which spokes for disc wheels? Comps or Revos?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Poland
which spokes for disc wheels? Comps or Revos?
I am just about to order a new set of wheels...
These will be built on DT Swiss Hugi Disc hubs (I got a great price) and Mavic x717 rims.
The only problem are the spokes and niples. I have two choices:
- get revolutions (not as strong but light, not recommended for disc wheels)
- get competition (heavier but reliable, not that much less expensive)
and niples - alu or brass for disc wheels?
My type of riding is marathons and cross country. I ride 1000-2000 miles offroad on my mtb per year.
I weigh about 158 lbs. Am I weight weenie - yes to some extent - but have limited budget and would not go "all the way" to lighten a bike. Durability of parts is important for me
What would you recommend - lighter (strong enough?) or not as heavy but v. strong spokes
Thanks for your help.
These will be built on DT Swiss Hugi Disc hubs (I got a great price) and Mavic x717 rims.
The only problem are the spokes and niples. I have two choices:
- get revolutions (not as strong but light, not recommended for disc wheels)
- get competition (heavier but reliable, not that much less expensive)
and niples - alu or brass for disc wheels?
My type of riding is marathons and cross country. I ride 1000-2000 miles offroad on my mtb per year.
I weigh about 158 lbs. Am I weight weenie - yes to some extent - but have limited budget and would not go "all the way" to lighten a bike. Durability of parts is important for me
What would you recommend - lighter (strong enough?) or not as heavy but v. strong spokes
Thanks for your help.
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,963
Likes: 1
From: Parrish, FL
Bikes: Lots
Stick with the Competitions.
Use brass nipples.
The debate between alum. or brass nipps is that brass is stronger and is easier to true. Alum is the weak link and will break vs. pulling a spoke out. However, alum tends to corrode and makes subsequent truing difficult.
I prefer brass.
Use brass nipples.
The debate between alum. or brass nipps is that brass is stronger and is easier to true. Alum is the weak link and will break vs. pulling a spoke out. However, alum tends to corrode and makes subsequent truing difficult.
I prefer brass.
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 7,963
Likes: 1
From: Parrish, FL
Bikes: Lots
Oh yeah, 3 cross lacing pattern ONLY with disc wheelsets.
__________________
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
"Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
From: GA
Bikes: '95 Klein Attitude and Quantum, '92 Trek 830
Originally Posted by a2psyklnut
The debate between alum. or brass nipps is that brass is stronger and is easier to true. Alum is the weak link and will break vs. pulling a spoke out. However, alum tends to corrode and makes subsequent truing difficult.
I prefer brass.
I prefer brass.
I have a pair of wheels that are 14 years old (rims and hubs) and the current spokes/nipples are probably 5 years old for the front wheel and 8 years old for the rear (long story for the front wheel...). Both are built with DT Revolution spokes and aluminum nipples. I would personally rather the nipple break than the spoke pull out and ruining the rim. I've never had a problem with the Al nipples corroding and making truing difficult. $0.02
Oh, and 3X is definitely a good choice!
#5
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
#6
By-Tor...or the Snow Dog?
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6,479
Likes: 0
From: Ma
Bikes: Bianchi Cross Concept, Flyte Srs-3
wait, i am new, but isnt a disk wheel a disc , or am i missing something you know the time trial/ tri wheels.
__________________
-------------------------
---------------------------------
-------------------------
---------------------------------
#7
I drink your MILKSHAKE

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 15,061
Likes: 3
From: St. Petersburg, FL
Bikes: 2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
#10
Campy or bust :p
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,139
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey commuter build
I'm assuming the reasoning behind not using Revolution spokes is that the disc puts more stress on the spokes and 14/15ga spokes would be more likely to break over time from the extra torque? The wheels I've been eyeballing have 14/15ga spokes, but I only weigh 130 lbs so I would guess that I could probably get away with butted spokes and not really have as much trouble as a larger rider. It doesn't say whether it has aluminum or brass nipples. I never thought of the nipples as that big of a deal. Is this something I should even make an issue about when I order the wheels?
#11
Ride bike or bike ride?

Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 0
From: Adelaide, Australia
Bikes: MongoosePro DH, Dart custom road bike, .243 Racing FR street bike
I've also heard that you can get Al nipples to kind of fuse to the rim if it's Al also. I don't know if it's true but I heard it somewhere, probably on the internet therefore it must be true.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Malvern, PA
Bikes: Cannondale Scalpel 900 in SoBe Green
20 Spoked rims us a 2 cross?
https://www.cadencecycling.com/products/wheel.asp?id=15
I like Mavic Crossmax XL's
https://www.cadencecycling.com/products/wheel.asp?id=15
I like Mavic Crossmax XL's
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Malvern, PA
Bikes: Cannondale Scalpel 900 in SoBe Green
Yeah, i know... you should see the 2005 Mavic cosmic Carbone SL's ther like... 1200 or something like that... for 2 of them, its absolutley insane
here, check em out
https://www.cbike.com/mavic.htm
here, check em out
https://www.cbike.com/mavic.htm
#15
brass nipples~!! If somebody says they feel lighter or whatnot with al nipples its all in their head. You save a tiny bit of weight, you probably get 10x that resistance from brass nipples by riding through a puddle. plus AL nipples round out more easily.
#17
Zippy Engineer


Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 0
From: IN
Bikes: Bianchi 928, Bianchi Pista Concept 2004, Surly Steamroller, 1998 Schwinn Factory Team Homegrown, 1999 Schwinn Homegrown Factory, 2000 Schwinn Panther, Niner EMD9
Al nipples plus al eyelets are a no no but not exactly a common issue. Proper wheel building is key to having happy spokes and nips.
Why not use DT Super Comps?
Why not use DT Super Comps?
#18
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Originally Posted by cryogenic
I'm assuming the reasoning behind not using Revolution spokes is that the disc puts more stress on the spokes and 14/15ga spokes would be more likely to break over time from the extra torque? The wheels I've been eyeballing have 14/15ga spokes, but I only weigh 130 lbs so I would guess that I could probably get away with butted spokes and not really have as much trouble as a larger rider.
Dave
#19
Campy or bust :p
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,139
Likes: 0
From: Knoxville, TN
Bikes: Surly Karate Monkey commuter build
Since you have the LaserDisc hubs, how's the engagement on them? I have some cheapie Joytech hubs right now and can't stand the "slack" in the engagement. I understand that the LD's aren't going to be anywhere near the engagement of a Hadley or King, but is it noticeably better than your average shimano hub? Also, are they clicky when costing or not? Mine make noise, my friend's Shimanos don't.
#22
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Originally Posted by cryogenic
Since you have the LaserDisc hubs, how's the engagement on them? I have some cheapie Joytech hubs right now and can't stand the "slack" in the engagement. I understand that the LD's aren't going to be anywhere near the engagement of a Hadley or King, but is it noticeably better than your average shimano hub? Also, are they clicky when costing or not? Mine make noise, my friend's Shimanos don't.
Dave
#24
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
From: Poland
Thanks a lot for all of your help and advice.
I finally decided and ordered wheels - even better deal than for DTs, here is the spec:
2005 tune king (143gr) and kong (225gr), mavic x717 disc rims, DT Competition spokes, brass niples - should be strong reliable wheels (and light - you can call me whatever you like, but yes, I am a little bit of a weight weenie - trying to stay resonable).
I did also some extra research and here are the findings:
for light riders DT revos and alu niples should also hold, however when one niple dies, the wheel would never be as strong as it was, even after additional truing.
DT Aerolite are extremely good spokes, however 3 times as expensive as revos - for me it was too much
mavics 517 discs had a tendency to break due to vibrations coming from on-road riding and x717 corrected this issue
good tires - Tioga Red Phoenix kevlar (370 grams, 1,80) - I had enough of flats on my contis supersonics (every 50-80km I had a flat in the last two weeks)
Thanks again
I finally decided and ordered wheels - even better deal than for DTs, here is the spec:
2005 tune king (143gr) and kong (225gr), mavic x717 disc rims, DT Competition spokes, brass niples - should be strong reliable wheels (and light - you can call me whatever you like, but yes, I am a little bit of a weight weenie - trying to stay resonable).
I did also some extra research and here are the findings:
for light riders DT revos and alu niples should also hold, however when one niple dies, the wheel would never be as strong as it was, even after additional truing.
DT Aerolite are extremely good spokes, however 3 times as expensive as revos - for me it was too much
mavics 517 discs had a tendency to break due to vibrations coming from on-road riding and x717 corrected this issue
good tires - Tioga Red Phoenix kevlar (370 grams, 1,80) - I had enough of flats on my contis supersonics (every 50-80km I had a flat in the last two weeks)
Thanks again







