speaking with Marzocchi on the phone today: Click noise only occurs when running any air in the damper side preload system.

It's one of two things:

1. There is a small spring inside the upper part of the damper shaft that can pop one end free a bit and make noise. Tried doing what the tech suggested to re-seat it, with no change.

2. The damper shaft/topcap interface is not as snug as it should be. Says to shim it slightly where the two bits interface. No dice. Both topcaps are nice and snug where they meet up with the damper/cart rods.

The fork feels very good running all air pressure on the spring side, and none on the preload side. However, with a couple PSI on the preload side, I can run drastically lower pressure on the spring side. I'd rather do that; figure it's better for long term durabilty. If the two fixes don't work, I either live with the click, or all air on the one side run at higher pressure. Either way, they feel it's not any sort of warrantee issue.

According to the tech, no harm done to the fork without the IFP, or running that side with full air in one massive cartridge, or if the two chambers are used, no harm done if the equalize pressure, or don't have the 30PSI differential that Marzocch suggest - they just say it won't work as well as they'd like.

Anyone want to trade a Totem Solo Air for a screwy 08 66 ATA? Yeah, didn't think so. Hell, at this point I might swap it out for a Domain 318IS 180mm even. Same weight...

Sucks to hear scrub.

Sounds like you did your homework scrub, and I unfortunately have no useful input to offer, but I do have an ATA fork on the way, so I am interested...

Out of curiosity, what pressures were you running prior to IFP removal? What pressure now?

I basically haven't ridden my mtb in over a week now, I've either been playing basketball, playing golf or riding my fixed gear. Still waiting on a hub to show up.

helmet cam from snowshoe dh race last weekend. shaky but i've seen worse. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=OrJ78kwQzy4

Happy birthday, you old fart! (Not you, mtnbiker66.)

http://blogs.indiewire.com/mattdentl...ves/canada.gif

http://hawtaction.com/gray-kangaroo.jpg


Wait, what?

I really like Canada.

http://www.losergeek.org/~niklas/bob...d/mtrcbeer.wav

Happy Canada day to my northern bretheren.

Fancy that! ;)

Happy Canada Day.

Me, too.

Wha.....**********? Oh, I thought I had missed a whole year there somewhere.:twitchy: