I keep going back to their pages and feeling the tug to pick up another pair of rims. The only problem is I built a pair of wheels on LB rims a couple years ago, and they're doing great, so there's zero justification for me to think about building another set. I just can't help thinking about it though. I'd love to build a set of wheels on the AR56 or WR50 rims. I wish they'd design something a little asymmetric as far as the spoke holes go; the only problem I've had with my AeroClyde wheels was a need to tweak the whole rear wheel's tension after a couple of thousand miles due to very low NDS spoke tension. That wasn't a dig at their rims, since it's likely my limited wheelbuilding experience just lead to a sub-optimal original tensioning, or it may be a fact of life given my superclyde weight class, but an asymmetric spoke hole drilling would at least make it easier to get good tension on both sides.

They also increased the hub options.

The temptation for me are the AR46 - I don't think that I can get away with anything wider with my R3 and they'd be a little wider and a little deeper than my current Assaults (which I could probably sell and break even). If the AR56 weren't 30mm wide, I'd think about a mixed depth 46/56 pair.

Question for the wheelbuilders: without the rim bed spoke holes, how do you get the nipples in place?

Follow-up question: is the additional build hassle worth it when you consider that you don't have to tape up the rims for tubeless use? That would be kind of nice...

I built my AeroClyde wheels using the LB RR46 rims, which I think is the same as AR46. They're 28mm wide. I'd really dig having the newer 50mm deep by 32mm wide rim, since I'm using 32mm tires that inflate to more like 34mm. My rims would be a closer match to my tires. Given the 6mm disparity between my tire width and the rim width, it's likely that the aero benefits of my rims are largely negated, and hopefully the 32mm rim width would help here. The actual benefit in real life to this superclyde cyclist is probably not worth the money, but since this is a hobby, no good financial justification necessarily has to pass muster.

I'm curious about this too. I haven't built many wheels (five wheels in total), so my experience is very limited, but I honestly don't mind the spoke holes. Rim tape has worked well enough for me. I could see it being nice not having to deal with it at all, but I don't see it as a dealbreaker.

It's a PITA, but you use a little piece that threads into the nipple and drag it to the spoke hole with a magnet.

You have to insert each nipple through the valve stem hole, then drag it through the rim with a magnet. And since aluminum/bass are non-ferrous metals, you have to thread a steel screw onto each one in order for them to work with the magnet...it sounds pretty tedious, and personally, I wouldn't want to do it.

EDIT: Noodle beat me to it

Thank you for your comments.

Now I think I am little bit more lost... I have been told that the combination of AR46 or AR56 with 28mm tires is not going to be aero... I thought it was a good combo.... would be better with 25mm tires? Then I have the doubt if could mount the AR56 with the constraint of the break width which I have read in other posts before...

Don’t worry about that too much unless you’re doing a TT or something. The difference in drag between a 25mm tire and a 28mm tire will be a couple watts at 30mph on the 56 or even 46 rim, assuming you go for a narrower 28 like the GP5k or Schwalbe Pro One Addix. Even a Vittoria Corsa 28 will be fine. If you want a 28mm tire, get a 28mm tire.

That being said, if you have rim brakes, that might be tough. The new gen Shimano brakes have (almost) no trouble fitting the 56 rims (the brake pads will initially be at an angle), and definitely no issues with the 46 rims. A narrower 28 on the 46 will be doable, a narrower 28 on the 56 will be cutting it close and a fatter 28 on the 56 will probably be too much, depending on how your brake is mounted.

What bike do you have? What is the stated tire clearance for it? Usually rears have more clearance so you could go for a 25/28 combo, which is the best of both worlds.

Hi, thank you for your answer.

So I have a Canyon Grail (gravel bike) with an aluminium frame. I have mounted the original Shimano 105 RT7020, if I am not wrong. They are disk brakes. In terms of clearance, I guess I will not have any issue, since I have currently mounted my 40mm gravel tires with the original wheels.
My intention is to get a second wheel-set for road and according to many posts I have read, a 28mm (with tubes in my case) could be one of the best options. Considering this tire, I am looking for the perfect wheel.
I have been told that the best fit for a 28mm tire would be to get a wheel with around 18mm inner width? Is this correct? On this case, maybe a LB R45 or R55 would be a good option with 18mm inner width and 25mm outer width. On the other hand, many of you are taking the LB AR46/54 which have 21&23mm inner width and 28&30mm outer width...... Here is where my confusion is coming....
Thanks again for your comments!!

