-Stretch-

i wanna build a catapult that fires old crappy cds at like 20 per minute haha, then i could get rid of all the crappy dance mix 90's cds i have...god i can't believe i used to listen to that crap...

jeff williams

What was the original question?

who cares..Yardapault. Set those C.D.s on fire..FIRE!!!!!!

Funkychicken

potatoes? if i built a catapult i'd fling chickens first to let them fly free...

*ahem* alright my 2c - kingkelly aside from the theory of different suspension designs and what cancels out pedal bob etc, look for something that is not overly complex, i'd shy away from some of the really crazy designs - just b/c they're expensive doesnt mean they're all good. i second (third? fourth?) the comments made about the horst link and the "faux bar". heck, even single pivots are good now with a little lock-out.

sparks_219 

Looking at the specialized with the SPV valving on the back, is anyone but me worried about the SPV vavle being ripped off during a crash????

Raiyn

I presume you're talking about the Epic? I haven't heard of anybody ripping the brain off of one - doesn't mean it couldn't happen it's just highly unlikely.

ProFlexer

I think I might have that Catapult bike your talking about. If you remember the early Pro-Flex's where the rear suspension was right behind the seat. Oh-Yeah, Feels good.

Maelstrom 

Hmmm post a pic?

Al.canoe

Normally I do extensive research before I buy anything expensive. However, I bought my Specialized FSR Stumpjumper kind of on the spur of the moment due to the $300 discount and the fact that the bike shop would buy back $150 of stuff on it I didn't want. Now, after about a year with the bike, close to 700 miles and some after the fact study, here is what I think are important in selecting a full suspension bike.

Most important to me is to have roller or ball bearings, with rubber vice stainless-steel seals (part of the bearing's construction) at all frame pivots. Rubber seals keep out the water far better than steel. They also make the bearing more expensive. I priced them individually from a local bearing shop; the Specialized price for the whole set is very fair. This does not include the shock-ends as these are always bushings and are easy and cheap to replace. The Stumpjumper has 10 such rubber-sealed ball bearings (some pivot-points use two side by side).

Off-road riding is tough on bikes and especially on bushings. It would be a real pain to maintain a bunch of bushings on the frame. I've already had to replace the shock bushings. If you don't ride much, then you can probably do with bushings, but I wouldn't.

Second most important to me is the absorption of all bumps (large and small) and doing that with out affecting the handling. The Specialized design is the most comfortable and has the least handling impact when it compresses/expands according to what I've read. I just know from riding one that it's very comfortable; otherwise I can't tell that it's back there. Handling on bumps in turns is better than my old hard tail with a Cane Creek shock absorbing seat post. It's also been out there since the early '90s so it's held it's own against the competition very well. However, it's more complicated,expensive and requires the most maintenance, especially before they switched to sealed bearings. It also tends to be heavier than the other options. It's licensed, so it's available from many other manufacturers in different forms.

In the bump category, I prefer the air shock vice coil spring because it is more comfortable. A lot more maintenance though. Fox requires that you pull it off the bike and clean the innards every 20 hours and replace the seals once in a while. A good idea as the air shocks are very expensive to buy and to factory overhaul.

In my case, the fork was not all that important. To meet their price target ($1630 list) for my model, Specialized put a very cheap fork on it. The $'s went to the frame, wheels (they are light), hydraulic discs and a Fox shock which at the time listed for over $350. The fork was really bad and self destructed in about 6 months. I only do xc and don't do jumps. I didn't really care as very little of the bikes original cost went into the fork. I put a nice Fox air fork on it and now have the best of all worlds.

The position of the shock by the way may not be too relevant. You can move the shock around and have the same design/results with different linkage.

Al

FatBomber

I like the feel and ride of my Jekyll, but my Dad raves, and is quite quick, on his Blur.

Two very different types of FS, yet both very effective.

mtnbiker66

So you should look for a good FSR type susp. with the built in potato cannon? Tell me who makes that one an I'm buying it today!!!

khuon

Actually I think the old Pro-Flex suspension system was quite good for what it was designed to do. Yes, it's a monopivot design but Pro-Flex did a decent job of figuring out where to place the pivot. I find that my OzM's suspension works quite well and the active-damping does eliminate most of the bobbing whenb out of the saddle. The bike I think most people are referring to when they talk about the "catapult" is the Softride Powercurve XC.

Maelstrom 

That would be the one...although the one my friend has has a much shorter seat haha

ProFlexer

Your right (khuon), thats the bike. I apolagize to anybody associated with Pro-Flex in the early '90s for my statement. My bike is actually a good bike that has held up quite well.
The only real problem is I have had to replace the elastamers in the back twice since I bought the bike in '93. That in itself is no big deal, but keep in mind that Pro-Flex is no longer in business. They were bought by K-2 bikes, and although they still carry the suspension parts I need I was informed by someone there that they wouldn't for much longer.