riding again and looking for a bike
#1
Thread Starter
Newbie

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1
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riding again and looking for a bike
Hello All,
Can I get some suggestions on which bike (Hard Tail) to buy for ~$500ish. What do you guys think about the Giant Iguana? How do I measure for the correct size? I'm only 5'7"
, would an 17.5" or 18" fit me?
Regards
John
Can I get some suggestions on which bike (Hard Tail) to buy for ~$500ish. What do you guys think about the Giant Iguana? How do I measure for the correct size? I'm only 5'7"
, would an 17.5" or 18" fit me?Regards
John
#6
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,963
Likes: 1
From: Parrish, FL
Bikes: Lots
Guys, height has NOTHING to do with bike sizing. You don't ride your bike standing upright!
You have to measure your inseam, and then determine your torsoe length.
I'm 6'0", but I've got these short stubby legs and a long torsoe. I ride a Medium. (17" frame).
On my road bike, I ride either a 54cm or a 55cm frame.
It also depends on the manufacture and the rider's style.
I like smaller frames on my mountain bike due to my BMX background. On my road bike, I like to be more stretched out.
The whole "straddle the bike and check for 2" of clearence in your crotch" is another misconception. It's a good starting point, but if your "boys" are touching, and you prefer the top tube length of the frame, then that's the one you ride.
You really have to test ride as many different bikes as possible to determine what is best for you and your style. If you don't know, you will after about your 10th test ride!
L8R
You have to measure your inseam, and then determine your torsoe length.
I'm 6'0", but I've got these short stubby legs and a long torsoe. I ride a Medium. (17" frame).
On my road bike, I ride either a 54cm or a 55cm frame.
It also depends on the manufacture and the rider's style.
I like smaller frames on my mountain bike due to my BMX background. On my road bike, I like to be more stretched out.
The whole "straddle the bike and check for 2" of clearence in your crotch" is another misconception. It's a good starting point, but if your "boys" are touching, and you prefer the top tube length of the frame, then that's the one you ride.
You really have to test ride as many different bikes as possible to determine what is best for you and your style. If you don't know, you will after about your 10th test ride!
L8R
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
#7
It's all about XC.

Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
I'm 5'9" and my Giant IguanaSE is 21.5". Okay, so maybe this is an extreme example (my other bike is 17" and it fits a lot better), but actually ride the bike before you decide on a frame size.
BTW, the Iguana is a great choice. Real sweet frame.
BTW, the Iguana is a great choice. Real sweet frame.
#10
For $500 is get this an be happy!
What size frame should you choose?
Choosing the right frame size goes a long way toward enhancing your riding experience. Unfortunately, different manufacturers measure their frames in different ways - so a 19" frame from manufacturer A may vary wildly in size from a 19" frame from manufacturer B.
Frames are commonly measured in two ways: from the center of the bottom bracket, along the seatube, to the center of the top tube (called "center to center"); and from the center of the bottom bracket, along the seat tube, to the top of the top tube (called "center to top"). You'll need to determine how the frame you're interested in is measured to determine the proper size.
Mountain bikes are measured in inches, while road bikes are typically measured in centimeters. The right frame for you is one that is small enough to allow proper standover height, while still allowing the seat to be raised high enough for athletic pedaling.
What size frame should you choose?
Choosing the right frame size goes a long way toward enhancing your riding experience. Unfortunately, different manufacturers measure their frames in different ways - so a 19" frame from manufacturer A may vary wildly in size from a 19" frame from manufacturer B.
Frames are commonly measured in two ways: from the center of the bottom bracket, along the seatube, to the center of the top tube (called "center to center"); and from the center of the bottom bracket, along the seat tube, to the top of the top tube (called "center to top"). You'll need to determine how the frame you're interested in is measured to determine the proper size.
Mountain bikes are measured in inches, while road bikes are typically measured in centimeters. The right frame for you is one that is small enough to allow proper standover height, while still allowing the seat to be raised high enough for athletic pedaling.
#14
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Bikes: specialized p.2, schwinn predator, to be built ss road/track machine.
hey everyone im new to the forum.... im looking to get an urban/trail/jump bike. ill be doing a lot of single track riding but the bike should be somewhat huckable. my original plan was to do a build but with my cash flow itll take me forever and i want to get in on this season. i was thinking the hard rock pro disc but at that price might as well go for the p.2.... any suggestions for .... eh i hate giving price ranges because i want the best haha... just give me some suggestions on a good begginer huckable bike (keep in mind ive been riding bmx for yearssss so this bike will be taking some punishment). thanks.
Last edited by jpel85; 04-08-04 at 08:23 PM.
#15
jpel85, yea get:
And be happy you did.
And be happy you did.
Originally Posted by jpel85
hey everyone im new to the forum.... im looking to get an urban/trail/jump bike. ill be doing a lot of single track riding but the bike should be somewhat huckable. my original plan was to do a build but with my cash flow itll take me forever and i want to get in on this season. i was thinking the hard rock pro disc but at that price might as well go for the p.2.... any suggestions for .... eh i hate giving price ranges because i want the best haha... just give me some suggestions on a good begginer huckable bike (keep in mind ive been riding bmx for yearssss so this bike will be taking some punishment). thanks.
#16
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Bikes: specialized p.2, schwinn predator, to be built ss road/track machine.
yeah thats what im thinking now^^^... i like the geometry a lot better on the p series. it has a better bmx feel i think. the gearing is also nice on the p.2
#17
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by jpel85
yeah thats what im thinking now^^^... i like the geometry a lot better on the p series. it has a better bmx feel i think. the gearing is also nice on the p.2
#18
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Bikes: specialized p.2, schwinn predator, to be built ss road/track machine.
Originally Posted by pual
Good luck pedaling a P2 on the trails. That is unless you like kneeing yourself in the face. The P2 does have a BMX feel like you said...who the hell would want to ride a BMX on trails?! If you want a burly hardtail for trailriding I'd look more at the Hardrock series if you're set on specialized. If you want to do more DJ/urban then P2 is the way to go.
. im not really set on specialized either. i'm open to any suggestions. so dish out any ideas you have.
#19
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
Likes: 2
From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
The p2 is fine. I know more than enough riders who ride them on trails. Tall seatpost and you are good to go
PErsonally I only buy specialized or Kona at this point. After much testings I don't think other big bike companies offer what I am looking for in a bike generally. (ironhorse does too but I can't get them here)...
PErsonally I only buy specialized or Kona at this point. After much testings I don't think other big bike companies offer what I am looking for in a bike generally. (ironhorse does too but I can't get them here)...
#20
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Ontario, Canada
I have a 2004 Kona Scrap and I cannot ride it on trails. Even with the seatpost at its highest (it's really long and it looks ridiculous) I can't get enough extension and I fatigue very quickly. The P2 geometry would be even worse. Maybe in BC it's easier because you're going downhill mostly and you can be off the seat for the majority of the ride. In Ontario we don't have that luxury
#22
Wood Licker


Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 16,966
Likes: 2
From: Whistler,BC
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Originally Posted by pual
I have a 2004 Kona Scrap and I cannot ride it on trails. Even with the seatpost at its highest (it's really long and it looks ridiculous) I can't get enough extension and I fatigue very quickly. The P2 geometry would be even worse. Maybe in BC it's easier because you're going downhill mostly and you can be off the seat for the majority of the ride. In Ontario we don't have that luxury 

#23
slower than you

Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
From: dairy country NY
Bikes: Gunnar Road Sport, peugeot UO-10
One quick thought, those knobby gnarly mountain bike tires are dreadfully slow on pavement. It's faster to get off and run along side your bike. If you will be doing more pavement than trail, consider a modified street slick.
#24
Senior Member

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Bikes: specialized p.2, schwinn predator, to be built ss road/track machine.
Applehead57 One quick thought, those knobby gnarly mountain bike tires are dreadfully slow on pavement. It's faster to get off and run along side your bike. If you will be doing more pavement than trail, consider a modified street slick.
im starting to lean towards the specialized hardrock comp now cuz its about 200 less than the p.2 and it still has decent components and a solid frame. at this point i just want something to get started on and i will just upgrade as i break stuff
. anyone have objections or suggestions.
Last edited by jpel85; 04-19-04 at 11:58 PM.
#25
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,963
Likes: 1
From: Parrish, FL
Bikes: Lots
I'd stick with a bike like the P.2 or Kona Scrap or ????
I rode BMX for years and if you are used to riding a 20" bike, the position will be similar. Actually it'll be closer to riding a 24" cruiser.
I had a 2000 P.3, and I used to call it my BMX bike on Steroids. I used to ride it on XC trails all the time!
L8R
I rode BMX for years and if you are used to riding a 20" bike, the position will be similar. Actually it'll be closer to riding a 24" cruiser.
I had a 2000 P.3, and I used to call it my BMX bike on Steroids. I used to ride it on XC trails all the time!
L8R
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger




