Lil better shot with some sun, def like the satin finish.

dang that’s a great looking bike!

Thanks!! I'm loving it, rides and handles great! She just needs di2 and she'll be perfect! (but in all honesty, the 105 performs flawlessly, I just really like di2 lol)

No problems with flex at all. Did you build the wheel or did they?

$2k wheelset from LB? I haven't seen anything in their offerings for that much. I guess I don't know much about those hubs, but it otherwise seems that you get their high end topping out around $1200 or $1300

very deep section rims + low spoke count, can often lead to side-side.



Over an inch of play w/rim brakes?

That's quite obviously not an issue with the rim. If there's play in the wheel, it's a hub issue. Carbon-Ti hubs are top tier as far as I know, so I'd say take it to a shop or get in contact with carbon Ti.

Just to be clear, we're talking "play" and not "flex" right? Those are two very, very different things.

Good to know 👌

Thanks 😂

They built the wheel. The front hub is a Gucci SONDelux Dynamo hub laced to a AR56. Also that's $1900 AUD not USD

I've indeed emailed them, I also just thought maybe someone had experience with these hubs and could enlighten me.

It's side to side play. I'm not sure if I'm strong enough to flex wheels, the most power I can put down is about 800 watts

It's on a pretty standard bike for spacing (specialized roubaix) so I doubt anything is amiss there.

Roubaix for me too

Power doesn't cause lateral flex, weight does. If you're pretty heavy and like to throw the bike around, you might see some brake rub, but you wouldn't be able to replicate that by hand.

Even then, that's really more a hub to dropout/fork relationship. I run centreline X rotors on 350 hubs on my roubaix as above and im 123kg and can drop 1400w in a sprint. Haven't had too many issues outside of wet rides.

Yeah I'm quite light 👍 75kg or so

This is side play, the kind that doesn't feel good! The rear wheel wobbles noticeably on downhills.. I've tightened up the hub a bit and did some more 75kmh descents, it felt OK.. Side play is less significant but still way more than past wheels. I guess I'll continue tightening progressively, and see how it goes

I haven't had any flex on mine, AR46 with a satin finish. They've been great wheels so far (well, until last week). I went with the cheaper Novatec hubs but I'm impressed, roll really well. I've also embraced Tubeless, wasn't as bad as I thought, easy to mount, didn't make too much mess and they feel great. However, I was slowly rolling along on a ride last week when a front spoke suddenly broke, pretty sure I didn't hit anything either. They're at the LBS now getting fixed, I have a feeling that the spoke may have been over tightened but I'll ask when they're ready to pick up.

Arrow straight so far. love them. I am around 66kg and only use them on the road. I use the OEM alloy wheels that came with my bike for gravel.

my wheels from post #1287

I just pulled the trigger on my new set of WR35 wheels for my gravel bike. I didn't opt for the flyweight version. My "system weight" will be around 85 kg, and though that's within the spec for the flyweight, I'd just rather have stronger wheels on gravel. I do ride the gravel bike on the road quite a lot, but the weight savings isn't that important in this case.

thanks for the input.

Pic of my Ridley Helium SLA Disc with the Satin finish AR46 wheels as mentioned above.

I never put up a picture of my WR50s I got a month or two ago .. so here they are! (not on bike now, use your imagination :-)). These have been an awesome gravel riding wheel set with tubeless Conti Terra Speed 35c on my 2020 Roubaix.

If you are getting these wider rims I would also go one step deeper, they have much less wind buffeting side-to-side compared to my Rovals which are also 50mm (more slope to wheel due to thickness means won't catch side gusts as bad). I am happy with these but if I was a racer I would have gone for the WR65.

I bought an 88mm rim on Ebay and laced it up to a 24 hole track hub. When I rode it, it would make this clicking sound, which I think was the rim smacking against the valve extender. I bought rims from the same seller before in 50mm and it was fine. I think for the 88mm rim, the manufacturer did not take into consideration the issues you are referring to. I bought a Boyd 90mm, problem solved. I also have never had that issue with my 808 wheelset.

Finally got around to taking a decent picture of them (AR45). All good with an Everesting and a bit more than 1000mi/1700km on the wheels.

I posted this in the What did you just buy for your gravel bike? thread but thought I'd put this in the "official" Light Bicycle Wheels thread.

I just got my wheelset and had it set up on my Santa Cruz Stigmata.

Light Bicycle Falcon Pro - WR38 Disc - 24H - Hooked Tubeless:

• DT SWISS 240 EXP straight pull Center lock Black
• DT SWISS 240 EXP Shimano Road 11S straight pull Center lock Black EXP 54
• SPOKE Sapim CX Ray with black aluminum nipples
• Quoted weight (no tape, valves, etc) 1428g

The big difference off the bat is the Ratchet EXP 54 hub and the quicker engagement is definitely noticeable. The tire profile (38mm Specialized Pathfinder Pro) is a bit wider (visually) because of the wider internal width (25 mm).

It's hard to be subjective over just one ride but it seemed a bit easier to get to speed and maintain it. I do notice bit more side force from cross winds because of the deeper profile compared to my last rims.

And of course as the mechanic I use told me when I picked it up - "they look the business". Love how my bike is set up.

That's a nice setup all the way around, KJ43. How much did they run you? The shallower depth rim is probably the best all around. I have a set of WR50s on DT240s on my road bike that have about 3000 miles on them now, and they can be a little dicey in a strong crosswind.

It was around $1,400 shipped for the wheelset. With new rotors, cassette, tires, and install it was another $500 or so.

These still have a deeper profile than my last alloy wheelset so I feel the winds a bit more, but it's still not bad at all. I'm really enjoying them so far and I'm really happy with my purchase.

Are there any reviews of the LB Falcon Pro AR465 yet? I couldn't locate any.

I'm trying to decide between:

a.) AR56
b.) AR46
c.) AR465

Haven't decided on hub, but thinking DT350 as weight isn't a priority, since my locale is pretty flat and I will be riding a Canyon Endurace. Aero would make a bigger difference overall for my rides, but this being my first carbon wheel set, not sure how much of a difference the depth really would make between the three options. The roads are good, but any of the above with a 700x28 GP5000 TL should give a good ride from what I've read.

I'm a heavier, but largely inexperienced rider at 106kg. I don't have a large amount of kms under my belt, maybe 5000 total, but most of that experience is pretty far in the past. I do maintain 32-34 kph on my solo rides, unless I'm pushing the distance, which for me is usually as far as I can manage in a few hours before it gets too insufferably hot. Most of my rides are relatively short 1-2 hours and as fast as I can manage, with the odd 100km ride here and there if I'm feeling froggy.

found my next WheelSet

FYI... I ended-up buying a Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack which made installing tight tires considerably easier. I didn't even know this tool existed until I nearly broke myself trying to get GP5000s on my wheels and someone here recommended the tool.

What are the benefits of upgrading wheels alone rather than re-sell the bike and upgrade for a bike with better wheels? I mean, is there a financial benefit to upgrade the wheelset rather than the bike? What do you do with the original wheels? I'm a noob, sorry for the basic questions.