apologize as english is not my native language, can't quite put the experience into written words

No need to apologize.

They do make a version for small hands now, but you already have something different that works for you.

are you saying that the 11-30 11sp cassette should have enough clearance on the 10 speed freehub?

No, only the 11-34 will fit on a 10sp freehub.

No, sorry. I believe its only the 11-34 that can be fit to a 10sp free hub.

I have had the lever slip in as well. It can happen if you only use the tip of your fingers to brake. Im not a big fan of the combined brake/shifter either, but then again it works just fine and its not a biggie.

The newer (4700, 5800, ... ) levers can be adjusted in, for small hands, with a small allen screw under the hood. The older models need a shim between the lever and the lever body

I am going from ultegra on my backup bike to 5800 105 on my new bike. Granted, the ultegra is now 10 years old but it has performed great and if anything, the 105 is even smoother. Sorry the new version wasn't already out when I bought the new bike.

Is there a reason why you couldn't adjust the reach on the break lever?

Agreed, it's a much better pricepoint. Was just pointing out that it wasn't a new feature of that cassette in case that wasn't clear.

I agree. The 105 on my Colnago World Cup CX is the best shifting group on any of my bikes The others are 11 yr. old Dura Ace and 3 yr.old SRAM Red.

I thought that crank looked kind of bulbous. Not a fan.

Wasn't the significant change to the 105's front derailleur he talks about taken care of late last year when they released the FD-5801-B ??

I'm not a fan of the look of the new crank spiders with respect to how they look on vintage bikes. Nonetheless I put one on my 1991 Paramount as I can change the chainwheels from my 52/36 to a 50/34 without having to remove the crank. Nice for the few times I might need a little more climbing ability.

I'm putting another on my '78 Raleigh Competition soon after I get it painted. Have all the latest editions of the 5800 groupset sitting in boxes under my desk as I type this. Both glad and sad that there wasn't something so significant to make me wish I'd waited.

For newer bikes I think the aesthetic works well.

Yes, but it was a very quiet release. A lot of people still don't know about it.

I find it easier to just swap the crank, takes under 5mins to pull and reinstall a hollowtech 2 crank and the chainrings cost almost as much whole crank.

But you can buy the crankset, remove the chainwheel then sell the crank arms and spider on Ebay where people pay more than retail.

Rider doesn't fit the bike = it's the design's fault

I have small hands as well which is why I initially preferred SRAM hoods and levers, but I've since gone full Shimano with 6800 and 5800 and I have never had an issue panic-braking in traffic on my commutes. If anything, the fact that the levers are larger makes me feel safer because there's a lot more lever to actually grab if you need to. You've got to be doing something totally wonky if you shift when you're trying to brake.

That's what I was thinking.

I know many women with small hands, and I've never heard them complain about it, but I can see how it could happen.

Oh F no.

You cant shift while braking. The mechanism disengages when you depress the lever. You can however loose the grip om the lever because it slips to the side. It has happened to me as well. My little gripe with the combined lever is the occasional misshift that happens because you unintentionally depress the lever a little. Imo not a biggie, but yeah it does happen, at least to me. Oh, while Im at it. Why cant Shimano make the levers engage immediately. Both of them has several degrees of unneeded/unwanted slop. Especially the little paddle.

Mini rant over ... :-)

Sidetracked.
Like we expected DC STI to change suddenly on a 105 groupset? Really?
Back to non-under tape design? Really?

More on Topic.
11-34 on ten speed hub. Cool.
Crank design polarizing. Cool.

I have t wonder where people are riding that they need an 11-34. I'm running an 11-28 10 sp. and I just bought a 12-26 cause I don't think I need a 28. FWIW, I am somewhat climbing challenged and it's not flat around here.

because there isn't any built-in adjustment on Tiagra lever, you need to buy spacer separately
I'd rather use a dedicated brake lever plus a built-in reach adjustment on my current shifter

You can do this with any compact crank, whether four- of five-bolt.

I see. I didn't know that wasn't available with Tiagra.

For me it is when the ride starts at +8,000' and goes up from there, being 99% of my riding is in the 800' elevation range.