Hey guys, long-time roadie here, newbie MTBer.

I just got a DiamondBack Overdrive Comp 29er this past weekend. I've been eyeballing mountainbikes for a long time after spending an average of 10 hours a week on the road for years. I gotta say, it's SO MUCH FUN! My new MTB is great for a beginner like me. It comes stock X-5 shifters and an XC30 fork. The choice was between this and the bit more expensive GT Zaskar 9r with a SoloAir XC32 and Deore shifters. The air fork was, yea, more plush, but considering how new I am to the sport I opted to save $150 and go with the DiamondBack. I didn't notice a difference in shifting, but I wasn't on a trail either. I'm still happy with my decision.

The only thing I'm noticing on the trail is the shifting, at times. Occasionally I'll shift into a higher gear and the chain will drop 2, then come back one. I adjust the barrel adjuster to limit this, but now it's a little sluggish dropping down, but will sometimes jump 2 into the low gears, then come back 1. Again, this isn't all the time, but it seems like there's not really a perfect setting, so I'm okay with it being sluggish going into the high gears, since what I really need on the trail is fast shifts into the low gears.

ANYWAY, I'm aware that I purchased an entry level bike and I'm still having lots of fun. HOWEVER, If I should one day want to upgrade shifters, is this something that is eliminated in more expensive shifters, or derailleur, or going down to a 9-speed?

The issue you are experiencing is due to poorly adjusted derailleurs. SRAM X5 is a solid group -- right in line with the Deore level on the other bike.

If you want to adjust the rear derailleur yourself, check out the repair section at www.parktool.com.

Also worth noting, the derailleur hanger may need to be adjusted for optimal shifting. This is something that requires a specialty tool. Derailleur hanger alignment should be checked on a new bike build, but that may have not been addressed.

Yup.

^^ But that's SAE. Fortunately, for those over in the UK, there's a Bristol version:

Both of those are right handed. What if the original poster is a lefty?

Yeah...well, when someone is paying you to dial in a drivetrain, it helps to be more accurate. See, you missed the key word -- optimal. Just because a hanger looks straight, does not mean it is perfectly aligned with the rear cogs. If you want to be accurate, you use a derailleur hanger alignment gauge.

In 30+ years of riding and tweaking derailleur hangers a simple crescent wrench has worked every time. I've gotten accurate results with the derailleur being properly aligned with the cogs and the bikes have shifted perfectly.

I didn't miss anything but I understand that these kind of facts can be potentially upsetting to shop rats who believe that the only way to accomplish many mundane bike maintenance tasks is to use "specialty" tools.

I do hate to poke the fire but isn't it easier to accurately adjust something with a tool designed for the job?

I find that a nice pipe wrench will eventually get any job done. It even doubles as a hammer.

AND YES, off course a tool specifically designed to give the proper feedback and get the job done is optimum.

Adjusting a hanger is not rocket science. There's a relatively wide range within which the derailleur will work properly.

Furthermore, most folks have a crescent wrench (or two) in their garage. Not many have a Park hanger adjuster sitting around.

I'll bite. Key operative word is "easier." Yes, it is; and that's especially why specialty Park shop tools exist - - when time is money in a bike shop setting. That doesn't mean the job would be performed less accurately with a good stock of less-specialized tools; it just means that it may certainly be faster and more convenient with the specialty tool.

There are quite a few Park tools that are obviously "designed for the job." And then there are quite a few others that are "sold for the job." As PS inferred, just because the tool says Park on it doesn't necessarily mean that it is the only tool suitable for a certain task.

Amen, D. There are times when I stick the short end of the 5mm into the derailleur bolt and reef on it because I have a pretty good idea of where I should be bending the hanger. There are other times it is faster, easier and better economics to unthread the derailleur, thread in the Park Tool and make sure it's pointing where it should be.

I have nothing against kludges if it's the only option. If there ARE better options, a kludge is half-assing it.

Former shop rat...thank you very much.

I understand where you are coming from -- obviously the alignment gauge isn't a high priority for non "shop rats". But, when it comes down to it, a drivetrain that is more accurately set up will hold it's adjusment longer than one that is less than ideal.

Conceded. In my case, it's a matter of choosing my battles. For instance: the above-mentioned DAG-2 at $56-$75. I'll never own one I know for sure. If I can't straighten it enough to satisfy my pickiness, I'll drop the $15-20 for the new hanger. I'd have to replace at least 3 tweaked-beyond-my-kludge ones (severely disfigured should be replaced anyway) to just break even on the tool. I replaced one on my old Blindside four years ago (and Kevin at Transition spotted me that one to boot).

Or a CRS-1 (crown race setter) at $70-$85: there hasn't been a crown race yet that my 1¼" brass tailpiece (basin drain) or chunk of 1½" ABS hasn't smacked into place just fine, thank you. I'd gladly forego either of those to save for something REALLY important, like an HHR-2 headset press at $140-$170. My ghetto presses get me by *much* of the time but sometimes there is just no substitute for the real thing.


You don't qualify as a true shop rat if you're a 'former,' do you?

I totally understand. The 1.5" crown race installer at my shop is ABS tubing I bought at Home Depot for >$10. I just wanted to make a distinction between "good enough most of the time" and "100% correct". There is, of course, a cost-benefit question that will skew things sometimes.

Blah blah blah...!

Hey OP- I have an overdrive too. It shifts well, but I did have to do some minor adjustments when I got it used. Check things over and make sure the cables are good and even lubed. Eventually you will get it to shift well.

-SP