Building a primitive MTB trail
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member

Joined: Oct 2003
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Building a primitive MTB trail
I would like opinions on the viability of a MTB trail using approx. 200 acres, half pasture and half timber, very hilly, in the SE US.
I've been doing my rides on the road, and have had a few close calls with vehicles, but I have zero off road experience. A few other local people have expressed an interest in cycling, but not on public roads.
I have access to the above property, but wonder if it is large enough to provide a good one to two hour riding session/workout without becoming repetitive/boring.
Also, I wonder what sort of liabilities the owner and I would be facing.
Any input would be appreciated.
I've been doing my rides on the road, and have had a few close calls with vehicles, but I have zero off road experience. A few other local people have expressed an interest in cycling, but not on public roads.
I have access to the above property, but wonder if it is large enough to provide a good one to two hour riding session/workout without becoming repetitive/boring.
Also, I wonder what sort of liabilities the owner and I would be facing.
Any input would be appreciated.
#2
keep moving forward...

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 405
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From: NRH
Bikes: 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX
dude, are you serious, that's quite a chunk you got there. Well you would definitely want to get in touch with IMBA to find out some regualtions as to building proper trails. They should be able to help you with working with the land to be effective and also to create a durable setup. Also, you might want to draw up some kind of release form for people to sign to offset any liability, and also you WILL need some type of insurance for whatever reason.
#3
Just follow the game trails. If you want to go primitive that is IMHO the best way. You can remove low tree branches, just do nothing else. Forget IMBA and there are numerous release forms online that can be printed out and signed by potential riders.
#4
Senior Member

Joined: May 2003
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ahh just get a GPS and a chain saw and some of that flourescent tape, wander around in the woods for a day or two marking out a trail and cutting whatever is in the way, and then when your done, Ride the trail a lot to wear it in. With enough switchbacks and tight winding trail, you could have many many miles of trail by the time your done.
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2003
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Thanks for the feedback guys. This may be more doable than I was thinking. I do have access to a front-end loader and a few implements such as a bush-hog, box blade, disk-harrow; as well as a chainsaw,too.
Actually, the property is VERY hilly, with many streams and a beaver pond as well.
Deer season started on 10/15, this property is posted, but the surrounding property is not. I don't want to get shot while working/riding.
Thanks, again.
Actually, the property is VERY hilly, with many streams and a beaver pond as well.
Deer season started on 10/15, this property is posted, but the surrounding property is not. I don't want to get shot while working/riding.
Thanks, again.
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Perth, Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Colnago Classic, Kona Dr. Dew, Giant ATX 740, Bianchi Strada, Eclipse Time Machine
Originally Posted by RussellM
ahh just get a GPS and a chain saw and some of that flourescent tape, wander around in the woods for a day or two marking out a trail and cutting whatever is in the way, and then when your done, Ride the trail a lot to wear it in. With enough switchbacks and tight winding trail, you could have many many miles of trail by the time your done.
Just my $0.02
#7
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
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From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Originally Posted by darrencope
Actually, I'll have to disagree with this post. There needs to be a lot of thought put into making trails, assuming you want them to last and that you want to protect the environment as much as possible. If you just go in and hack away, you'll very soon have problems with erosion, etc. I would definately look into finding some trail building standards or manuals (possibly online) to help you out.
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
Many dittos to this one. Definately do some examination. Go throguh and analyze runoff...spend time in the rain finding out all runoffs and any potential issues. Mark the trail with tape or something and find these trouble spots and work with them or avoid them (working with them is bridges etc).. Real trail building where the environment is least affected the the enviro people are made happy and the trail is made to be fun and technical takes more planning time then building time.
#8
truthisntalwayswanttohear

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 215
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From: Stone Mountain, Georgia
Bikes: Fuji Crosstown, with seat altered by hacksaw and sports tape
Does it have plenty of rocks sticking out?
I would think it would be ok if not, but a topographical map or something like that would maybe be good to look at, if you made one by hand. Also, you've got a different story without the beavers.
What do you mean by very hilly?
Jacob
I would think it would be ok if not, but a topographical map or something like that would maybe be good to look at, if you made one by hand. Also, you've got a different story without the beavers.
What do you mean by very hilly?
Jacob
#9
Thread Starter
Junior Member

Joined: Oct 2003
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'What do you mean by very hilly?'
The property has many 'hills 'n hollers'. The major stream/creek averages 12' to 15' wide. Each of the many 'hills 'n hollers', has a small stream in the holler feeding into the major stream. The hilltops are probably 80' to 90' above the main stream at their highest points, but there are no sheer drops of this magnitude, just slopes, most are pretty steep, no jutting rocks.
I think by sticking with switchbacks, I can eliminate/minimize erosion.
Thanks for the input...I'm off to Google on bike trails.
The property has many 'hills 'n hollers'. The major stream/creek averages 12' to 15' wide. Each of the many 'hills 'n hollers', has a small stream in the holler feeding into the major stream. The hilltops are probably 80' to 90' above the main stream at their highest points, but there are no sheer drops of this magnitude, just slopes, most are pretty steep, no jutting rocks.
I think by sticking with switchbacks, I can eliminate/minimize erosion.
Thanks for the input...I'm off to Google on bike trails.





