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Planning a Montana trip

Old 05-22-17, 05:04 PM
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Planning a Montana trip

Greetings, all. I'm hoping I might get some suggestions or direction for a bicycling tour of Montana for this summer. I was thinking about doing a couple of ACA tours, but I wasn't crazy about the camping piece in their Missoula trip, cuz I do have a bit of arthritis in my neck that would make extended tenting difficult; also interested in their Glacier/Waterton tours but they are a little salty for no sag support.

I have done tours like this before. I'm quite comfortable going solo too. I did a tour in 2015 of the San Juan Islands, going over to Vancouver (Sydney to Victoria, along the coast -- beautiful) and out to Sooke Potholes, then ferrying to the Olympic Peninsula (Hurricane Ridge was awesome), and back to Lynnwood (N of Seattle).

In 2014 I did the North Cascades highway and Whidbey Island, and went out to Leavenworth. Stunning, stunning, stunning.

Last year I did about 300 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Montana's on my list. DK much about biking in the area. I'd love any suggestions as to which are the most scenic areas and doable rides.

I am considering four possibilities:
  1. The ACA Missoula tour would be easily adaptable to a solo tour, with rides of 40-60 miles a day, following the same route, but different stops.
  2. Second option, something similar to their Glacier/Waterton tour would fit the bill.
  3. A variation on that theme is a rough route a buddy of mine suggested (used to live in Montana): he suggested starting in Bannf, going up to Lake Louise, then N on the Columbia Ice Fields, and optionally all the way to Jasper, then back down to Lake Louise, jutting down to Moraine Lake, then back and then down to Radius Hot Springs, down to Columbia Falls and up to Glacier Nat. Park (going to the Sun Rd) and wrapping it up there.
  4. He also suggested a series of loops in Yellowstone: roughly, something like starting in Chico Hot Springs > Gardner > Cook City > Top of the World Resort > Red Lodge > Cody, WY > Pateeka Teepee > Old Faithful Lodge >West Yellowstone > Gallatin and back to Billings.

He thought the last two options (his) would be much, much more scenic than their Missoula loop.

I'd really appreciate any thoughts. He felt the Missoula tour - especially the Bitterroot area -- was overrated cuz the rodes were not great and were littered pretty badly. He thought the other areas were more scenic.

I'd really value the input of someone with some experience with the area. So hard planning trips like this to an area you've never been to.


Thanks in advance,

Tesgin
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Old 05-23-17, 08:47 AM
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I have done a few unsupported loop tours out of Missoula since 2011, including some of the route used by ACA's Cycle Oregon, and will be doing this next month:


https://ridewithgps.com/routes/19192705


I also did the Glacier Waterton Loop unsupported in 2009.


The ACA route is nice and not overly taxing. The day in the Pioneer Mountains is pretty darn cool. Don't know what your friend means by littered. Didn't see any bad litter when I headed south from Missoula last year during this:


https://ridewithgps.com/routes/14890942


You could do most of it with the same stops. The lodge in Jackson closed due to the death of the owner, but there is a bunkhouse/hotel in town and a café that is open for lunch and dinner. Another alternative would be to stay in Wisdom, which has a motel. The one issue is the Ovando area. Not sure if there is any indoor lodging and have never been up that way myself. BTW...Other than possibly the Ovando area, everywhere the AC A tour stays there is indoor lodging (Darby, Jackson, Wise River, Fairmount Hot Springs and Phillipsburg), although you would have to pay for out of you own pocket.




No. 3 would be more scenic, but you would likely have some issues with finding lodging this late. IIRC, there is some big anniversary in Canada this year. Possibly for their "national park" service. Someone from out that way suggested that places are likely to be super crowded as more people hit the road. Securing lodging in Glacier and Yellowstone might also be tough. Yellowstone also has its traffic issues.


Another possibility is to do a modified version of the second map I link to.


The Glacier-Waterton loop is o.k. (but trafficy in places) and could be done on one's own assuming you could reserve lodging at this point. There are motesl in Eureka, MT, Sparwood B.C., Pincher Creek, AB, Waterton Village and around the St. Mary, MT area. I would definitely make reservations in some of those places, particularly Waterton Village and St. Mary areas. They are very touristy places that get very crowded during the summer.


Question: Do you have the ability to do gravel?
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Old 05-24-17, 11:46 PM
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indyfabz,

Thank you! This is great. Very, very helpful.

I really like what I'm reading about the Banff/Icefields/Jasper route. The whole area sounds beautiful. My impression is that Yellowstone is pretty rough traffic-wise and that it pales in comparison to Icefields.

Disappointed to hear about the traffic on the Waterton route.

I prefer not to do gravel. I'd like to do strictly paved roads. The two routes you posted: are they all paved roads?

