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Old 01-28-13, 03:41 PM
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I'm planning to get a bike. It'll be an occasional 2 or 3 time a week commute. 5.5 miles either way. I'm quite certain I don't want to spend anymore than 200-300$ on it. I could buy one from Craigslist but I'm not the most experienced around..and a guy at a shop I went to said that there are many stolen bikes on there. I thought of getting one from Target but the 2 bike shops I went to said they were awful. So... ..one of the shops I went to (proper bike shop) is giving me the Torker Alpental for around 270$ (https://www.torkerusa.com/bikes/recre...12-alpental-26) and said he'd tell me a bit about maintenance of the bike as well. I do want to learn how to maintain my bike myself. What works out cheaper though? Target bike + Bike maintenance course? OR the slightly more expensive Torker Alpental? Is the price of the Torker reasonable? What about the deal itself? I'm around 5'9" and have been riding a borrowed Trek Navigator 300 now and then. Thanks
commuting 2-3 /week on a bike will net you quite a bit of riding. Definitely worth it to get something better than target bike which will cost your in the long run. Even the $300 price point. Think, if you get a lighter faster more comfortable setup, you may ride it 3-4 times more/month than a lesser bike. It wouldn't take long for the saved gas + health benefits to save you in the long run.

If you're serious about 2-3 times per week, If I were you , I would look around craigslist for a cyclocross/hybrid bike (no front suspension fork) that is 3-5 years old and boost the budget up to $300-$500. You can ask us on here what it's worth. Keep in mind that 90%+ of Craigslist stuff is overpriced, but you can offer a reasonable price. vast majority are not stolen. you can find most bikes here https://www.bikepedia.com/#&panel1-1

That torker bike looks heavy, but it's much better than no bike. Your concern for maintenance is right. maintenance will cost more than the initial cost of the bike. Depending on what your time is worth, you may want to get some tools and youtube to learn basic maintenance. gear changing (derailleur) adjustment only takes a philips screwdriver in most cases.

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Old 01-28-13, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Ldosorio
Hi, I want to change my bike (2005 Giant XTC) and will go for 29er.
These are the options I have short listed: 2012 Cannondale Flash-3 and 2013 Specialized Carve Comp. both are new bikes and have basically the same configuration: rockshox Recon Gold front suspension, 3x10 Deore/SLX (Flash) vs 2x10 X5/X7(Carve) group. And the same price.
Is the year of manufacturing important? Does 2x10 really makes my life easier?
Any suggestion or comment on this regard will be appreciated.
I would ask this question in the mtbr forums as their are more mtn bikers over there.

are you sure you want 29er? I personally think they are way overrated, especially for people under 5"9. Even adopters acknowledge they are not as agile, harder to wheelie, bunny hop, etc. They may be faster in certain conditions, but we're on the trails for fun, right? Also, keep in mind those 29ers are probably heavier than your current 26er. 29er have a real weight penalty in the low to midtier category.

I've read that the mid tier drivetrains (the ones you're looking at) are better/reliable from Shimano vs sram.

2012 vs 2013, 2012 will usually be better because you can get more discounts on the older year.

2x10 vs 3x10 is a personal decision depending on what you ride. Do you regularly use all 3 for front chainrings with your bike? It really doen't matter, you need to measure your gear ratio if you really want to to get into it. https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios . I know I could never give up my ultra granny gear on the riding I do. 2x10 is not easier, it's actually harder. The reason to do it is for weight savings (talking elitist

Also, to throw a wrench, have you consider upgrading components on your bike vs buying new. Unless you can put 2 bikes to good use, I would strongly consider upgrading your current bike. Reba forks can be had in the $350 range (check deal section at mtbr). lighter wheelset, then maybe lighter cranks. If you're going this route, make a post over there asking for the best ways to lighten and improve your current ride.
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Old 02-05-13, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bob13bob
commuting 2-3 /week on a bike will net you quite a bit of riding. Definitely worth it to get something better than target bike which will cost your in the long run. Even the $300 price point. Think, if you get a lighter faster more comfortable setup, you may ride it 3-4 times more/month than a lesser bike. It wouldn't take long for the saved gas + health benefits to save you in the long run.

If you're serious about 2-3 times per week, If I were you , I would look around craigslist for a cyclocross/hybrid bike (no front suspension fork) that is 3-5 years old and boost the budget up to $300-$500. You can ask us on here what it's worth. Keep in mind that 90%+ of Craigslist stuff is overpriced, but you can offer a reasonable price. vast majority are not stolen. you can find most bikes here https://www.bikepedia.com/#&panel1-1