28mm GP5Ks will measure out to 30mm on a set of AR46's and ride/handle great. I'm trying out a set of 32mm GP5Ks today (different wheelset tho), haven't measured them yet, but they look to be a good bit bigger, taller especially. Ride should be great, I'm interested to see if there's any difference in speed.

Given that you have no clearance issues on the Grail, I would go wide.

You're getting in to the weeds.

Most here are going with as wide as they can, factoring in current and near-future bikes. Why wouldn't *I* go with an R45? Because any bike that I have (or would consider buying) will clear an AR46. Why wouldn't I get WR45s? Because one of my current bikes can't clear 32mm and because I'm fine limiting myself to the comfort/pressures of 28mm tires on future bikes.

Yeah with disc brakes I would skip straight to the WR50 ($$) or WR45 ($) and put 28-32mm tires on it. Since you have a grail, I assume you’re not doing elite races on it. So there’s very limited benefit to going with narrower tires for you. Don’t feel pressured to go with narrow stuff like UCI racers. A lot of amateur racers in CA are moving to 28s these days.

Thank you for your answers They are very helpful. I am reading a lot of information but in some cases is a little bit confusing. As a conclusion, in my case where I do not have a constraint in terms of clearance, your recommendation is to go wider and in that case to go with the WR50 or WR45. Would I get any aero benefit with the deeper WR50? About the tire I have clear that I will go with 28mm (with tubes). I have read a lot as well about the 105% rule which has been discussed on in some pages before.... should I consider it seriously?
Thanks!!

105% rule is worth a few watts, unless you're chasing every second and racing competitively, go for comfort and grip. If your roads are moderate to crappy, like the roads here, comfort will equal speed. I have about 150 miles on the 32's now and they are fantastic. No loss in speed, big gains in comfort and grip. I love to descend fast, and feel even more comfortable leaning deep into the turns.

With the clearance you have, I would go with WR45s and 32mm GP5Ks all day, tires will probably measure out to at least 34mm, maybe closer to 36, lots of volume for comfort and grip. Yes, in a wind tunnel or TT, a skinnier aero optimized setup will be faster, but for real world riding, this will be comfortable and fast.

Over the last year, I've gone from 23s to 25s to 28s to 32s, and so far it's only gotten better each time. If Continental made a 35mm GP5K, I'd try it. (caveat, I'm a "bigger" guy, system weight with me and the bike is around 210-215lbs, so smaller riders probably wouldn't notice as much of a difference, but it's been great for me).

I have a similar LB wheelset (56mm hoops and DT350 hubs) and couldn't be happier.

The 105 rule thing is overhyped and more of a “rule of thumb”. The goal here is to easily “reattach” airflow (efficient /sailing airflow) in crosswinds from a stall (inefficient / air brake). As a rider, this means you’ll get a wind sail in crosswinds and the wheels should be less jerky in crosswinds as the airflow should reattach less abruptly. (If you look at the graphs, off to the right/left, you want the curve going back upwards gently, not with an aggressive change)

Aero benefit on the wr45 vs wr50? Probably negligible, but the WR50 has more of a V shape and sail area, so maybe 2-3w. The WR45 is probably better in crosswinds.

Yes, I have heard many times that the 105 rule is not so important... so, what should I consider to choose the right wheels? Basically I want to choose the proper wheels for a 28mm tire.

Another option would be to mount a 32mm tire in my existing wheels for all days (DT Swiss C1850 - 22mm inner with). I would save money... and there would be much difference comparing this with for example 28mm tire and WR45?

Thanks!!

Unless time is of the essence, why don't you try a 32mm tire on your existing wheels just to see how good they feel, then make your decision on new wheels? If you don't like the 32s after you've ridden them, then you can go back to a 28mm and choose the rims that would best match it. If you really dig the 32s then you'll have your answer.

I'll take my camera out later today and show you exactly what a set of 32mm tires that expand to around 34mm while mounted on my wheels looks like. With the RR46 rims I got from Light Bicycle back in 2017 (that are if I recall 28mm wide) the tires bulge several mm out beyond the rim, though it's not something I'm too worked up about. The 30mm wide rims would probably be better, but the difference wouldn't be great. Bottom line is that in my riding I didn't notice any loss of speed due to these tires and wheels as compared with the 25mm and 28mm wheels I was riding before. If there's a performance difference there it's below the threshold of measurability with my own riding, while the comfort and road feel gains are immediate and obvious.

