Wheel characteristics and components
#1
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 326
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From: North TX
Bikes: Lynskey R330 Chris Bishop custom steel road bike
Wheel characteristics and components
Yesterday when cleaning my bike I discovered small cracks around a spoke hole on my Fulcrum Racing 5 rear wheel. I shouldn't surprised - they have 31,000 + miles on them.
So I'm beginning the search for new wheels. I ride on fairly rough chip seal roads in North Texas, on flat to rolling terrain. I'm not a weight weenie......and want to stay with AL clincher rims.
My question is....what specific characteristics or wheel components should I be looking for to give me a smoother ride over rough surfaces (chip seal roads - not gravel)?
Wider internal width??? Shorter rim height??? Straight pull versus j bend spokes? Does weight play a part in ride quality?
Or is the ride quality of a wheel largely determined by the tire, tire width and PSI?
I'm NOT looking for specific wheel recommendations, just want to get educated so I can select the best wheel for what I'm specifically looking for.
So I'm beginning the search for new wheels. I ride on fairly rough chip seal roads in North Texas, on flat to rolling terrain. I'm not a weight weenie......and want to stay with AL clincher rims.
My question is....what specific characteristics or wheel components should I be looking for to give me a smoother ride over rough surfaces (chip seal roads - not gravel)?
Wider internal width??? Shorter rim height??? Straight pull versus j bend spokes? Does weight play a part in ride quality?
Or is the ride quality of a wheel largely determined by the tire, tire width and PSI?
I'm NOT looking for specific wheel recommendations, just want to get educated so I can select the best wheel for what I'm specifically looking for.
#2
"Ride quality" usually means comfort, be smoothing out bad pavement. Wheels themselves don't do that, if a wheel moved enough to act as a shock you couldn't ride it. But tires do, in a big way. Fat tires at medium inflation.
#3
Sunshine
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 18,756
Likes: 10,316
From: Des Moines, IA
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
There is something to be said for a deeper section rim in terms of ride quality as a V shaped will will typically feel stiffer than a lower profile box sectioned rim.
Something that is 23mm wide and 17.5mm internal, 26-28mm deep, and welded will be a very good rim for overall general reliable use. It will be inherently stronger than a box rim and it wont be overly heavy
Traditional jbend spokes, when dobule butted, will be reliable and light weight. They will also be easy to replace when a freak incident happens.
As for riding chipseal- just use whatever the widest tire fits in your frame.
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 2,524
Likes: 57
From: Chicago
Bikes: Marin Four Corners, 1960's Schwinn Racer in middle of restoration, mid 70s Motobecane Grand Touring, various other heaps.
What those guys said. Wheel choice only affects comfort in that it impacts available tire choice.
#5
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 40,863
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From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Agree that it's 95% tire volume and suppleness. The other 5% I am not sensitive enough to feel.
#6
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Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 2,524
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From: Chicago
Bikes: Marin Four Corners, 1960's Schwinn Racer in middle of restoration, mid 70s Motobecane Grand Touring, various other heaps.
#8
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Seattle area
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Lots of questions in [MENTION=165544]armybikerider[/MENTION]'s post.
Yes, tires are your key to comfort, grip, etc.
For 30K miles on a rear wheel, ridden pretty hard, look for a quality hub.
Durability points toward larger spoke count, 3X lacing, alloy nipples.
For 28mm (and larger) tires a slightly wider rim might be a good idea.
but [MENTION=362926]63rickert[/MENTION] nailed it. Why change from a product that worked?
Yes, tires are your key to comfort, grip, etc.
For 30K miles on a rear wheel, ridden pretty hard, look for a quality hub.
Durability points toward larger spoke count, 3X lacing, alloy nipples.
For 28mm (and larger) tires a slightly wider rim might be a good idea.
but [MENTION=362926]63rickert[/MENTION] nailed it. Why change from a product that worked?
