Importance of foot retention
#76
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If you are a recreational cyclist, being cleated in is really a matter of choice. If you are trying to maximize speed or are concerned with being fastened to the pedals for security and safety then cleats might make sense. Also, if you like the idea then there is nothing wrong with cleats. I gave up cleats years ago and now use only BMX pedals on all my bicycles. For me, I like the simplicity of simply putting my foot on the pedal. No issues for me, but as I have said, whatever you prefer is good.
#77
I’ll see your six pack and raise a keg that the admittedly rare crashes caused by slipping off a pedal are 10x worse than tipping over at <2mph because of not unclipping in time
#78
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1. Dave Stoller was on a
2. You, sir, are no Dave Stoller.
3. If you do it, post photos.
Last edited by terrymorse; 07-28-21 at 04:36 PM. Reason: corrected the bike type
#80
Over the hill

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I have seen track racers tape their feet to the pedals, but they can just pull up to a rail and take their time unwrapping them when they're done.
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#81
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?




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Fixed it for real this time. And for Terry, he was on a single speed but NOT a track bike or fixie. You can see plenty of cases in the movie where they coast.
I have seen track racers tape their feet to the pedals, but they can just pull up to a rail and take their time unwrapping them when they're done.
I have seen track racers tape their feet to the pedals, but they can just pull up to a rail and take their time unwrapping them when they're done.
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#82
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Accurate. Even more accurate...it's a single speed with a coaster brake.
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#83
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nice! they look pretty deep! what brand/model? I make my own & been using them for years. I have the same opinion, tho I am experimenting w/ other options right now. but if/when I go back to them I would consider upgrading my DIY units
#85
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I was hesitant to try cleated pedals & shoes for a long time. but when I tried them, I liked them. road bike has them. the hybrid & MTB do not. I have no plans to remove them from the road bike until winter comes
I use large MTB pedals on my road bike, w/ cleats on just 1 side. recently I took a trip & had to ride a handful of miles in closed toe sandals, using the flat side of the pedals. I had to remind myself while riding. but there were no issues. later, when I went for a legit ride, I put on my cleated shoes. I do prefer to have some foot retention such as mini clips aka 1/2 clips (no straps). just used to them I guess
experimented w/ toe clip covers this past winter & set up some legit toeclips w/ straps (not tight). didn't care for trying to wiggle my feet into the whole setup. 1/2 clips w/ waterproof, winter shoes is easy peasy
I think a lot of it is personal choice. who knows, you might enjoy trying cleated pedals/shoes for a while. but as with anything new, there are options to consider. diff. features & benefits & the expense. the whole project of trying them, might be too big of an investment in time, energy & money, to be worth it. I got started w/ used pedals & then got sucked it after that, buying other pedals & I'm on my 2nd pair of shoes, for comfort reasons
I use large MTB pedals on my road bike, w/ cleats on just 1 side. recently I took a trip & had to ride a handful of miles in closed toe sandals, using the flat side of the pedals. I had to remind myself while riding. but there were no issues. later, when I went for a legit ride, I put on my cleated shoes. I do prefer to have some foot retention such as mini clips aka 1/2 clips (no straps). just used to them I guess
experimented w/ toe clip covers this past winter & set up some legit toeclips w/ straps (not tight). didn't care for trying to wiggle my feet into the whole setup. 1/2 clips w/ waterproof, winter shoes is easy peasy
I think a lot of it is personal choice. who knows, you might enjoy trying cleated pedals/shoes for a while. but as with anything new, there are options to consider. diff. features & benefits & the expense. the whole project of trying them, might be too big of an investment in time, energy & money, to be worth it. I got started w/ used pedals & then got sucked it after that, buying other pedals & I'm on my 2nd pair of shoes, for comfort reasons
#86
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Younger folks who are well conditioned may get away with pulling up on the pedals without injury, and maybe put out more power. But that ain't me. I'm more likely to end up with hamstring spasms and knee problems.
#87
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I threw the packaging away, but, I’ve got 5 more pairs on order…Oooo…thanks for reminding me!
#88
When I first used clipless I tended to literally pull the back wheel up off the ground when standing to climb. Just poor technique. Took me awhile to get the hang of spinning while seated, and more efficient pedaling while standing.
Younger folks who are well conditioned may get away with pulling up on the pedals without injury, and maybe put out more power. But that ain't me. I'm more likely to end up with hamstring spasms and knee problems.
Younger folks who are well conditioned may get away with pulling up on the pedals without injury, and maybe put out more power. But that ain't me. I'm more likely to end up with hamstring spasms and knee problems.
