Top Five Worst Cycling Inventions
#76
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While it can happen, I simply don't see how you'd make it further than 5 feet without realizing it. I guess if you never use the front brake (I pretty much only use the front brake) you may be less likely to notice but still it is hard for me to imagine.
FWIW, I have always had the QR on my front disc brake bike on the right side. It's easier to use that way as the caliper doesn't get in the way of grabbing it.
FWIW, I have always had the QR on my front disc brake bike on the right side. It's easier to use that way as the caliper doesn't get in the way of grabbing it.
#77
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#79
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If I ever see the guy again I will ask him since the wheel falling off came as a shock to him and everyone else. Maybe it's because some people are not in tune with things. Imagine the old couple that drives the entire Gadsden Purchase with the left turn signal of their RV blinking. He looked like a relative novice, so maybe that explains it.
#80
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I'd like to add hipsters who ride fixies to the list...
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#81
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#83
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Cinelli's pre-Look clipless pedals. They were from the early '80s. The cleat slid forward onto the pedal on rails. It was then locked in place by a pin that was raised into the cleat by pulling a button out on the side of the pedal. One released the cleat from the pedal by either reaching down and pushing the button in or by falling down, in which case the ground pushed the release button in for you.
But wait, there's more. The axle was designed with a stress riser inducing angle on it that led to a huge fraction of these pedals failing under load. I have a few friends with lovely scars courtesy of such failures. I still have a set of these pedals and a new pair of the cleats, but my wife forbade any use of them over thirty years ago. I'm not sure why I keep them, maybe because they were the first pedals that allowed my size 51 feet to be comfortable.
But wait, there's more. The axle was designed with a stress riser inducing angle on it that led to a huge fraction of these pedals failing under load. I have a few friends with lovely scars courtesy of such failures. I still have a set of these pedals and a new pair of the cleats, but my wife forbade any use of them over thirty years ago. I'm not sure why I keep them, maybe because they were the first pedals that allowed my size 51 feet to be comfortable.
#85
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That was a pretty early "invention", too.
#88
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Or put the QR on the correct/right side.
For the caliper being mounted out front, if this had been accepted (it was done on a few forks) back in the early 90's when current discs first started to appear, it would be standard, simple thing is, that it didn't take off back then (same as dual discs), and the chances of it happening now are about zero. (note bikes have followed motorbikes in caliper placement, so it's not really a surprise we have them where they are currently located (if you really want a disc for with an out front mount, a UK manufacture Cotic made them, but look to have now gone the normal mount + thru axle design).
What is happening now is thru axles, when the road standard has been ironed out/battles won, QRs for discs may finally dissapear into history.
For the caliper being mounted out front, if this had been accepted (it was done on a few forks) back in the early 90's when current discs first started to appear, it would be standard, simple thing is, that it didn't take off back then (same as dual discs), and the chances of it happening now are about zero. (note bikes have followed motorbikes in caliper placement, so it's not really a surprise we have them where they are currently located (if you really want a disc for with an out front mount, a UK manufacture Cotic made them, but look to have now gone the normal mount + thru axle design).
What is happening now is thru axles, when the road standard has been ironed out/battles won, QRs for discs may finally dissapear into history.
Mountain bikes put it behind so it wouldn't encounter branches. The road world copied the mountain world. Bad idea. Now this bad idea is carved in stone.
Ben
#89
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Real-world experience seems to show that wheel ejection is a non-issue. Lawyer-lips prevent it even with a loose quick release. While the physics might not be your idea of perfect, it still works and the rear mounted caliper looks a lot cleaner than a front mount would. Rear wheels see higher forces and QRs provide sufficient clamping forces there, too, holding the wheel in place so that it doesn't get pulled forward into the frame. Bad idea or not? Ever consider what's going on at the handlebar clamp when sprinting out of the saddle in the drops? All that force resisted only by friction...seems a recipe for disaster, doesn't it?
#90
Senior Member
I was struggling to remove a fix cup with a fix cup wrench (kinda like a giant cone wrench), then an adjustable wrench, then back to the fix cup wrench with a rubber mallet which became a 2 man job.
a buddy press the wrench against the fix cup while I hammer the wrench with the rubber mallet, that finally knock it loose.
That is after I brought the frame to a LBS and they gave up on it.
that is a beautiful tool BTW. I have never seen one.
#91
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Another case of bad engineering IMO were the 2-notch freewheels that usually required destructive removal.
#92
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oh man, I so needed that 3 weeks ago.
I was struggling to remove a fix cup with a fix cup wrench (kinda like a giant cone wrench), then an adjustable wrench, then back to the fix cup wrench with a rubber mallet which became a 2 man job.
a buddy press the wrench against the fix cup while I hammer the wrench with the rubber mallet, that finally knock it loose.
That is after I brought the frame to a LBS and they gave up on it.
that is a beautiful tool BTW. I have never seen one.
I was struggling to remove a fix cup with a fix cup wrench (kinda like a giant cone wrench), then an adjustable wrench, then back to the fix cup wrench with a rubber mallet which became a 2 man job.
a buddy press the wrench against the fix cup while I hammer the wrench with the rubber mallet, that finally knock it loose.
That is after I brought the frame to a LBS and they gave up on it.
that is a beautiful tool BTW. I have never seen one.
#93
Senior Member
I had to resort to the Sheldon Brown fixed cup tool (Tool Tips--Bottom Bracket Cups) plus an impact wrench to remove the one on my 1984 Trek 660. I had tried a massive adjustable wrench and then the Sheldon tool and a big breaker bar plus lot of soaking in PB Blaster. Still stuck. The impact wrench made easy work of it though it was a bit scary. Surprisingly no real rust, the thing was just super tight in the frame.
Same here I was so surprised there was no corrosion on the cup or the frame. But the thread felt bone dry, who ever assemble it did not use enough grease. I dont think the bike was ever over hauled since it was assembled. Mine was a 20 plus year Italian thread BB. I keep questioning myself am I turning it the right (left) way.
#94
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Secure the tool into the FW with a QR skewer, then clamp the tool into a bench vise and turn the wheel ala Ralph Kramden.
Works every time...
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#95
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Trek Y Foil 77. An iconic classic brought bang upto date. - Weight Weenies Need to see what this guy did w/ a y-foil.
I'd vote for the easton beartrap as one of the worst.
I'd vote for the easton beartrap as one of the worst.