![]() |
riding again and looking for a bike
Hello All,
Can I get some suggestions on which bike (Hard Tail) to buy for ~$500ish. What do you guys think about the Giant Iguana? How do I measure for the correct size? I'm only 5'7" :o , would an 17.5" or 18" fit me? Regards John |
specialized rockhopper, i recommend. nice components, even sweeter frame
|
17.5 or 18 is big for 5'7"
|
Gary Fisher Marlin
|
Originally Posted by kevntri
17.5 or 18 is big for 5'7"
|
Guys, height has NOTHING to do with bike sizing. You don't ride your bike standing upright!
You have to measure your inseam, and then determine your torsoe length. I'm 6'0", but I've got these short stubby legs and a long torsoe. I ride a Medium. (17" frame). On my road bike, I ride either a 54cm or a 55cm frame. It also depends on the manufacture and the rider's style. I like smaller frames on my mountain bike due to my BMX background. On my road bike, I like to be more stretched out. The whole "straddle the bike and check for 2" of clearence in your crotch" is another misconception. It's a good starting point, but if your "boys" are touching, and you prefer the top tube length of the frame, then that's the one you ride. You really have to test ride as many different bikes as possible to determine what is best for you and your style. If you don't know, you will after about your 10th test ride! L8R |
I'm 5'9" and my Giant IguanaSE is 21.5". Okay, so maybe this is an extreme example (my other bike is 17" and it fits a lot better), but actually ride the bike before you decide on a frame size.
BTW, the Iguana is a great choice. Real sweet frame. |
:O....5'9 and 21.5 ... my god... I would be wearing a cup or something.
|
I'm 5'8" and my Giant Iguana has a 19" TT.
My next bike will definitely have a shorter TT. Other than that, I love my Iguana. |
For $500 is get this an be happy!
http://www.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/...oDiscred_l.jpg What size frame should you choose? Choosing the right frame size goes a long way toward enhancing your riding experience. Unfortunately, different manufacturers measure their frames in different ways - so a 19" frame from manufacturer A may vary wildly in size from a 19" frame from manufacturer B. Frames are commonly measured in two ways: from the center of the bottom bracket, along the seatube, to the center of the top tube (called "center to center"); and from the center of the bottom bracket, along the seat tube, to the top of the top tube (called "center to top"). You'll need to determine how the frame you're interested in is measured to determine the proper size. Mountain bikes are measured in inches, while road bikes are typically measured in centimeters. The right frame for you is one that is small enough to allow proper standover height, while still allowing the seat to be raised high enough for athletic pedaling. |
|
But for probably for a little more than $500 I'd get this:
http://www.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/...drockPro_l.jpg |
Originally Posted by Maelstrom
:O....5'9 and 21.5 ... my god... I would be wearing a cup or something.
|
hey everyone im new to the forum.... im looking to get an urban/trail/jump bike. ill be doing a lot of single track riding but the bike should be somewhat huckable. my original plan was to do a build but with my cash flow itll take me forever and i want to get in on this season. i was thinking the hard rock pro disc but at that price might as well go for the p.2.... any suggestions for .... eh i hate giving price ranges because i want the best haha... just give me some suggestions on a good begginer huckable bike (keep in mind ive been riding bmx for yearssss so this bike will be taking some punishment). thanks.
|
jpel85, yea get: http://www.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/...kes/04P2_l.jpg And be happy you did.
Originally Posted by jpel85
hey everyone im new to the forum.... im looking to get an urban/trail/jump bike. ill be doing a lot of single track riding but the bike should be somewhat huckable. my original plan was to do a build but with my cash flow itll take me forever and i want to get in on this season. i was thinking the hard rock pro disc but at that price might as well go for the p.2.... any suggestions for .... eh i hate giving price ranges because i want the best haha... just give me some suggestions on a good begginer huckable bike (keep in mind ive been riding bmx for yearssss so this bike will be taking some punishment). thanks.
|
yeah thats what im thinking now^^^... i like the geometry a lot better on the p series. it has a better bmx feel i think. the gearing is also nice on the p.2
|
Originally Posted by jpel85
yeah thats what im thinking now^^^... i like the geometry a lot better on the p series. it has a better bmx feel i think. the gearing is also nice on the p.2
|
Originally Posted by pual
Good luck pedaling a P2 on the trails. That is unless you like kneeing yourself in the face. The P2 does have a BMX feel like you said...who the hell would want to ride a BMX on trails?! If you want a burly hardtail for trailriding I'd look more at the Hardrock series if you're set on specialized. If you want to do more DJ/urban then P2 is the way to go.
|
The p2 is fine. I know more than enough riders who ride them on trails. Tall seatpost and you are good to go :)
PErsonally I only buy specialized or Kona at this point. After much testings I don't think other big bike companies offer what I am looking for in a bike generally. (ironhorse does too but I can't get them here)... |
I have a 2004 Kona Scrap and I cannot ride it on trails. Even with the seatpost at its highest (it's really long and it looks ridiculous) I can't get enough extension and I fatigue very quickly. The P2 geometry would be even worse. Maybe in BC it's easier because you're going downhill mostly and you can be off the seat for the majority of the ride. In Ontario we don't have that luxury ;)
|
i have my seat waaay lower than it probly should be (im 6'2) and i can ride for hours.... but then again, i rode bmx for a couple or so years...
|
Originally Posted by pual
I have a 2004 Kona Scrap and I cannot ride it on trails. Even with the seatpost at its highest (it's really long and it looks ridiculous) I can't get enough extension and I fatigue very quickly. The P2 geometry would be even worse. Maybe in BC it's easier because you're going downhill mostly and you can be off the seat for the majority of the ride. In Ontario we don't have that luxury ;)
|
One quick thought, those knobby gnarly mountain bike tires are dreadfully slow on pavement. It's faster to get off and run along side your bike. If you will be doing more pavement than trail, consider a modified street slick.
|
Applehead57 One quick thought, those knobby gnarly mountain bike tires are dreadfully slow on pavement. It's faster to get off and run along side your bike. If you will be doing more pavement than trail, consider a modified street slick. im starting to lean towards the specialized hardrock comp now cuz its about 200 less than the p.2 and it still has decent components and a solid frame. at this point i just want something to get started on and i will just upgrade as i break stuff :lol:. anyone have objections or suggestions. |
I'd stick with a bike like the P.2 or Kona Scrap or ????
I rode BMX for years and if you are used to riding a 20" bike, the position will be similar. Actually it'll be closer to riding a 24" cruiser. I had a 2000 P.3, and I used to call it my BMX bike on Steroids. I used to ride it on XC trails all the time! L8R |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:27 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.