Balles3188,
Here are a couple of things that may help you put things in context. This is a nominal 32mm Compass (now Rene Herse) Stampede Pass tire mounted on a LightBicycle RR46 rim, which I believe is the same rim as the AR 46. This rim is nominally 28mm wide. As you can see, the tires actually measure out at a bit over 34mm inflated to approximately the max pressure listed on the sidewall (as a SuperClyde cyclist I pretty much need to be at max pressure for a tire, if you're lighter you could easily go a little lower).

You tell me, does this tire bulge way out beyond the rim? The numbers don't lie, this tire certainly bulges out beyond the rim width, but compared to all the narrow alu-rimmed wheels you've owned in the past on this type of bike, it just doesn't seem like that big a deal to me. I know if this were measured in a wind tunnel you'd see some aerodynamic penalty due to this, but since I'm not racing nor going for the hour record, in practice this is something I take notice of, but don't let it bother me too much. My speed and duration on the bike are far more limited by other things (like still being a Superclyde) than they are by these 3mm per side bulge.

Now, if you put a 28mm wheel on there that actually measured at 28mm, this tire/rim combo would be perfect even according to the guys who fret over that 105% rule. In practice a good 28mm tire like the GP5K is probably going to measure out at 30mm or so. Would it be a dealbreaker if it bulged out by 1mm? Probably in theory there would be some consequence, but if you're fretting over that 1mm bulge, you're on a professional racing team and it's not your problem anyway because your team will have people paid to think about this for you. In practice you will never ever notice it at all.

When I built these wheels in 2017 that 46mm deep, 28mm wide rim was the best LightBicycle had on offer. They now have the WR50 rim available, that's 32mm wide and 50mm deep. For my purposes, knowing I'm probably never dropping below 32mm tires again in my lifetime, that would be the absolutely perfect choice. And to be honest, given how Conti GP5K tires always measure out at least a couple mm wider than their nominal width, I'm sure these would even be fine with 28mm GP5K tires too, and certainly for their 32mm versions.

My bike could easily fit these. You'd have to figure out if your bike could. If it couldn't, then you're going to have to use one of the 28mm wide rims. If your bike could handle these, I could see no downside, unless you think you may go back to 25mm tires or whatever. I know I'll never ride 25s again, but I have no idea where you're at on this.

Anyhow, here's what a pair of Compass (Rene Herse) Stampede Pass 32mm tires look like up close mounted on the Light Bicycle 28mm wide rim. Compare that bulge with whatever you're riding now and decide for yourself whether it's a big deal or not. To me it's not a big deal. Depending on how wrapped around the axle people get about aerodynamics and what in theory is good or not for speed, others will differ.

A question for those that went with DT hubs, what ratchet count did you get? and how happy are you with it?
Thanks

My wheels aren't Lights, but I have 240-type hubs with the 36T ratchet. It's engages instantaneously, as far as I can tell, and is very quiet.

18T because I hate freehub drag. I spend most of my time coasting cuz pedaling sucks 😁

On an MTB, I’d never go 18T but with the relatively huge gears and constant pedaling on road bikes, it’s not a big deal imo

I tried all three, 36t was a good balance, but 54t was too loud for me, 18t is super quiet and the lower engagement isn't really a big deal on the road. Really personal preference since we don't need the higher engagement like mtb.

Uouh.. This has been a great answer.. thank you so much!! So I think I have clear now that I will go with the WR45 wheelset. With my Grail with disk brakes I have enough clearance. I will start using 28mm tire the GP5K tires with clinchers. Then I will have the opportunity to change to 32mm in the future to see how do they feel.

Then, apart from the wheels, I need to get the other stuff.
For the hubs, I have received always more or less the same recommendation to get the Swiss 350.
Axles, is LB supplying QR axles?
For the cassete I am thinking about getting a 11-28. Any recommendation?
For the rest of things... I am lost.. (Front and Rear Holes... Ratchet...) Any advise on this?

Thank you in advance!

above 10mph you’d be hard pressed to tell the difference between the 3. Around 5mph, you probably couldn’t tell the difference between a step. Get the 18t; buy the 36t for $30 on eBay if you want to play with it.