I was thinking of Jet Kote, but I hadn't realized they messed some frames up. Having painted frames myself, I can attest to how difficult it is to get even coating without runs or missing spots. Maybe I'll just pick up a litre of PPG Concept and have a go myself in the fall. I think I have primer up here still. As long as you're using a solid colour without metal flake, Concept can be colour sanded and buffed to get rid of mistakes.

That was a funny thread regarding brakes. I think that any extended brakeless riding in the city for me would end with my wife achieving a Zen state with my life insurance settlements.

hey i saw a dude around the core running a 3RENSHI frame which i thought was ultimate badass.

where do peeps find stuff like that in canada? i swear we are infested with.
1. ccm
2. miele
3. bauer

spray + dry + sand 800-1200 grit + clear + wetsand 1800-2200 grit + rubbing compound + polish = win?

If you're using a direct gloss urethane, like Concept, or Imron, the steps are:

-Clean bare metal with degreaser
-Chemically etch the metal with phosphoric acid. This leaves a phosphate coating that the primer loves, giving a chemical bond between metal, primer, and paint instead of relying on a weak mechanical bond that you get from roughing up with sandpaper before spraying.
-Prime with an epoxy primer. PPG's DP series are the best. If you're trying to cover metal imperfections (bad welds, etc.), then urethane sanding primer is used next, followed by more epoxy primer thinned as a sealer
-Spray with colour coat
-Wait a month if no oven available
-Wet sand with 600 or finer, depending on how bad the problem is.
-Wet sand finer and finer until you hit 2000 grit
-compound carefully
-use a polishing compound and then a swirl mark remover
-Wax

If you're a better painter than I and you have a proper booth to paint in, you can usually skip the colour sanding. Urethane sanding primer for filling imperfections, rather than lacquer types are best, as they don't shrink as they dry. Sanding regular high-build primer without letting it sit for several days will result in sanding scratches and surface imperfections that you thought were gone showing right through the colour coat later on as the primer shrinks.

Don't forget forced air breathing apparatus for this stuff, as the hardeners for all urethanes contain isocyanates.

okay i have a problem. dipping into savings to buy camping gear and lights, because i have a race and dont get paid till later... is a problem. im not even on the fast team.

but its like crack, i cant help myself! review of NiteHawk K2 Digital Emitter to come after dark.

(if i cant pay rent, the dude at MEC say its cool to return it if I cry hard enough, hoo-yeah!)

krusty, with that amount of effort, isnt it almost worth paying a pro shop to do it? DIY awesomeness aside.

and there was a sweet whip outside MEC today with speeding tickets as spock cards. who are you, are they real, and if they are, damn son you fast.

I've done 2 DIY bike paint jobs. It's a real PITA if you're not patient. I don't know if I didn't wait enough between coats or the BBQ paint I used was crappy but seriously the paint chipped or spread just by looking at it. I didn't mind since the bike was nothing special.

But for a bike you care more about Marinoni does a decent job for 150$. One week turn around. I can show pics if you want,

Cinelli Vigorelli? If so, that's Zhivago and I'm fairly certain that they are red light infractions which could be taken to mean 'not fast enough' if you catch my drift!

http://www.makergo.com/shutup/images...8/P1030866.jpg

Sweet spoke cards, none the less!

^^ yyep that was the one, its a nice build to boot. and regardless, they do look like speeding tickets, so the cool factor remains ;)

I rigged the NiteHawk to my Bern Baker with relative success, the light seems heavy tho, im not the biggest fan so far, the night test will determine for sure. It may be a buy/race/return deal. Im sketched at renting lights, who knows who used them last or how old they are. Just remind me not to bail into a tree with it on..

Absolutely. It's a horrendous amount of work. The only reason I even contemplate it is that I have the equipment and facilities to do it up north here if necessary, and have done cars, motorcycles, and bikes in the past. I don't have enough experience, however, to be any more than mediocre at it. I never get to skip the colour sanding and compounding.