That torker bike looks heavy, but it's much better than no bike. Your concern for maintenance is right. maintenance will cost more than the initial cost of the bike. Depending on what your time is worth, you may want to get some tools and youtube to learn basic maintenance. gear changing (derailleur) adjustment only takes a philips screwdriver in most cases.
Thank you bob13bob. I saw this after I bought the torker bike . I rode 7 miles 1 day and did my usual 5.5 mile commute both ways once. It's fairly comfortable..17 inch frame..and it's lighter than the Trek Navigator 300 I was riding. The guy taught me a little bit on how to change tyre tubes, put the chain back on and fit the tires in. Also told me some good info about the chain slipping off usually on 1 side, the use and advantages of a bicycle stand (on which he mounted the bike), using a hand pump...and fitting on lights. All very nice info. All inclusive..it came up to around 318$. I need to buy a helmet though (45 - 50$ is what the shop had..i'm looking out for a cheaper one if its good enough) and maybe a front light. That'll take it up to around 400$.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 02-05-13, 04:41 PM
  #354  
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Congrats, live_dont_exist! Sorry I missed your earlier question but it looks like you got things sorted out and are on your way.

Yes, that's the correct REI. I did some checking and it looks like their bike maintenance classes usually don't start around here until about April. Keep an eye on the 'Events' calendar at your Boston-area store.
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Old 02-07-13, 12:13 AM
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Thanks dminor..I will. By events...do you mean specific to cycling in that store? .. or something like this - https://calendar.boston.com. I'm guessing it's the former.
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Old 02-07-13, 09:04 AM
  #356  
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The specific store's calendar:

https://www.rei.com/stores/boston.html#classesAndEvents

Check the 'cycling' box and you'll see there are Bike Maintenance Basics classes March 12 & 21 with open slots that you can sign up for.


. . . and no, I'm not an REI employee. But a good friend, who happens to be the best wrench in Spokane, works at at our local REI and conducts some of their classes. They usually hire some pretty good employees and have a good retention rate on their staff, so the instruction should be pretty good anywhere.
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Old 02-07-13, 05:42 PM
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Okay thank you very much . That's a really nice link for a lot of things. Are there other places (if I may ask on this forum) where one can find a list of sporting activities to do? I'm new in the USA hence I ask.

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Old 02-13-13, 12:32 PM
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What kind of reputation does, generally, Giant mtb bikes have? I dont read much on them in the threads, thanks.

Benny
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Old 02-13-13, 01:23 PM
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are you sure you want 29er? I personally think they are way overrated, especially for people under 5"9. Even adopters acknowledge they are not as agile, harder to wheelie, bunny hop, etc. They may be faster in certain conditions, but we're on the trails for fun, right? Also, keep in mind those 29ers are probably heavier than your current 26er. 29er have a real weight penalty in the low to midtier category.
Thanks for your advice, I am 6"3 and small wheels (26") don't look nice in a big frame (21"), so I still think the 29er would be a good option.
About 2x10 vs 3x10, I made the comparison using https://gear-calculator.com and found 2x10 will be enough; however the last bike I was looking: TREK X-Caliber comes with SRAM X7 3x10 drivetrain.

have you consider upgrading components on your bike vs buying new.
The bike I got at this moment was a gift from a friend that was not using it anymore -actually I already changed the RD, cassette, chain and pedals-, and it is too small for me, so to upgrade it I would need to start thinking to change Frame and Fork... that's why I am considering to buy a new one.
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Old 02-14-13, 02:19 AM
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Hi, I recently got hooked into trail riding. Last week I rode a trail for the first time with my 8 yrs. old mongoose. I find that enjoy climbing, sharp turns, and descending. After two hrs. on the trail, my back and knees took a beating. I did a lot of research and narrowed down to Jamis '13 Dakar 650 comp. before I pull the trigger, I would like to hear some opinions in regarding to my decision. Thanks.
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Old 02-14-13, 03:05 PM
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Can't answer for that specific model but the Jamis Dakar in one form or another has been a staple for a number of years.; and the 650b size seems to me to be the best of both worlds. I think it's a choice you can feel pretty good about.
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Old 02-19-13, 01:37 PM
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I mentioned earlier on this forum that I'm saving up for a mountain bike. Well, I'm still saving, but that doesn't stop me from window shopping

Work schedule at the moment doesn't allow me to go to the LBS, so I'm still looking online. The BD bikes look good, but - I'm not too sure about the mechanical disc brakes. If I buy BD, I have no LBS support - so I would prefer V-brakes. Does anyone know any other online sellers like BD who don't have disc brakes, but are still reasonably decent? Know a few folks who bought BD, and they are happy - but all the BD mountain bikes have disc brakes.

On a related note - does anyone do trail riding on the older, rigid fork mtbs like the steel hardrock/stumpjumpers of the 80s? I saw a really good condition frameset for $100, and it would be fun to build up slowly with parts off ebay - but I suspect it won't really be useful, will it? Point to remember - I'm going to be an awful novice!

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Old 02-19-13, 02:40 PM
  #363  
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Mechanical disc brakes are almost as simple as hydros and much simpler and far better than vees - - don't be afraid of them.

$100 for an old frameset? Too much. I sold an old steel Hardrock frame not too long ago for $25...that's more like it.
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Old 02-19-13, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bennybenny
What kind of reputation does, generally, Giant mtb bikes have? I dont read much on them in the threads, thanks.

