So nice riding in just a base layer and sweatshirt. You forget how fun cycling can be in decent weather.

And +7 tomorrow!

Welcome to the club. A few guys are doing sunday rides, not necessarily fixed gear. There's also a bunch of guys doing weekly rides on Wednesdays during the summer months (and maybe winter?). Things'll likely pick up alot in the summer

thank you for the warm welcome. today was a nice ride except the humber trail is full of large chunks of salt. tomorrow should be amazing and hopefully im not sore

Holy crap Mike, that sucks hard. Hopefully that warranty claim comes through.

Jeesh man, that's what I wore yesterday into the -11C + wind (Well, with a scarf and balaclava but I'm a massive inferno of heat anyway)

I don't have a long sleeved jersey yet, so I put my base layer on with a jersey over the top just for some arm warmth - beautiful though. First time in a while since I hadn't had to wear my thermals, and my feet were cooking in two pairs of socks Yay, it might finally be changing up!

I'll be with my daughter this weekend, so no morning rides for me (though I've got a couple hours break to go to Toby and Maijas thing on Saturday).

I felt an idiot/noob yet again for my lack of good/proper maintenance. I can't remove my brake canti-levers from the fork. They're on there, and they seem to want to stay on (I gave it more than enough encouragement with a hammer, no less). I've learned a lot through this kind of thing; getting a cog stuck on the hub, a pedal stuck in cranks and now the brake arms stuck on the fork posts. Grease + regular maintenance/cleaning needs to happen more than not, especially when I ride in the winter gak. Damnit.

Kergin, could you do me a favour and measure the bottom bracket drop on your Major Jake? I think it will be somewhere around 55mm but I'd like to know for sure. Thanks.

Hehe same thing happened to me, although it wasn't so hard to take them off. It was the only thing I had to do on my bike over all winter, except putting oil on the chain. I love a fixed gear for that.

Talking of winter bikes. I found the 40x17 gear too hard on windy or snowy or tired days. I know... So I put a 2:1 gear on the fixed. It's slow but fun!

Pure eyeballing, I say 3". Kona only lists the BBH, not BBD.

wait... what are you planning!

I officially request the use of a tape measure, possibly even a level and/or plumb bob.

BBH is listed on the Kona site but that figure doesn't help me out too much. Hey Kona, what size tire are you using when taking that measurement? BBD is a lot more useful because then I can figure out saddle height to handlebar drop and get a bit of an idea about the bike's center of gravity.

I'm tossing around the idea of a Kona Major Jake instead of a Cannondale. I'm going to be riding with the Cycle Solutions guys this season and if possible I'd like ride one of the shop's brands.

I also thought about going for a Cannondale cross bike, but the MJ was more versatile / better deal. The only place in town that had *just* a frameset available was Duke's. They wanted $900 for that set... uh yeah...

FWIW, you are welcome to take my MJ out for a spin to see how it handles.

Your's is a 54, yes? I may take you up on that.

i know none of us exist in north york, but is anyone riding today after 6pm?

i plan to be doing laps around mt pleasant cemetery. or that cemetery around senlac..

sorry there is nothing else scenic where i live.................... at... the.. cemetery..

I have a quick question for the mechanics--------how precise does the threading on a fork have to be?

I ask because the threads on my new-to-me Ciocc fork are not far enough down the steer tube for my old frame and I need to extend them by about another inch or so. Can I take the fork in to a shop and have them do it or should I bring the fork and frame?

I'm going to be running errands and riding around the core after work. First time on my fixed gear since November and it feels fantastic being on 23s after getting used to 38mm Studded Knobbies

an inch sounded like the range that most shops would be comfortable chasing the threads on ur fork. show off that beauty. they can overthread it down, say if ur headset stack is taller than the threads, but as long as its not like over 2 cm overthreaded, you should be fine. its been proven that an entirely threaded steerer significantly weakens it.

if you have the old original fork, take that to the shop and have them match it on your replacement.

btw, if they have cut down the steerer, make sure you can install your stem as far in as you need.. cuz sometimes the butting wasn't designed for the shorter steerer and the butting will butt into your stem.. preventing it from being installed at the correct length.

Great, thanks for the input. I was worried that I would need to not only get the fork thread extended but also get the steerer cut, adding to the cost. But it sounds like I will just have to add some spacers, sweet.

I was wondering why forks are not fully threaded, making them easier to switch around and I never considered that it would weaken the steerer but that makes a lot of sense.

I would get it cut too. You should be able to get them to cut it to length without bringing the frame in if you provide them with the stack height of the headset and the height of the headtube.

So it's just the top cap, washer and nut ... I had mine setup initially with a spacer between the top cap and the nut and I found that it got loose over time.

It also looks a lot better.

Oh my crash wasnt anything too crazy... I dodged a pot hole (big mofo) and hit the ground before i knew what happened. Got one foot out, but it kinda just bounced off the ground.

I looked at the scene of the bail and there was black ice everywhere.


Kinda cool hitting the ground harder then ever before (this includes bailing at ~60km/h on a longboard) and getting up with only a few minor injuries.



I still like saying I body slammed the road because it was rude to me... confuses people to no end.

2009 54cm Major Jake BB drop is 59 mm. They take all the measurements with the stock tires installed...in this case 35mm Conti Speed King Kevlar.

I believe the phrase is, "fountain of knowledge."

Any thing I should know/do switching from a mtb casette to a road casette? Both are 8 speed and shimano compatable.

assuming the teeth are significantly different, you may need to change the length of the chain

and your biggest cog is likely going down so i imagine derailleur capacity isn't an issue

If you adjusted your B tension screw to adjust for the mtn cassette you may want to back it out a bit to get the top pulley closer to the cog.

Just be careful you don't activate the flux capacitor and time travel.

Well to be fair I did have a 54 at the store and it was kinda slow today.

</Roads? Where we're going we don't need roads.>