Hey, new to the MTab, spend most my time in C&V. My father in law just gave me this MB-2, and I am in the process of very slowly restoring it, and want a place I can document the progress. Some parts have been replaced on this so dating has been difficult, but from paint scheme and crank and such, my best guess is '92-'93. Not doing a period correct build, for one its in too rough of shape and needs paint and new parts, and two I like threadless stems and riser bars, and trigger shifters too much.

"Upgrade" ideas:
Riser bars
Threadless stem adapter with threadless stem
Rapid fire trigger shifter/brake lever combo
Building up a new wheelset as the old one is in poor condition from weathering
New seat/post
And lastly, new paint, going with all red, with a decal set.

So far, bike has been stripped, and given an oxalic avid bath for rust.

Next step, most likely a lot of prep and treatment, then paint.

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^^Why would he want to do that? Sounds like he wants to build it up into something that will be fun to ride in this century. Isn't 'period-correct' usually reserved for things that actually have collector value?

I have always been a fan of 90's Bridgestones. I think it will be fun watching what you do. Keep us posted with pictures and what is happening. Sounds like you know what you are wanting to accomplish.

Well, there are other reasons I am not going period correct, I am not a huge fan of straight bars, they are alright, and as I MTB more, who knows I may come to like them, but I have been wanting a trail bike with risers for a while now, I just love the look and feel. Also, I am sorry, but the stem original to the bike is just down right ugly haha. But in the end, I just think that it will be really cool looking with some upgrades, and a really comfy ride. It will be a mish mosh for sure lol, as something's will be from back then, and some new.

Bridgestone mountain bikes from the Peterson era have collector value, as do their road bikes. This is particularly true for the higher-end MIJ models, and the MB-2 qualifies in that regard.

https://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/...ne-1991-12.htm
https://sheldonbrown.com/bridgestone/...ne-1991-36.htm

From the looks of it - appears to be a 1991 model with several non-original specification parts. The '92 models switched to a metallic purple color scheme. The '93 models were red, with the biplanar fork. FYI.

This frame would look pretty nice in Tiger Drylac candy/metallic powdercoat red. Powder costs less and works better (especially in California), and the coater usually does the stripping for you.

I wouldn't worry about changing the bar setup that much. Bridgestones had stems that were a little too long, IMO - and unless yours are made by Nitto and are Ritchey branded, they won't be of much value to the average Bridgestone collector anyhow.

Nitto makes a threadless adapter and a riser bar that will work in this application. They may cost a little more, but Nitto's stuff has always been good.

The Specialized crank ought to clean up nicely. I'd hang onto it.

Since you still have the thumbies and (presumably) the original derailleurs, you have the option of keeping to the original 3x7 configuration. There's nothing wrong with thumbshifters - in fact, they seem to be making a comeback, thanks to the bar-con converters that Paul Components makes in your end of the Central Valley. Shimano hubbed mountain wheels are usually easy to come by on eBay. You're better off buying an already-made set, assuming you're trying to keep your costs down.

I definitely would swap out that headset. If you do some digging on eBay you should be able to locate a Shimano STX cartridge type (1" threaded) for replacement purposes, or a more Bridgestone-correct Italian Tange Falcon. Don't bother with Ritchey headsets, though - they're excrement.

Also, you might want to dump the resin-bodied pedals in favor of suitable MKS replacements. SR/Sakae stopped making Grant's favorite pedal (the Lowfat), and NOS is prohibitively expensive.

Lastly - keep it rigid. There are very few suspension forks out there in 1" threaded configuration, and they're mostly beat to hell.

Before you go threadless, is that a 1 inch head or 1 1/8? I thought Bridgestone held onto the 1" standard, but could be wrong. If it's a 1" head, going threadless is a hassle. It can be done, but unless you're totally bent on getting a sus fork, you might be better off with the stock fork and a threadless conversion. Of course if it is 1 1/8, you can find lots of forks, just be careful how much rise you buy. Those old bikes don't handle anything over 80 cm very well and do a lot better at 60mm.

More likely to ovalize the headtube. Bridgestones are best rigid ATMO.

AFAIK, they kept the 1" threaded standard right up to the end of their production runs for the Americas.

Sorry I haven't posted in here in a while, production on this project hast kind of come to a halt for now unfortunately : /

I greatly appreciate all the feedback and ideas guys! So I have decided to powder coat this one, as mentioned above. I tried stripping the paint, and idk if Bridgestone just used really good paint, or the weathering effected it, but that paint is on there good! So eventually, will have it blasted and coated all read, and buying a decal set for it as well.

As for the fork, and steerer tube, I am simply doing one of those 1" threaded - 1 1/8" conversion stem adapters, not doing anything crazy there, the adapter is only like $20, so I'm gonna try it. And I will be sure not to get too much rise in my bars, thank you!

The Specialized crank did clean up nice, and I'm for sure keeping this, it's seems like a nice crank, and I like it, also has a specialized BB, but appears to have some generic headset.

And it is staying Rigid absolutely! Thanks again for all the input guys, like I said, it's on halt for now, had to buy a car, so after recovery from that I will resume this project and update accordingly