Benny
Giant has a solid rep.
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Old 02-20-13, 12:42 PM
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A friend of mine is ordering from Bikesdirect next week (he's just waiting for the credit card to roll over ) - a hybrid with a suspension fork and disc brakes, so I'll get to see BD shipping and assembly personally. Makes me feel better about making the decision w.r.t BD - one way or the other.
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Old 02-26-13, 11:15 PM
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just bought a 2013 trek mamba a few weeks ago. its my first mountain bike. i havnt done any serious riding yet, being winter in wisconsin the trails are in full of snow, or they are all muddy from it melting on warm days.

i still have the stock plastic pedals. im looking to upgrade. On my road bike i ride clipless, and i love riding that way. but im hesitant on going clipless for my mountain bike. i want to be able to move my feet off the pedal and brace for sharp turns without having to unclip or fail to unclip and have an accident. Especially with being on a new terrain ive never ridden before.

What are good platform pedals? Would like to keep it on the cheap end as well.
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Old 02-26-13, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Psynide
just bought a 2013 trek mamba a few weeks ago. its my first mountain bike. i havnt done any serious riding yet, being winter in wisconsin the trails are in full of snow, or they are all muddy from it melting on warm days.

i still have the stock plastic pedals. im looking to upgrade. On my road bike i ride clipless, and i love riding that way. but im hesitant on going clipless for my mountain bike. i want to be able to move my feet off the pedal and brace for sharp turns without having to unclip or fail to unclip and have an accident. Especially with being on a new terrain ive never ridden before.

What are good platform pedals? Would like to keep it on the cheap end as well.
Define cheap, because on the cheap side, you get plastic pedals and two peice ones that will fall apart.

You will have to start at around the $35 area for a good platform, because a really good platform will go for well over $100.

I would look at these. https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0052_549650_-1
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Old 02-27-13, 06:50 PM
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probably 50 or less, preferred. i dont know anything about pedals, do pins like those ruin the bottom of shoes?

and would i make do with basic shoes, like vans?
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Old 03-01-13, 10:30 AM
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I got a set of these per recommendation from another moderator (Zephyr) & they've been perfect for me. Not the prettiest, but they do the job & do it well.

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...?ModelID=62319

Also, I wear an old worn out pair of Adidas & they still grip well enough that I practically have to lift my foot to turn it. The waffle soul Vans grip especially well, but any skate type shoe will do.

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Old 03-05-13, 11:18 PM
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Noob here. Looking for some advice to replace the chainrings on my 2011 29er Stumpjumper FSR Comp. The specs are as follows: Crankset Custom SRAM S-1250, 10 speed XC Trail double, GXP spindle, XC guard, 175 mm. Chainrings are 22A/33A XC shift guard, 4 bolt, 104/64mm. Looking not to upgrade but stay the same. My chain wear is about 1 so I was thinking about changing my chainrings and cassette. Any advice appreciated. Remember,,,,,Noob here.

Jason
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Old 03-11-13, 02:06 AM
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You will have to start at around the $35 area for a good platform, because a really good platform will go for well over $100.

I would look at these. https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0052_549650_-1
wellgo mg1, cheap, relatively light, strong, sealed bearrings. $35-40 shipped on ebay and other sources. They good. there are lighter cooler looking pedals, but lighter often means more fragile.
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Old 03-11-13, 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JKwock
Noob here. Looking for some advice to replace the chainrings on my 2011 29er Stumpjumper FSR Comp. The specs are as follows: Crankset Custom SRAM S-1250, 10 speed XC Trail double, GXP spindle, XC guard, 175 mm. Chainrings are 22A/33A XC shift guard, 4 bolt, 104/64mm. Looking not to upgrade but stay the same. My chain wear is about 1 so I was thinking about changing my chainrings and cassette. Any advice appreciated. Remember,,,,,Noob here.

Jason
I would definitely post in this tooltime subforum at mtbr. too specific to be addressed in this thread. A picture closed up for your chainrings might be hlepful.
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Old 03-11-13, 02:09 AM
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Mechanical disc brakes are almost as simple as hydros and much simpler and far better than vees - - don't be afraid of them.
mechanicals are way easier and consistent than hydros. Hydros can't be a real pita.
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Old 03-11-13, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by treadtread
A friend of mine is ordering from Bikesdirect next week (he's just waiting for the credit card to roll over ) - a hybrid with a suspension fork and disc brakes, so I'll get to see BD shipping and assembly personally. Makes me feel better about making the decision w.r.t BD - one way or the other.
for buying new bikes. BD, airborne, sette, or other online brands are where the value is at. Hardtails basically perform similarly to all brands of any hardtail genre. Get the bike that gives you the best components/$ spent.
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Old 03-11-13, 03:35 PM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by bob13bob
mechanicals are way easier and consistent than hydros.
Utter baloney.
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