This will be the first time I've replaced a chain. I have a 2012 SRAM Rival group set. I've probably ridden it close to 2000 miles, with few hills but probably a lot of bad pedaling from my early days (shifting under heavy load, cross chaining). The chain isn't yet at the 'stretch' limit -- as measured with a metal ruler, 10 links are only about 1/32" too long, but there's some noise despite having the derailleurs properly adjusted, and I'm engaged in a general bout of bike maintenance.

I see a lot of positive reviews of KMC chains. Would this https://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-.../dp/B001AYOP9M be a good choice?

SRAM also makes the 1091R, 1091, PC1071, 1051, and 1031. I assume that the higher numbers are higher quality and lighter. Would a SRAM chain likely be quieter and/or shift better on my SRAM cogs? Which of these SRAM chains are the best price point for a casual enthusiast -- I doubt I'll ever need to change my chain more than once a year, so I don't mind spending a bit more, but I don't need to waste money.

It appears all the chains I'm looking at have a master link. I have a simple chain tool on a multi-tool I just bought -- I'm assuming this is all I'll need, correct?

I'm using this video as my main guide: How to replace a chain - BikeRadar USA
If the rear is still a little noisy when I'm done with this, I may also replace the rear cassette, but that seems excessive right now. Thanks in advance.

KMC is good.

SRAM chains noisier IMO (even on my SRAM drivetrains)

Don't expect a lot from a $4 multi tool.

I think that KMC chain is best bang for the buck. If you are a weight weenie you can spend another $20 or so to drop about 20 grams but highly unnecessary. The only tool you need is chain breaker but missing link tool makes install a little easier and if you have to remove it it will be a lot easier

KMC Missing Link Remover Pliers | Chain Reaction Cycles

+1, it's worth spending $10-15 on a good chain tool from Park, Pedros or equivalent

Thanks. I just checked after posting, to see what chain I have now. It turns out I have a KMC DX10sc on there now. Would my Cannondale CAAD10 Rival have come with this chain? I didn't think the chain had been replaced when when I'd had the shop tune the bike before, but maybe so.

So you think this multitool will be inadequate to get the chain off, and remove the excess links from the new chain, or will it just be some extra trouble? I assume with the quick-link I won't need anything to get the new one on.

I have a pair needle nose pliers with long, thin jaws and a 90 degree bend (so when closing the jaws stay parallel). It seems like this would work for the missing link, or am I fooling myself?

I had trouble pushing out the link on a new Ultegra 11-speed chain, using this small Park Tool chain tool, CT-5. It needed quite a bit more leverage than my older 10-speed chains. I used an adjustable wrench to hold the loop on the tool. The CT-5 worked fine on my previous 10-speed chains.

The pins on 10 and 11-speed chains have a mushroomed rivet-style cap on the pins. It breaks off as you push the pin out. So don't re-use a pin, it'll be weak, maybe just good enough to get home if the chain breaks on a ride.




I think you'd have a hard time using even a quality name brand multitool version. Not enough leverage.
Expect that your $4 multitool chain tool will break, and you'll still need a "real" chain tool. That $4 tool uses the multitool body for leverage--good. But it all depends on how strong the breaker body is.


Sram quick link
I like the Sram Powerlinks for 11-speed chains. Easy to install, and fool proof. See my post in another thread for more info on installing and removing these.

Well, you need a chain breaker to get your new chain down to size... and if your needle nose doesn't work - you can always use the chain breaker to get your old chain off too.

It's possible to remove the KMC master link with your fingers btw, the tool just makes it much easier.

While I don't necessarily disagree with that statement, it is important to note that paying a little more for a lighter chain is not by default about weight weenieism. Reducing the mass of the chain in a dynamic system like a drive-train improves shifting. It is better. How much better? That is not so easy to answer, but it is worth it to me. YMMV

Also, having those missing link pliars is worth it to me as well. I change my chains about 3 times per year. Trying to pinch rollers is a real hassle with needle-nose pliers and simply effortless with the missing link pliers.

If you have a grinder, the plier tips can be

thinned down to fit.

Agreed. The KMC X10 SL will quiet your drivetrain.

Cheap enough Park tool.

Looks like I should have gotten a multi-tool without the chain tool attachment, and a separate chain breaker. Oh well, it didn't cost much. I also just checked if my 90-degree needle nose will work, since I have a KMC with missing link on the bike now (which was apparently OEM) -- it won't work, since it won't fit into the links that have inside plates, as it needs to. So I'll get the missing link pliers, too. My wife's bike chain is close to needed replacement, too, so I'll put these new tools to use right away, and be ready for next time.

I'm going to go with the KMC X10SL, even though it's a bit pricier. And I'll get the KMC X9SL for the wife. For a chain breaker, do you recommend the Topeak or the Oumers Universal Tool?
https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-2011-U...eak+chain+tool
https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Univer...rds=chain+tool

With a little finagling you can remove a missing link by folding the chain into a U with the link at the bottom and squeezing the adjacent links toward each other with a pliers. And there are other techniques as well. But the Park tool is just dead simple.