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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Bike Weight Reduction and Getting Faster

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Old 06-17-15, 02:59 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
equals about 3%. Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be - the simple ratio of the difference over total weight.

Same speed, about 3% less power. Same power, about 3% more speed. At 8-10 mph the aero drag doesn't count for much.
I think that oversimplifies it, because you do have the aero component that doesn't change. Thus the difference is less on shallower climbs, its also less with higher watts.

For example at 3% grade with a rider putting out 350 watts, 6 pounds is going to make a smaller percentage difference, than it will with a 10% grade, with 175 watts.

Example 1 its 2 seconds per mile; Example 2 it's 32 seconds per mile.

So rider strength, and steepness of the terrain definitely affects the answer.
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Old 06-17-15, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Csdhlhcky
Just as the title states. I am currently riding a ~21lbs pound Specialized Allez Double, and am considering upgrading to a used Cannondale Supersix Evo Ultegra Di2 which supposedly comes in around 15.5lbs. Would this weight reduction help significantly on climbs?
As a 150 pound rider that will make you about 3% faster up the steepest hills (165.5/171 pounds) which is two minutes off a one-hour hill climb.
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Old 06-17-15, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
I think that oversimplifies it, because you do have the aero component that doesn't change. Thus the difference is less on shallower climbs, its also less with higher watts.

For example at 3% grade with a rider putting out 350 watts, 6 pounds is going to make a smaller percentage difference, than it will with a 10% grade, with 175 watts.
Just specify going up a hill that's too steep to climb fast. That might be 5% for the 175 watt guy, 10% for the 350 watt guy, but both of them are getting the same percentage gain.

Both guys are also getting the same gain in power saved when they go up at the same speed. Regardless of how powerful they are. It's not oversimplifying it so much as clarifying the situation.
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Old 06-17-15, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Csdhlhcky
Hmmm, so if a full 6lbs reduction isnt super significant, why do people on this forum fuss about shaving off a few grams by switching out bottle cages/handlebars/etc.?
Some on this forum are simply obsessed with making their bike as light as possible, with little focus on their power and performance. Seems odd to me, but I guess it makes them happy. Different strokes.
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Old 06-17-15, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
I think that's a little high. I ran it on Kruezooter, assuming 8% grade (which would increase the difference, and assumed 300 watts. The results with those assumptions are 8 seconds a mile.

Meaningful difference in a race. On a 5 mile climb it might be the difference with staying in contact with the pack and not, but riding recreationally, hardly noticeable.


Also OP, are you sure about that 15.5lb weight. With pedals, it may not be quite as big of difference as you're thinking. Real world bike weights tend to be higher than advertised.
Have you tried doing the calculations with pen and paper? I tried to do them with only google's calculator so there might be one error throwing it all off. But the results I got still made logical sense, so I would believe they are accurate.
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Old 06-17-15, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
equals about 3%. Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be - the simple ratio of the difference over total weight.

Same speed, about 3% less power. Same power, about 3% more speed. At 8-10 mph the aero drag doesn't count for much.

If it's strictly about weight, that makes it pretty clear cut. If the cost of shedding 5.5 pounds is worth it for 3% extra power on the hill, then go for it.
I think that it is a coincidence that the calculations and weight drop both came out to be a 3% difference. If I have more energy later, or if others care I can try and calculate the time differences on different grades.
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Old 06-17-15, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bunyanderman
I think that it is a coincidence that the calculations and weight drop both came out to be a 3% difference. If I have more energy later, or if others care I can try and calculate the time differences on different grades.
No coincidence. power is mgh/t, ie, proportional to mass.

* ignoring aerodynamic drag as merlinextralight pointed out, and a tiny impact on rolling resistance

Last edited by wphamilton; 06-17-15 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 06-17-15, 04:03 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
Just specify going up a hill that's too steep to climb fast. That might be 5% for the 175 watt guy, 10% for the 350 watt guy, but both of them are getting the same percentage gain.

Both guys are also getting the same gain in power saved when they go up at the same speed. Regardless of how powerful they are. It's not oversimplifying it so much as clarifying the situation.
you're taking aerodynamics out of the equation. Depending on grade and power, it makes a difference as shown in the illustrations I gave.
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Old 06-17-15, 04:16 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Csdhlhcky
Haha I'll save that for next year, the weather is far too nice here in Houston to leave...

In all seriousness, I have been cycling daily for a little over a year now and one thing that has really bothered me about my current bike is how difficult it feels to shift when really attacking a hill, in addition my current Sora groupset shifts fairly clunky even on flat terrain. I have heard electronic shifting solves that problem, and with the 6lbs weight reduction, I would assume for there to be some noticeable difference in performance. Am I correct?
Why not just upgrade to 105's? They're a lot less expensive than a Di2 set. And they'll be a lot better at shifting than the Sora's.

By the way, when you start the climb, I guess you're already shifting into the small ring on the FD. No bike shifts well from the big ring to the small ring when under climbing load.

And on the Sora's, when was the last time that you had the RD adjusted? It could be that adjusting the RD will do wonders for you.

GH
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Old 06-17-15, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wphamilton
No coincidence. power is mgh/t, ie, proportional to mass.