Paint is also ludicrously expensive to buy. I remember I did my old Honda back before I moved out west in '95. I put over $1000 just in paint products onto it to do it properly. If I didn't already have some of the paints required currently, I wouldn't buy new stock just to do one bike frame.

Keith, the night lap monster, has assured me in the past the light rental is from the light manufacturer and they keep them topped nicely as to make you want to buy them afterwards.

I think a powder coat is the way to go on this frame I have - its an old Miele made out of Tange 900 that I got in rather rusty shape back in December 2007 for $50. I spent a good month getting all the rust off with a Dremel, striping the old paint and re-painting with Rustoleum (which flakes and is crap in general). The only reason I'm considering the powder coat is because the frame fits me and is really comfortable.

I saw this guy in Dukes and around QSW... yeah - not the fastest :P OTOH, no brakes means speed is more likely to kill, so its a toss up...

Naw man , speed thrills, though I do have FISTS FULL OF BRAKES as well. :lol:

They found more bikes?


I have had 4 of frames done at Jet-Kote and haven't had a problem.

Here is one in B.C., it might end low because Americans are afraid of getting tagged with import duties.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170250942767

the news described them as "the 2400 remaining bikes" so i wouldn't say it sounded like they found more. just another opportunity to reclaim bikes. or walk around for an hour and a half or so, hoping, and then feeling more and more frustrated as reality sets in that your bike(s) are still nowhere to be found. not that i've done that before. 3 times.

Will they strip it for you, or do you need to take them bare metal?

Does anyone have any experience with Helicoil inserts or know of any shops that will re-thread a crank arm using them? A friend of mine stripped one of her crank arms at the pedal and sent it back to the manu. but I doubt they'll do anything for her (it is IRO so you never know, he's pretty good about... well... just about everything) so if it comes back I wanted to try to have it fixed.

Frame and fork sand-blasted, given a chemical dip to clear out the tubes and then coated with a simple black or white is $75, other colours are $125.

Excellent. I'm there - right after my wife gets used to another new bike plus another planned build (maybe spring?).

Helicoil inserts aren't cheap if you do them yourself, but are really easy to do. I bought a kit to do the valve cover hold-down holes on my old Mercedes, which stripped with astounding ease, and it was over $100 for a package, including the necessary tap. If you just take them to a machine shop, they should be able to do it easily. However, it may prove cheaper to buy a new crank arm.

Hm... they didn't mention the $125 upcharge for the color I wanted. Oh well, I want it in that color anyways.

the color: ARANGE!!

Gah sucks about that frame... reminds me of my Centurion (same kinda stress bumps from a full frontal), but I'm riding her until she breaks (brakes? l0lz) - it feels like such a shed compared to my IRO.

Zhivago's a cool dude, and he's not all so slow when he wants to be ;) (I raced alongside him in the final legs of Springtastic... but I'm slow, he finished a spot in front of me :))

Also: http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/dri...cle4484188.ece Can we say... SCARY? ;)

Had to go up to Keele/Steeles again today, and a beautiful day for riding. I went to Whitby last time from there, today I just rode home - really enjoyable save for a few moments of "where's the pavement surface gone?". Glad to have seen a bit more sun on my pasty whites anyway.

PS, sorry and thanks to Urbane for the use of the floor space and pump yesterday... was a last minute flat change and flee as I was trying to make my train. That'll teach me to forget my pump. Poop.

Well, I have only inquired about black or white in the past but orange might also be cheap since it is an industrial powder-coater. In fact, the last time I was there, they were powder-coating a crane a nice dark orange colour. A crane.

Krusty-----I just read your post again and the IRO is already covered in a powder-coat? If that is the case, you may want to take it off yourself because I think that Jet-Kote will not be able to remove it and instead, put the new powder-coat on top of the orange. That isn't a big deal, it just means that finer details such as embossings will not show up. I don't think IRO has anything like that , but just so you know....

I am getting my Ciocc re-done in the next couple of months and I will remove it's current coating myself so that when I give it to Jet-Kote, it will go on nice and thin, showing off the lubs/embossings well.