Padding in shorts. Why not in the saddle?
#201
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Joined: Oct 2010
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Have you tried anything with modern Campy levers? I don't recall the exact number of gears, but their groups from Chorus on up allow you to shift multiple gears with a longer sweep of either the thumb trigger or the paddle (so both directions on the cassette).
I had an old bike with Chorus and I'd regularly dump multiple gears at once when hitting a hill using the thumb lever. Worked perfectly.
Shimano downshifts work the same way, just with fewer gears per lever sweep.
I had an old bike with Chorus and I'd regularly dump multiple gears at once when hitting a hill using the thumb lever. Worked perfectly.
Shimano downshifts work the same way, just with fewer gears per lever sweep.
SOTR is still open for more riders. I know plenty of Richmond riders do it. You need to go ahead, register, and give it a try! I am so not ready for it this year. It will be a lot of riding over the next 2 weeks to get into some kind of reasonable shape.
Last edited by seypat; 05-05-17 at 11:21 AM.
#202
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So, pick your drivetrain. A double in front and whatever you want in back. You are hammering down a hill on your big/small combo. At the bottom you come to an up that sends you to your small/big combo, or close to it. You top that hill and back to your big/small combo. Each time you are hitting those STIs to move that drivetrain however many cogs it takes. All of those other 2-3 cog shifts as well.
Same situations with friction, you move 1 or both levers 1 time each to get to the gear you want. Over the course of a long ride, that is a lot less moving of the shifting levers. I know what the advantages of STIs/indexing are, and have tried them. For the riding I do I prefer friction.
Same situations with friction, you move 1 or both levers 1 time each to get to the gear you want. Over the course of a long ride, that is a lot less moving of the shifting levers. I know what the advantages of STIs/indexing are, and have tried them. For the riding I do I prefer friction.
#203
Senior Member

Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,103
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From: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)
So, pick your drivetrain. A double in front and whatever you want in back. You are hammering down a hill on your big/small combo. At the bottom you come to an up that sends you to your small/big combo, or close to it. You top that hill and back to your big/small combo. Each time you are hitting those STIs to move that drivetrain however many cogs it takes. All of those other 2-3 cog shifts as well.
That said, with Campy Chorus it would take one push on the left shifter and and three on the right to go big/small to small/big using an 11 speed cassette. Going small/big to big/small would be one of the left and two on the right.
#204
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Joined: Sep 2011
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So, pick your drivetrain. A double in front and whatever you want in back. You are hammering down a hill on your big/small combo. At the bottom you come to an up that sends you to your small/big combo, or close to it. You top that hill and back to your big/small combo. Each time you are hitting those STIs to move that drivetrain however many cogs it takes. All of those other 2-3 cog shifts as well.
Same situations with friction, you move 1 or both levers 1 time each to get to the gear you want. Over the course of a long ride, that is a lot less moving of the shifting levers. I know what the advantages of STIs/indexing are, and have tried them. For the riding I do I prefer friction.
Same situations with friction, you move 1 or both levers 1 time each to get to the gear you want. Over the course of a long ride, that is a lot less moving of the shifting levers. I know what the advantages of STIs/indexing are, and have tried them. For the riding I do I prefer friction.
I have never desired to go from big/small to small/big as one change, and I ride some pretty hilly terrain. If I ever even need to downshift the front without going up a few cogs in the rear I'd guess that I was totally sleeping/ignoring the signs that I should have been shifting long ago.
#205
Thanks for answering earnestly, but the above does raise another question - when was the last time that you tried integrated shifters? Given the actuation force for everything except the small-to-big chainring, "whacking" is probably the last word that springs to mind for me.
#207
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Joined: Aug 2013
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 2017 Cannondale CAAD12 105, 2014 Giant Escape City
#210
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Joined: May 2004
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From: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)
I don't think he is even saying that friction prevents a poor reaction. If I had to guess, it's that friction makes it so undesirable to make small gearing tweaks that he waits until the last second to shift in situations with greatly varying terrain so that he only needs to shift once per change. Why else would someone find it acceptable to give up so much momentum by making such a vast gearing change as big/small to small/big?
#211
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,103
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From: Wilmington, DE
Bikes: 2016 Hong Fu FM-079-F, 1984 Trek 660, 2005 Iron Horse Warrior Expert, 2009 Pedal Force CX1, 2016 Islabikes Beinn 20 (son's)
#212
Duke Ulysses
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 800
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From: Southern California
Bikes: An old orange one for dirt, and for the other stuff: a white one, a kinda mint green one, and a black one.
#215
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Joined: Oct 2010
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I have never desired to go from big/small to small/big as one change, and I ride some pretty hilly terrain. If I ever even need to downshift the front without going up a few cogs in the rear I'd guess that I was totally sleeping/ignoring the signs that I should have been shifting long ago.
That said, with Campy Chorus it would take one push on the left shifter and and three on the right to go big/small to small/big using an 11 speed cassette. Going small/big to big/small would be one of the left and two on the right.
That said, with Campy Chorus it would take one push on the left shifter and and three on the right to go big/small to small/big using an 11 speed cassette. Going small/big to big/small would be one of the left and two on the right.
This. The movement of the derailleurs needs to be the same in both cases. I don't see how having friction prevents a dropped chain or poor reaction. If anything its easier because as you carry your momentum into the 10% hill you can shift while standing easily with STIs and continue to bang out gears without missing a beat. I've ridden friction plenty and never felt like either was limiting, and I've never felt at the end of a ride that I spent too much time shifting, usually just too much time suffering. I know steep hills with poor run ins. I ride and commute in seattle and the greater PNW.
We have to consider the quality of the rider here. I am about as low as it gets as far as climbing ability. Really scraping the bottom of the barrel. Heck, I might have to go up a cog just to get over a speed bump in the parking lot. Where others see a mole hill, I see a mountain.
The chain dropping and poor reactions are from other riders. I see it every year at the same place on the same ride. It could be rider/route inexperience there. Nice fun rolling descent, then a 90 degree right to an immediate out of the saddle to start up the hill. After that turn, you are barely moving. People look up and start going through the gears. If they haven't got to the gear they need it about 5 or 10 yards, it is too late. They try to stand and grind it out, but momentum is gone and they fall over.(after a few front wheel waggles) 2 years in a row my rear axle slipped in the dropout at the start of that grind. I finally wised up and always make it extra tight before we start going down the hill before that turn.
#217
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From: Seattle
#218
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Joined: Oct 2010
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I'm obviously a slow typist as well.
With friction I only have to move the lever/levers only once whether I am moving 1 gear(ratio) away or 10. I don't know if that makes sense to the rest of you or not. Here is an analogy. I have type O blood so I get called every 2 weeks to donate platelets. You have to sit on the machine and during the draw cycle, you have to squeeze a palm ball every 3-5 seconds. The physical movement(to me) of squeezing that ball is similar to shifting a STI lever, just more exaggerated. I was thinking about this very thing last time I donated as I was pondering that frame I need to build. After an hour of squeezing that ball, my forearm is really pumped up and tight. I've had about all of it I can take. Comparing the squeezing of the ball with the bike shifting, if it is friction, I only have to squeeze that ball(shift/move the lever) once or twice(if I shift both front and back) each 3 to 5 seconds. If it is indexed/STI I have to squeeze that ball(shift/move the lever) more that only once or twice per squeeze.(unless I only move 1 cog) With the indexed/STI I might be squeezing that ball 5+ times every 3-5 seconds. That is a whole lot more squeezing/shifting over an hours worth of donating/riding and my forearms get pumped/tighter/uncomfortable faster.
That analogy probably confuses everyone even more. Maybe I'm just a big wuss and need to HTFU!
Thanks for answering earnestly, but the above does raise another question - when was the last time that you tried integrated shifters? Given the actuation force for everything except the small-to-big chainring, "whacking" is probably the last word that springs to mind for me.
I had no idea some people found shifting so complex.
I don't think he is even saying that friction prevents a poor reaction. If I had to guess, it's that friction makes it so undesirable to make small gearing tweaks that he waits until the last second to shift in situations with greatly varying terrain so that he only needs to shift once per change. Why else would someone find it acceptable to give up so much momentum by making such a vast gearing change as big/small to small/big?
That analogy probably confuses everyone even more. Maybe I'm just a big wuss and need to HTFU!
#219
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#220
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Joined: Sep 2011
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First of all, let's talk about padded shorts vs padded saddles. Really, whatever works for you is fine and dandy. Life is too short to worry about it.
We have to consider the quality of the rider here. I am about as low as it gets as far as climbing ability. Really scraping the bottom of the barrel. Heck, I might have to go up a cog just to get over a speed bump in the parking lot. Where others see a mole hill, I see a mountain.