* ignoring aerodynamic drag as merlinextralight pointed out, and a tiny impact on rolling resistance
True, but Sin theta is not a linear function.
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Old 06-17-15, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cthenn
If that math is correct, that's actually fairly significant. "Significant" is a subjective term, but if you aren't just buying a new bike to commute to school or work, or tool around the neighborhood, then that actually is a lot. Also, you can't really take into account the performance of the bike, which certainly will have some additional effect.
Technically speaking, a figure is significant if it's within the range of what you can measure precisely.
Which brings me to this whole thing about whether one will notice the difference. I'm convinced that our bodies are capable of noticing very fine differences in anything that matters to us, and if it matters enough, the degree of difference we notice will exceed that suggested by instrumental measurement, e.g., a five second improvement over the course of two miles may not seem like much, but to someone attuned to the effects of weight, every bit of that may be felt, noticed and greatly appreciated at the time.

Originally Posted by kc0bbq
Tiny people just had to have some place to lord it over the normal-sized folks. When two people have essentially the same average power over a 1 mile, 7% climb and for one that means they're 15/240 and for the other 104/240 on the Strava segment that's oppression and should be illegal! hehe
3/1081 on a little local hill by this old beanpole earlier today. In your face, normal-sized folks!

Last edited by kbarch; 06-17-15 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 06-17-15, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
you're taking aerodynamics out of the equation. Depending on grade and power, it makes a difference as shown in the illustrations I gave.
I thought it was understood, it's the maximum amount of gain, with respect to power. There are situations where it's zero, or when it's negative.

Overcoming gravity, aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance. Decreased weight affects the first in linear proportion. It doesn't affect the other two in any meaningful fashion. plug in any parameters to get the total - you'll get different total power or speed, and different ratios, but that's not really helpful for someone trying to understand the impact of +/- 6 pounds.

The first term is proportional to weight, simple, easily understood. In situations where it predominates and the other two terms are not important, such as climbing a steep hill*, it is a very simple situation that mainly depends on weight, and it's the simple ratio. It just needs to be understood that there are other factors involved in other situations.

*actually if you want to be precise about it, and I have a feeling that someone will, rolling resistance is not completely negligible for the weaker rider, going uphill or otherwise.

Originally Posted by Bunyanderman
True, but Sin theta is not a linear function.
It's a ratio, it cancels out. Why does everyone want to complicate the simple concept (and correct physics)?

Last edited by wphamilton; 06-17-15 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 06-17-15, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
If you do climbs on Strava, I suspect you'll hit some new PR's after dropping 6 lbs worth of bike. I know I did. Your average mph overall might go up a fuzz too.
Of course this won't mean you're any better of a cyclist, just that your lighter weight bicycle makes you think you are.
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Old 06-17-15, 09:12 PM
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Robert Kahler, who runs the torture clinic, told me not to concern myself with a bike's weight until I had stripped all of the unnecessary fat from my body. So far I haven't lost all of my body fat so I haven't upgraded my bike.

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Old 06-17-15, 09:55 PM
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Just let the bloke buy a new rig!!!

I reckon it is a good buy and it WILL provide benefit to him, even if it is all psychological.

Although, in saying that, it will be a more dynamic handling bike and the pleasure of riding it will encourage more riding, which, in turn, will manifest into higher cyclist performance...

cheers
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Old 06-18-15, 03:04 AM
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Old 06-18-15, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Csdhlhcky
Hmmm, so if a full 6lbs reduction isnt super significant, why do people on this forum fuss about shaving off a few grams by switching out bottle cages/handlebars/etc.? Seems a little overkill unless you're Sir Wiggins going for an hour record. I am obviously new here, so I may be off base with my assessment...
because Houston
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Old 06-18-15, 08:22 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Csdhlhcky
Just as the title states. I am currently riding a ~21lbs pound Specialized Allez Double, and am considering upgrading to a used Cannondale Supersix Evo Ultegra Di2 which supposedly comes in around 15.5lbs. Would this weight reduction help significantly on climbs?

Also, as a side note does anyone have any positive/negative experiences with this Supersix?

I have both of those bikes. Started with an Allez triple with Sora, then upgraded to Ultegra 6600 road double ($200), which helped shifting noticeably. Also upgraded wheels to Easton 90 SLX ($500), which made the bike feel like a totally different bike, since the original Alex wheels weighed over 2100 grams. Was doing 150 to 200 miles/week on this bike.

Then I bought the SuperSix Evo with Ultegra Di2 last year, and it's about 4 lb lighter than the upgraded Allez with the pedals and such attached. I enjoy it even more than the Allez and still ride similar mileage, but the difference in speed is not noticeable. The shifting is beautiful, especially on the chainring going uphill. I can hang with the same fast groups on either bike and have beat some PRs / KOMs on the newer bike while there are others that I set on the Allez and haven't beaten.

For reference, 320 watt FTP 185lb.

If I were 21, I'd spend a few hundred upgrading the Allez, race it, and put the extra in savings for when it's crashed.
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Old 06-18-15, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
Of course this won't mean you're any better of a cyclist, just that your lighter weight bicycle makes you think you are.
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