And another question: I "hear stories" that discourage riding alone in the mountains, re: predators. It's the whole thing about bears, mountain lions, etc., preying on individuals that stray to far from the pack, type of thing. Yet I know it's done a LOT. Are there any safety issues in that regard? Again, I would not be camping, but lodging. Thoughts?

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Old 05-25-17, 11:22 AM
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The route I am doing next month is not all paved. There are some stretches on two unpaved rail-trails (Olympian and NorPac) and one 3 mile pass (with 3 mile descent) with steep sections (e.g., 9%) that is not paved. However, it could be done all paved with more riding on I-90. The unpaved pass could be eliminated by adding some miles. I am only planning to do that pass because I have been incorporating more gravel into my trips. Gravel often equals more undeveloped and isolated and often offers better wildlife viewing options.


The route I did last year also has two unpaved stretches of 23 and 30 miles, respectively. You could get around them, but it would require itinerary modification, adding miles and cutting out some really nice stretches. The section through Lolo National Forest along Rock Creek (a blue ribbon trout stream) is wonderful.


The chances of you falling prey to something while riding on crowded roads like Icefields Parkway and sleeping indoors are probably less than getting struck by lightning. Even if there are bears close to the road, they will rarely mess with you. Saw this fellow by the side of the road during a club ride in, of all places, New Jersey. When he saw us, he ran away. Had one cross my path about 50' ahead while riding in Glacier National Park back in '00. He didn't give me even a first look.
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Old 05-25-17, 06:59 PM
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The Icefields Parkway is absolutely spectacular. If you can figure out the lodging, choose that one. There are some hostels on the parkway.

Don't worry about the bears, they are out there, but not camping means it's a total non-issue. Even camping it's totally do-able, you just have to be smart about not eating in your tent.
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Old 05-27-17, 12:24 AM
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Perfect. Thank you!

I'm gonna do it.

Tesgin
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Old 06-01-17, 04:57 PM
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We rode the Icefields Parkway in 2016, all motels. It was expensive but worth it. Do your reservations first, some lodging goes fast. There were quite a few cyclists en route. You won't be alone. I would suggest staying in Canmore over Banff, less touristy and somewhat cheaper.

Park entry is free for 2017, but you have to request your free pass in advance, by mail.

You can fly in to Calgary and then take the bus to Banff, bicycles are accepted.

Our overnights in the area were:

Tete Juan Cache
Jasper
Sunwampta Falls Lodge
Saskatchewan Crossing
Lake Louise
Canmore

We did see bear almost daily, they didn't care about us at all. A non issue.
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Old 06-05-17, 01:18 PM
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Sweet. Thank you!

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Old 07-02-17, 11:28 PM
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So, I'm flying out to Calgary on Friday. Spending two weeks in Alberta. A night in Banff, then bicycling to Lake Louise, then back to Banff for several days. Will be taking in the icefields as well.

Question: bicycling from Banff to Lake Louise, should I take the Trans-Canadian Pkwy to Bow Valley Rd? Should I do the several miles on Vermilion Dr. before getting to Bow Valley? I will be riding alone: from what I hear Vermilion is beautiful, but it looks pretty secluded and narrow road in parts. Is this area safe on solo bicycle? Re: bears, etc.

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Old 07-08-17, 12:58 PM
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Yes, definitely take Bow Valley Parkway. Getting out of Banff to get there, there is a bike path that gets you all of the way to Bow Valley Parkway, you don't have to take the TransCan. I can't remember how to pick it up, but it was pretty obvious. It's south of the highway.
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Old 08-15-17, 08:46 PM
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@Tesgin, how was the ride/trip?

I'm new to the forum and came across your posting because I'm planning a work/leisure trip to MT. I'm looking ride the Going-to-the-Sun Road in late September/early October. Just wondering if locals or others who have ridden Glacier can advise if it's doable at that time of the year.

Thanks.
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Old 08-16-17, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by putmeincoach
I'm looking ride the Going-to-the-Sun Road in late September/early October. Just wondering if locals or others who have ridden Glacier can advise if it's doable at that time of the year.

Just did my 4th trip up the west side of GTS to Logan Pass back in June during a two-week tour in the state. You have to check the park's official web site. Typically there is a drop dead closure date for construction activity. This year the west side will be closed starting October 9th, assuming weather doesn't close it earlier:


https://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/gtsrinfo.htm


Some years, the closure date has been in September. If you go in late September/early October foul weather gear is essential. I have been up there in cold and wet conditions. It's something you want to be well prepared for, particularly at that time of year. This year I rode up the west side and back down on 6/28. Despite it being sunny at the pass, I needed to put my windbreaker and leg warmers on. Don't be surprised or disappointed if it snows.
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Old 08-25-17, 07:41 PM
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Thanks for the info! I've been winter riding in Toronto, Canada, so I'm kinda familiar to the foul weather. I'll look up the link closer to my travel dates to see if it's feasible.