The chain dropping and poor reactions are from other riders. I see it every year at the same place on the same ride. It could be rider/route inexperience there. Nice fun rolling descent, then a 90 degree right to an immediate out of the saddle to start up the hill. After that turn, you are barely moving. People look up and start going through the gears. If they haven't got to the gear they need it about 5 or 10 yards, it is too late. They try to stand and grind it out, but momentum is gone and they fall over.(after a few front wheel waggles) 2 years in a row my rear axle slipped in the dropout at the start of that grind. I finally wised up and always make it extra tight before we start going down the hill before that turn.
We have to consider the quality of the rider here. I am about as low as it gets as far as climbing ability. Really scraping the bottom of the barrel. Heck, I might have to go up a cog just to get over a speed bump in the parking lot. Where others see a mole hill, I see a mountain.
The chain dropping and poor reactions are from other riders. I see it every year at the same place on the same ride. It could be rider/route inexperience there. Nice fun rolling descent, then a 90 degree right to an immediate out of the saddle to start up the hill. After that turn, you are barely moving. People look up and start going through the gears. If they haven't got to the gear they need it about 5 or 10 yards, it is too late. They try to stand and grind it out, but momentum is gone and they fall over.(after a few front wheel waggles) 2 years in a row my rear axle slipped in the dropout at the start of that grind. I finally wised up and always make it extra tight before we start going down the hill before that turn.
#221
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Middletown NY
Bikes: Cannondale SuperSix EVO w Hi-Mod frame, Raleigh Tamland 1 and Giant Anthem X
Last year, when I started cycling and knew nothing about nothing regarding the sport, I bought those silly gel seat covers. Turns out, they made riding less comfortable so I tried the padded cycling shorts as suggested by some new found cycling friends.
Unbeknownst to me, I wore underwear with them and gym shorts over the cycling shorts. I must have looked like a total ass and once home, the underwear were sweat soaked and grungy.
Eventually, I learned that a quality pair of cycling shorts is all that you want or need and the difference in comfort was amazing.
I don't know why padded shorts work FAR better than padded saddle's but that's just the way it is. I learned that through trial and error, but think the general consensus agrees with that statement.
What hurts even more is the money that I've spent to learn how to comfortably ride a road bike!
Unbeknownst to me, I wore underwear with them and gym shorts over the cycling shorts. I must have looked like a total ass and once home, the underwear were sweat soaked and grungy.
Eventually, I learned that a quality pair of cycling shorts is all that you want or need and the difference in comfort was amazing.
I don't know why padded shorts work FAR better than padded saddle's but that's just the way it is. I learned that through trial and error, but think the general consensus agrees with that statement.
What hurts even more is the money that I've spent to learn how to comfortably ride a road bike!
#222
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 28,682
Likes: 63
From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
I have never considered there were supposed to be gains from the additional cogs. And yet now that you bring it up, I do get very significant gains. I ride in Flatland and use very few cogs to cover my range of speeds. With an 11-speed cassette starting at 12 teeth, I have about 5 useful cogs. With 8 speed, I might have 3. I like the closer spacing. It makes a difference to me.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 05-06-17 at 06:01 AM.
#223
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 28,682
Likes: 63
From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Last year, when I started cycling and knew nothing about nothing regarding the sport, I bought those silly gel seat covers. Turns out, they made riding less comfortable so I tried the padded cycling shorts as suggested by some new found cycling friends.
Unbeknownst to me, I wore underwear with them and gym shorts over the cycling shorts. I must have looked like a total ass and once home, the underwear were sweat soaked and grungy.
Eventually, I learned that a quality pair of cycling shorts is all that you want or need and the difference in comfort was amazing.
I don't know why padded shorts work FAR better than padded saddle's but that's just the way it is. I learned that through trial and error, but think the general consensus agrees with that statement.
What hurts even more is the money that I've spent to learn how to comfortably ride a road bike!
Unbeknownst to me, I wore underwear with them and gym shorts over the cycling shorts. I must have looked like a total ass and once home, the underwear were sweat soaked and grungy.
Eventually, I learned that a quality pair of cycling shorts is all that you want or need and the difference in comfort was amazing.
I don't know why padded shorts work FAR better than padded saddle's but that's just the way it is. I learned that through trial and error, but think the general consensus agrees with that statement.
What hurts even more is the money that I've spent to learn how to comfortably ride a road bike!
#224
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 4,272
Likes: 1,304
From: Seattle
I have never considered there were supposed to be gains from the additional cogs. And yet now that you bring it us, I do get very significant gains. I ride in Flatland and use very few cogs to cover my range of speeds. With an 11-speed cassette starting at 12 teeth, I have about 5 useful cogs. With 8 speed, I might have 3. I like the closer spacing. It makes a difference to me.




