I broke a Vector 2 pod while riding.
08-12-15, 02:50 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
I broke a Vector 2 pod while riding.
This is on a Cervelo R3 with Ultegra 6700.
I didn't feel or hear it when it happened, I noticed that the power field went blank. Looks like the chain tore through the connector thing, the flat "wire" that connects the part that snaps in to the rest of the pod:
I have about 5.5 to 6 mm clearance between the chain (in 53x11) and crank arm, supposed to need 5 mm. I looked through the file, and the last data point before power cuts out shows 194w, 101 rpm, and 30.3 mph; I was coming down a hill, would have been in 53x11, and I'm guessing I must have flexed the frame just enough for things to hit.
The question is what do I do about it?
Can I get narrower crank arms to give me more clearance? If so, any suggestions? Other options I should consider?
I didn't feel or hear it when it happened, I noticed that the power field went blank. Looks like the chain tore through the connector thing, the flat "wire" that connects the part that snaps in to the rest of the pod:
I have about 5.5 to 6 mm clearance between the chain (in 53x11) and crank arm, supposed to need 5 mm. I looked through the file, and the last data point before power cuts out shows 194w, 101 rpm, and 30.3 mph; I was coming down a hill, would have been in 53x11, and I'm guessing I must have flexed the frame just enough for things to hit.
The question is what do I do about it?
Can I get narrower crank arms to give me more clearance? If so, any suggestions? Other options I should consider?
08-12-15, 04:26 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Pinehurst, NC, US
Posts: 1,716
Bikes: 2020 Trek Emonda SL6, 90's Vintage EL-OS Steel Bianchi with 2014 Campy Chorus Upgrade
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 452 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
110 Posts
I believe that the pods are replaceable parts. Vector 2 replacement pods are $80 from Garmin, although if this is to be an ongoing problem that is hardly a solution.
BTW, that looks like a 'original Vector pod' in the picture from what I can tell. If that is the case you might consider the upgrade to Vector 2 which is basically just new pods anyway. But I'm guessing that you already have Vector 2 hardware (just not a Vector 2 picture).
I've been running for a while (old Vector) with 4 mm clearance and no problems. But I am not a high power guy and my older Bianchi (steel) bike might be a bunch stiffer than your Cervelo.
dave
BTW, that looks like a 'original Vector pod' in the picture from what I can tell. If that is the case you might consider the upgrade to Vector 2 which is basically just new pods anyway. But I'm guessing that you already have Vector 2 hardware (just not a Vector 2 picture).
I've been running for a while (old Vector) with 4 mm clearance and no problems. But I am not a high power guy and my older Bianchi (steel) bike might be a bunch stiffer than your Cervelo.
dave
08-12-15, 05:53 PM
#4
Stand and Deliver
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tampa Bay
Posts: 3,340
Bikes: Cannondale R1000, Giant TCR Advanced, Giant TCR Advanced SL
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Did you buy them directly through Garmin or go through a dealer? If within the warranty period, I'd be looking for a replacement. Discuss with them how to remedy your problem. Any luck in doing a search to see if others are having the same problem?
08-13-15, 08:46 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
I've got a Vector 2, but not a picture, so I grabbed one that showed the part I killed.
It doesn't look like other people are having this problem. The DCRainmaker review says it's ok to run with less clearance than Garmin recommend. I've got just slightly more. And I can't be sure what happened but it looks like the chain must have hit it, so I'm worried about spending the $80 and having it happen again and again. I got these at REI (they do a 20 % off one item coupon occasionally) and they offered to help. I'm thinking long term to decide what to do.
Can I get different crank arms to space the pedal out a bit?
It doesn't look like other people are having this problem. The DCRainmaker review says it's ok to run with less clearance than Garmin recommend. I've got just slightly more. And I can't be sure what happened but it looks like the chain must have hit it, so I'm worried about spending the $80 and having it happen again and again. I got these at REI (they do a 20 % off one item coupon occasionally) and they offered to help. I'm thinking long term to decide what to do.
Can I get different crank arms to space the pedal out a bit?
08-13-15, 09:43 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
OP, that doesn't compute. The speed at 101 cadence in the 53/11 is over 38 mph with 700c wheels. I'm not saying it is a solution, but if you only wanted to go about 30 mph, you didn't need to be on the 11-tooth cog. Jus' sayin' that the less time you spend in 53/11 when you don't have to, the less chance of a repeat of the problem. On the other hand you can investigate Q-factor for a number of cranks to see which one would put the arms further away from the center of the bike. I think you have to assume that the big ring will stay in the same place no matter the Q-factor in order to keep the chain line proper.
08-13-15, 09:59 AM
#7
I'm doing it wrong.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,875
Bikes: Rivendell Appaloosa, Rivendell Frank Jones Sr., Trek Fuel EX9, Kona Jake the Snake CR, Niner Sir9
Mentioned: 85 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9742 Post(s)
Liked 2,812 Times
in
1,664 Posts
I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how the chain contacted that part. If you flexed the frame...wouldn't the entire crank with chain flex with the frame? Maybe it happened another way, like a stick jammed into it while you were descending.
Either way...contact Garmin about it. You never know...maybe they will warranty it.
Either way...contact Garmin about it. You never know...maybe they will warranty it.
08-13-15, 10:15 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18883 Post(s)
Liked 10,646 Times
in
6,054 Posts
Might have been a stick or a pedal. I didn't notice when it happened so really it could be anything. I'd prefer it to be something random like that, not likely to happen again.
I called Garmin, they said they don't have any replacement pods in 12-15 mm size right now, which is really weird. I've been having a hard time finding a replacement but I just got that taken care of.
Yeah I thought I'd have to be going faster to spin out. I agree about not needing the 11T much, honestly if that's what killed the pod, it must have been weeks before I shifted into that cog. The part that worries me is that I'll shift back into 11T going down a hill one of these days without thinking about it, and be out another $80 and without a power meter until the replacement arrives. (None of the local bike shops stock those things.)
I called Garmin, they said they don't have any replacement pods in 12-15 mm size right now, which is really weird. I've been having a hard time finding a replacement but I just got that taken care of.
OP, that doesn't compute. The speed at 101 cadence in the 53/11 is over 38 mph with 700c wheels. I'm not saying it is a solution, but if you only wanted to go about 30 mph, you didn't need to be on the 11-tooth cog. Jus' sayin' that the less time you spend in 53/11 when you don't have to, the less chance of a repeat of the problem.