Cheers!
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Old 08-29-17, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by putmeincoach
I'll look up the link closer to my travel dates to see if it's feasible.

Cheers!
The good thing is that the bike timing restrictions will not be in place. Between June 15th and Labor Day, portion of the west side of the road are off limits to bikes between 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. During that time, you have to reach Logan Pass by 11 a.m. or risk a fine unless the road is not open to motor vehicles all the way to the pass. That was the situation when I started out this past June, and I was assured by the campground host the road would not open to motor vehicles to the pass that day. I hit the road early hoping for the best wildlife viewing, but I was taking my dear sweet time since I didn't think I would have to summit before 11 a.m. Just before The Loop (the one switchback on the west side) I thought I heard engines in the valley below. I figured they were maintenance vehicles. A few minutes later a ranger in a truck pulled along side me and informed that the road was now fully open to vehicles and that I had to be at the pass by 11 a.m. Looked over my shoulder and saw a half dozen vehicles on their way up. traffic wasn't that bad on the climb because people got the word about the opening late and weren't really prepared to head up so quickly. I made it up around 10:30. Going down, traffic was bumper to bumper in places. The nice thing is that you can descend faster than cars, so you can take the whole lane if there is traffic in front of you. I don't descend particularly fast and even I had to brake due to slower motor vehicles ahead of me.
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Old 09-04-17, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by putmeincoach
Thanks for the info! I've been winter riding in Toronto, Canada, so I'm kinda familiar to the foul weather. I'll look up the link closer to my travel dates to see if it's feasible.

Cheers!
FYI...Keep an eye on the park. Most of the west side of GTS is closed due to fire, and that part of the park has been evacuated.
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Old 09-05-17, 11:10 AM
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We spent a couple of weeks in the Glacier and Yellowstone areas about two years ago...beautiful and worthwhile, even if we were in the car. I did purchase a can of Bear Spray from the local Walmart to carry when walking around (and it would fit a jersey pocket)...black bears are one thing, but seeing a grizzly with cub unfettered by zoo bars is real life. That said, the only animal I saw get even a little aggressive was a bull bison, and that was in response to humans invading his space. Should be a great trip...envious.
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Old 09-07-17, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Stormsedge
That said, the only animal I saw get even a little aggressive was a bull bison, and that was in response to humans invading his space.

Bison kill and injure far more visitors to Yellowstone than do bears. Bison incidents are usually caused by the very think you saw: getting too close on purpose. With that said, several years ago a couple of workers were walking home on a trail one evening from their shifts at a restaurant when they came around a corner and startled a bison. Both were seriously injured. One may have died.


Passed close to several of them while riding in Wind Cave N.P. and Custer S.P. in South Dakota. Made me a little nervous.
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Old 09-07-17, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Bison kill and injure far more visitors to Yellowstone than do bears. Bison incidents are usually caused by the very think you saw: getting too close on purpose. With that said, several years ago a couple of workers were walking home on a trail one evening from their shifts at a restaurant when they came around a corner and startled a bison. Both were seriously injured. One may have died.


Passed close to several of them while riding in Wind Cave N.P. and Custer S.P. in South Dakota. Made me a little nervous.
Custer S.P. is an interesting tour when doing the Black Hills, Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse, etc. Worth a trip!
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Old 09-07-17, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Stormsedge
Custer S.P. is an interesting tour when doing the Black Hills, Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse, etc. Worth a trip!


It was:


https://www.flickr.com/photos/105349...57655263744881


Started in Rapid City. Rode to Spearfish via Nemo and Deadwood the first day then rode Spearfish Canyon and over to the Mickelson Trail which I took to its southern terminus in Edgemont, with a night in Hill City along the way. I was going to head into Nebraska but skipped it due to flooding issues. Ended up looping to Hot Springs then through Wind Cave and Custer S.P. Spent three nights there and did some day rides, including Needles Highway. Then did a short day to a KOA, dropped my gear and did a loop to Keystone and back passed Mount Rushmore. Then headed back to Rapid City.
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Old 09-07-17, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
It was:


https://www.flickr.com/photos/105349...57655263744881


Started in Rapid City. Rode to Spearfish via Nemo and Deadwood the first day then rode Spearfish Canyon and over to the Mickelson Trail which I took to its southern terminus in Edgemont, with a night in Hill City along the way. I was going to head into Nebraska but skipped it due to flooding issues. Ended up looping to Hot Springs then through Wind Cave and Custer S.P. Spent three nights there and did some day rides, including Needles Highway. Then did a short day to a KOA, dropped my gear and did a loop to Keystone and back passed Mount Rushmore. Then headed back to Rapid City.
Beautiful Pictures. What a great trip you must have had. I enjoyed reading about yours & jppe cycling adventures. Thank you
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