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dukes.
the thing is i really like the guys who work the floor, there all really helpful, i only have issues with there tech abilities... I dunno im pretty anal when it comes to working on my bike (they look like ****, but the run smooooth), so i have really yet to find a store i am comfortable with letting them fix it... and the stripped bolts really doesnt help. yea i think i'll walk it in tomorrow |
wondering if u guys can help.....not going to post in main forum lol.
I recently crashed my bike and was forced to build a new one. On the crashed bike i rode 48/15 with no problems. the cranks sucked, but i had campy bb which was smooth. so, i build this new bike and basically move all the parts over from the crashed one to the new one. It's been a week and i can't handle the 48/15 gearing. Not only can i NOT move the bike, my knees are killing me, which has never happened to me b4 and I've been fixed year round for about 4 years now. The only difference between the drivetrain is that new ride has a 35$ shimano bb in it, not a campy one. I'm going to switch the chainring, but i'm pissed because I really liked the way my old bike felt. can a cheap bb make that much of a difference? i've also tried the seat height/position, cleat position solutions, to no avail. |
Couldn't the length of the chain-stays add to the gear-inches? As well, the frame geometry may be very different which can affect your positions. My Ciocc and Marinoni have the exact same size measurements but the angles were quite different and so was the ride.
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Originally Posted by jet sanchEz
(Post 7059958)
Couldn't the length of the chain-stays add to the gear-inches?
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Originally Posted by clowntown
(Post 7060041)
good point.
It's totally dependent on your chainring size and rear cog size. Crank length would have an effect on it. but I can't think of anything else. About the "slowness" of your new bike, you might want to check that your rear cones aren't too tight (cartridge or loose), and that your crank isn't bottoming out on the bottom bracket. You shouldn't also interchange Campy which is ISO and shimano bottom brackets which is JIS. ISO (Campy) cranks should be used with their proper ISO bb (e.g campy bb's). I wouldn't interchange the two unless you really didn't have a choice. This is an extra caveat anyways, I doubt this is making your bike feel slower than it was.' The final, completely obvious thing you need to check is that you haven't set your rear wheel back too far, binding the drivetrain. The chain should have some slack in all parts of it when you rotate the cranks. It shouldn't bind so much that it's causing major drag. You will see variation in chain tension, which is normal for most bikes as you rotate the cranks on the stand. Some bikes are better at this than others. This is the GI formula + vars. gi=dwd*fct/rct gi = Gear Inches dwd = Drive Wheel Diameter fct = Front Chainring Teeth rct = Rear Cog Teeth |
Originally Posted by operator
(Post 7060196)
Uh I don't see why chainstay length would affect gear inches at all. Otherwise you'd see a variable in the gear inch formula that says "chainstay length".
It's totally dependent on your chainring size and rear cog size. Crank length would have an effect on it. but I can't think of anything else. About the "slowness" of your new bike, you might want to check that your rear cones aren't too tight (cartridge or loose), and that your crank isn't bottoming out on the bottom bracket. You shouldn't also interchange Campy which is ISO and shimano bottom brackets which is JIS. ISO (Campy) cranks should be used with their proper ISO bb (e.g campy bb's). I wouldn't interchange the two unless you really didn't have a choice. This is an extra caveat anyways, I doubt this is making your bike feel slower than it was.' The final, completely obvious thing you need to check is that you haven't set your rear wheel back too far, binding the drivetrain. The chain should have some slack in all parts of it when you rotate the cranks. It shouldn't bind so much that it's causing major drag. You will see variation in chain tension, which is normal for most bikes as you rotate the cranks on the stand. Some bikes are better at this than others. |
the wheels are way IN on the dropouts. Chain tension seems ok, I'm not sure what you mean by the bb "bottoming out"
I have a sugino arm on the right side and a shimano on the left..... it's just that on my other departed ride, once i was going i was able to spin pretty easily. With this bike i'm just mashing, i can't get the rpm's high enough. |
+1 on all the above plus the obvious: with the NEW frame, how is the chain line?
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++1 on all of the above and the other obvious thing perhaps not mentioned: maybe you're hurting because you were in a crash? Just a a thought.
also keep in mind that any change in tire width will affect the ease of forward motion. is your new frame heavier maybe? |
Originally Posted by Herbie_Glick
(Post 7060329)
+1 on all the above plus the obvious: with the NEW frame, how is the chain line?
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Originally Posted by clowntown
(Post 7060452)
off by 2mm when first built. I added 1mm spacers to fix it. But the drivetrain is far from ideal in terms of chainline. The bb is 127mm......
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Originally Posted by cavernmech
(Post 7061851)
Q factor. The old Campy BB was prolly a 113 or thereabouts...the new one is 127....cranks are much further apart. Crank "stance' is often over-looked. You are pedalling outbounds now where you were pedalling straight down before. My bi-weekly post...out.
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Originally Posted by cavernmech
(Post 7061851)
Q factor. The old Campy BB was prolly a 113 or thereabouts...the new one is 127....cranks are much further apart. Crank "stance' is often over-looked. You are pedalling outbounds now where you were pedalling straight down before. My bi-weekly post...out.
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Stolen stuff alert...
My friend Lyndsey had her wheels ripped off the other night... Mavic laced for Formula Track Hubs 650 (6xp33) front 700 (DA22) back |
Originally Posted by MattRennick
(Post 7064407)
Stolen stuff alert...
My friend Lyndsey had her wheels ripped off the other night... Mavic laced for Formula Track Hubs 650 (6xp33) front 700 (DA22) back |
Originally Posted by 2wheelsgood
(Post 7064484)
crimewave wtf? i saw you leaving liberty village at approximately 8:51 this morning.
yeah dude, it's brutal! i pity the fool that i catch in the act, i'll tell you that much! |
See you later boys and girls. Off to the airport in a while. Woot!
Daughter has her laptop so maybe some europostages. |
Two locks isn't too much... Damn that sucks - I saw the post on CL earlier. :(
I fitted a chain around my Brooks on the weekend finally after all of the reports of those going missing. edit: yay Have a wicked trip, TJ :D |
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/bik/754577041.html
i've heard of this guy being kinda odd but this is disturbing news(if it's true). |
Originally Posted by 2wheelsgood
(Post 7064805)
http://toronto.en.craigslist.ca/tor/bik/754577041.html
i've heard of this guy being kinda odd but this is disturbing news(if it's true). It could happen of course but Jan is only like Igor in one way....his shop is cluttered. |
lyndsey like from adrift? that sucks!
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Originally Posted by canice
(Post 7065535)
lyndsey like from adrift? that sucks!
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Originally Posted by jet sanchEz
(Post 7065490)
Hrmmmmm, I would be very surprised if this isn't just more anonymous slander against Jan.
For any photographers out there: http://www.orionmagazine.org/index.php/mag/3134/ Have a good trip TJ. Keep your valuables and wallet tight on the metro and when assailled by groups of gypsy kids. |
Originally Posted by Flimflam
(Post 7064647)
Two locks isn't too much... Damn that sucks - I saw the post on CL earlier. :(
I fitted a chain around my Brooks on the weekend finally after all of the reports of those going missing. edit: yay Have a wicked trip, TJ :D |
I have been worried about my Brooks for awhile now. I have a chain on it but yeah, they want it, they will get it. Totally sucks, I've only had it for a short time and it was just starting to get comfy...
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