Alloy wheels on a Carbon frame?
08-25-15 | 10:05 AM
#7
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For commuting to work, I run a alu tubular wheel on the front and carbon tubular on the rear. With the appropriate brake pads of course. The alu on the front gives a bit more bite for braking, especially in the rain. Overall this setup is lighter than any clincher wheelset, full carbon or otherwise, regardless of cost.
08-25-15 | 10:57 AM
#8
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
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Or winter in the southern hemisphere. Are there BF members at the poles ?
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08-25-15 | 11:28 AM
#9
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
08-25-15 | 11:32 AM
#10
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
For commuting to work, I run a alu tubular wheel on the front and carbon tubular on the rear. With the appropriate brake pads of course. The alu on the front gives a bit more bite for braking, especially in the rain. Overall this setup is lighter than any clincher wheelset, full carbon or otherwise, regardless of cost.
08-25-15 | 11:36 AM
#11
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Sure. Having carbon bicycle parts is not an accomplishment or a fashion statement. It is a response to a need for certain performance attributes. You use carbon where it will provide you the attributes you want, not to coordinate a look. If aluminum wheels are the right answer for the type of riding you do, they go on any bike you wish to ride.
08-25-15 | 11:44 AM
#12
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I should have provided the reason in the OP. The kind of riding I do are rides with my cycling team. Usually 50-70 miles, speeds anywhere from 20-30 mph (I know, it's a big range). I am also a Cat 4 who does crits, so it's not like carbon is going to give me too much of an edge at that level. I also can't afford to have dedicated racing wheels, as many of my teammates do, so cost is another criterion to a preference for alloy wheels.
08-25-15 | 11:55 AM
#15
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
I should have provided the reason in the OP. The kind of riding I do are rides with my cycling team. Usually 50-70 miles, speeds anywhere from 20-30 mph (I know, it's a big range). I am also a Cat 4 who does crits, so it's not like carbon is going to give me too much of an edge at that level. I also can't afford to have dedicated racing wheels, as many of my teammates do, so cost is another criterion to a preference for alloy wheels.
08-25-15 | 12:04 PM
#16
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
I should have provided the reason in the OP. The kind of riding I do are rides with my cycling team. Usually 50-70 miles, speeds anywhere from 20-30 mph (I know, it's a big range). I am also a Cat 4 who does crits, so it's not like carbon is going to give me too much of an edge at that level. I also can't afford to have dedicated racing wheels, as many of my teammates do, so cost is another criterion to a preference for alloy wheels.
08-25-15 | 01:10 PM
#18
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Around 1,200-1,300 grams for the wheelset. The front wheel cost $50 as part of a vintage tubular wheelset. GEL 280 rim. The rear wheel is a Fast Forward carbon tubular that had stripped threads on the axle end. I fixed. This wheel cost me $60 including the fix.
Vintage tubular wheels make great commuters. I've never paid more than $100 for a complete wheelset.
Vintage tubular wheels make great commuters. I've never paid more than $100 for a complete wheelset.
08-25-15 | 01:19 PM
#19
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
For commuting to work, I run a alu tubular wheel on the front and carbon tubular on the rear. With the appropriate brake pads of course. The alu on the front gives a bit more bite for braking, especially in the rain. Overall this setup is lighter than any clincher wheelset, full carbon or otherwise, regardless of cost.
08-25-15 | 03:33 PM
#20
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During triathalon events, many competitors stash spare tubulars on the far end of the course. And then don't pick them after the race up because it is too much hassle. I picked up my multi-decade supply of tires through an Ironman cleanup crew.
Anyway, I like Conti Sprinters and Tufos. The tires are spiked with 20cc of Stan's sealant, allowing me to go months between flats. I assume the tires are pinpricked with a dozen holes before I get finally tired of the tire, or a big hunk of glass takes out the tire casing. Stan's deals with the little holes.
Anyway, I like Conti Sprinters and Tufos. The tires are spiked with 20cc of Stan's sealant, allowing me to go months between flats. I assume the tires are pinpricked with a dozen holes before I get finally tired of the tire, or a big hunk of glass takes out the tire casing. Stan's deals with the little holes.
08-25-15 | 04:45 PM
#21
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 13,144
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII, 23 3T Strada
Around 1,200-1,300 grams for the wheelset. The front wheel cost $50 as part of a vintage tubular wheelset. GEL 280 rim. The rear wheel is a Fast Forward carbon tubular that had stripped threads on the axle end. I fixed. This wheel cost me $60 including the fix.
Vintage tubular wheels make great commuters. I've never paid more than $100 for a complete wheelset.
Vintage tubular wheels make great commuters. I've never paid more than $100 for a complete wheelset.
08-25-15 | 05:35 PM
#24
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Absolutely. This is for when your bike frame asplodes at least there is something left to salvage.