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
#9
Thread Starter
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 326
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From: North TX
Bikes: Lynskey R330 Chris Bishop custom steel road bike
Thanks for all the replies so far.
The reason I ask is because in searching for wheels I've seen "stiffness" claims based on spoke count, rim height, rim material, hub flange height etc etc. And I took "stiffness" to describe a specific ride quality akin to harshness. Maybe the ad copy refers to lateral stiffness and not so much vertical compliance....or maybe it's just marketing hype!
I've had 2 sets of Fulcrum 5's on my Lynskey. The rear wheel from the factory original wheelset from Lynskey lasted 28,000 miles and I replaced them with my current Fulcrum 5 wheelset with 31,000 miles.
I was/am looking to see if there might be something "better"....and just to get something different. I've looked at everything from Hunt, to Pacinti, to Blackset and everything in between. I could spent a couple of hundred dollars more and drop a couple of hundred grams - which I might or might not notice......But I agree.....these wheels have served me well.....why change from a good thing?
The reason I ask is because in searching for wheels I've seen "stiffness" claims based on spoke count, rim height, rim material, hub flange height etc etc. And I took "stiffness" to describe a specific ride quality akin to harshness. Maybe the ad copy refers to lateral stiffness and not so much vertical compliance....or maybe it's just marketing hype!
I've had 2 sets of Fulcrum 5's on my Lynskey. The rear wheel from the factory original wheelset from Lynskey lasted 28,000 miles and I replaced them with my current Fulcrum 5 wheelset with 31,000 miles.
I was/am looking to see if there might be something "better"....and just to get something different. I've looked at everything from Hunt, to Pacinti, to Blackset and everything in between. I could spent a couple of hundred dollars more and drop a couple of hundred grams - which I might or might not notice......But I agree.....these wheels have served me well.....why change from a good thing?
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,939
Likes: 181
From: Newport Beach, CA
Bikes: S works Tarmac, Felt TK2 track
Thanks for all the replies so far.
The reason I ask is because in searching for wheels I've seen "stiffness" claims based on spoke count, rim height, rim material, hub flange height etc etc. And I took "stiffness" to describe a specific ride quality akin to harshness. Maybe the ad copy refers to lateral stiffness and not so much vertical compliance....or maybe it's just marketing hype!
I've had 2 sets of Fulcrum 5's on my Lynskey. The rear wheel from the factory original wheelset from Lynskey lasted 28,000 miles and I replaced them with my current Fulcrum 5 wheelset with 31,000 miles.
I was/am looking to see if there might be something "better"....and just to get something different. I've looked at everything from Hunt, to Pacinti, to Blackset and everything in between. I could spent a couple of hundred dollars more and drop a couple of hundred grams - which I might or might not notice......But I agree.....these wheels have served me well.....why change from a good thing?
The reason I ask is because in searching for wheels I've seen "stiffness" claims based on spoke count, rim height, rim material, hub flange height etc etc. And I took "stiffness" to describe a specific ride quality akin to harshness. Maybe the ad copy refers to lateral stiffness and not so much vertical compliance....or maybe it's just marketing hype!
I've had 2 sets of Fulcrum 5's on my Lynskey. The rear wheel from the factory original wheelset from Lynskey lasted 28,000 miles and I replaced them with my current Fulcrum 5 wheelset with 31,000 miles.
I was/am looking to see if there might be something "better"....and just to get something different. I've looked at everything from Hunt, to Pacinti, to Blackset and everything in between. I could spent a couple of hundred dollars more and drop a couple of hundred grams - which I might or might not notice......But I agree.....these wheels have served me well.....why change from a good thing?
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 40,863
Likes: 3,116
From: Sacramento, California, USA
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
I had a pair that came stock on my Tarmac called S-4's, which were either Racing 3 hubs and 5 rims, or the other way around. Either way, they have been great everyday wheels. Super solid, always true, not too heavy. Would recommend.
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