Please Help, brake housing unit, sliding
#1
Please Help, brake housing unit, sliding
Hello,
I have a Trek Madone 4.5 and the brake constantly shift back and forth and rub on the wheel. I have straightened them and tightened them down, but they start to slide. I can get them to stay put if I crank down on the screw but am afraid of breaking the carbon frame. Any suggestions?
Example: I was cleaning my bike, hopped on it for a quick ride around the block and noticed I was stopping as soon as a stopped pedaling. I hopped off and looked at my brake pads only the find the front and back brake housing units had shifted over so one brake pad was constantly rubbing the wheel.
Broady
I have a Trek Madone 4.5 and the brake constantly shift back and forth and rub on the wheel. I have straightened them and tightened them down, but they start to slide. I can get them to stay put if I crank down on the screw but am afraid of breaking the carbon frame. Any suggestions?
Example: I was cleaning my bike, hopped on it for a quick ride around the block and noticed I was stopping as soon as a stopped pedaling. I hopped off and looked at my brake pads only the find the front and back brake housing units had shifted over so one brake pad was constantly rubbing the wheel.
Broady
#2
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
You might find good advice on the Bicycle Mechanics forum.
Meanwhile, is your brake cable pulling or pushing on the caliper because it is too short OR too long, respectively? Is the knurled washer, that keeps the caliper straight, missing? Are you adjusting the caliper position as recommended by the manufacturer, not just "ham fisting" it. Which brake, front or back?
Meanwhile, is your brake cable pulling or pushing on the caliper because it is too short OR too long, respectively? Is the knurled washer, that keeps the caliper straight, missing? Are you adjusting the caliper position as recommended by the manufacturer, not just "ham fisting" it. Which brake, front or back?
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 654
From: Minas Ithil
Are you saying the caliper won't stay centered, or the fixing bolt going through the frame is coming loose? If they just won't stay centered then try lubricating the contact points where the springs touch the caliper. If the fixing bolt is coming loose then, I don't know maybe put some locktite on it.
#4
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
The first step is to determine if the entire brake is moving with respect to the frame, or it's something the brake. So, remove the wheel and twist the caliper to see how much force is needed to move it on the pivot bolt. If it feels pretty tight and resists, then we know that the problem isn't there and tightening it more won't help.
If it does move fairly easily, the issue might be that the bolt is running out of thread and it'll be impossible to tighten, or you need to improve traction between the brake and frame. They make star washers for this job, and if you don't have them consider adding one. The thickness of a washer will also solve the running out of threads issue.
If it is within the caliper, more details -- front or rear brake, type and model of brake, and anything else you have to offer including photos.
If it does move fairly easily, the issue might be that the bolt is running out of thread and it'll be impossible to tighten, or you need to improve traction between the brake and frame. They make star washers for this job, and if you don't have them consider adding one. The thickness of a washer will also solve the running out of threads issue.
If it is within the caliper, more details -- front or rear brake, type and model of brake, and anything else you have to offer including photos.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#5
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: SF Bay Area, East bay
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200, Soma double cross 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball, Waterford rs11
Washer looks like this... https://www.amazon.com/Campagnolo-Br-.../dp/B0096XJXZ0 . They break apart sometimes if over torqued.
#6
Thanks for all the responses. It's the entire brake unit that can move. It is FRONT and BACK. If I "ham-fist" it on there, it doesn't really move. I'm taking it in to the LBS to have everything stripped and cleaned. Hopefully, they will have a solution.
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Steve Sawyer
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