#89
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For casual riding, simple platform pedals or strapless half-clips are certainly adequate. But slotted cleats and straps or clipless cleats do offer a significant a performance advantage, albeit with some learning curve required. Worth it, IMO.
#90
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I have to chuckle every time I read some authority state that no one, not even the pros actually pulls up on the pedals. If I am fit and have been riding, I regularly pull my slotted cleats off my pedals if I don't pull the straps tight. I am so used to the clicking from the transition from lifting/floating over the pedals to the aluminum cleat coming down on the pedal after 12:00 that I am no longer aware of it but it never goes away.
Fun thing I did a couple of weeks ago on my best fix gear. Went for a ride up to and along Bald Peak Road on my fix gear. Brought 4 cogs and the tools. 23 and 12 for the hills. Rode the 23 to the first high point then swapped to the 12 (42 in front.) After the moderate descent on the summit road, I decided to simply muscle the big gear over the next rise. Probably 150: vertical and not more than maybe 7% but in a 95" gear, that becomes real. I simply settled into a full body push-pull. Used inertia to carry me through 12:00/6:00. It was fun! (and completely impossible without full foot retention).
A benefit to pedals with retention is that many are narrow with excellent ground clearance. I hate having to take time out and coast for routine corners,
Fun thing I did a couple of weeks ago on my best fix gear. Went for a ride up to and along Bald Peak Road on my fix gear. Brought 4 cogs and the tools. 23 and 12 for the hills. Rode the 23 to the first high point then swapped to the 12 (42 in front.) After the moderate descent on the summit road, I decided to simply muscle the big gear over the next rise. Probably 150: vertical and not more than maybe 7% but in a 95" gear, that becomes real. I simply settled into a full body push-pull. Used inertia to carry me through 12:00/6:00. It was fun! (and completely impossible without full foot retention).
A benefit to pedals with retention is that many are narrow with excellent ground clearance. I hate having to take time out and coast for routine corners,
#92
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I see more of a safety benefit with fixed gear than freehub. Warming up a the San Diego Velodrome, a teammate accidentally unclipped while doing jumps. Since the natural reaction is to stop pedaling, the fixed gear carried him up and over his handlebar in a flash. I barely missed running over his neck and he had to hold his skinsuit together to avoid letting his dangly bits fall out of the gash he ripped in it.
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#93
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I used to suffer from knee pain, but since moving to clipless no longer have that issue. I started off with the zefal half toe clips attachments on my pedals to get used to being 'attached' to the pedals then moved to spd then spd sl, will never go back to riding flats now as I don't feel safe without clipping in!
#94
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Those who are leery about foot retention should try learning to trackstand. It seems impossible at first, but try it while leaning on a pole or something. Helps a lot if you're on a steep camber and/or a bit uphill. Also spend a bit of time above the bars on the front brake, finding your balance up there where you'd be just after an emergency stop. You can flick the back wheel around a bit like that for extra manoeuvrability at low speed. That way you'll be a lot more comfortable with your feet glued to the bike. Practice not putting a foot down.
I rode for decades on toeclip pedals, with the straps loose enough that I could just step out by lowering my heel. Like this, it's all the security without being stuck on, it feels freer then clipless. Granted, flicking the pedal around and stepping in is a tough one to master, but it's worth it.
Normal shoes plus foot retention - toeclips should be more popular, IMO.
I rode for decades on toeclip pedals, with the straps loose enough that I could just step out by lowering my heel. Like this, it's all the security without being stuck on, it feels freer then clipless. Granted, flicking the pedal around and stepping in is a tough one to master, but it's worth it.
Normal shoes plus foot retention - toeclips should be more popular, IMO.
#95
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#96
To be fair they were studying elite cyclists pedalling at a normal cadence at high power. The point was that they produced no power from their upstroke when pedalling at high power, even if their own perception was different.
I’m a big fan of clipless pedals for various reasons, but I can accept that they don’t actually increase my power output.
Riding a fixie in a huge gear might be different, but I don’t think it’s either relevant to the OP or a particularly good idea.
#97
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Studies of elite and professional cyclist pedaling patterns have been out there for at least 30 years. Many studies. And no, I am not finding them for anyone too lazy to do their own research
They do not pull up. They push hard.
The hip flexors are weak.
Anyone who gets lower back pain on long rides is probably experiencing referred pain from the psoas muscles.
They do not pull up. They push hard.
The hip flexors are weak.
Anyone who gets lower back pain on long rides is probably experiencing referred pain from the psoas muscles.
#98
Studies of elite and professional cyclist pedaling patterns have been out there for at least 30 years. Many studies. And no, I am not finding them for anyone too lazy to do their own research
They do not pull up. They push hard.
The hip flexors are weak.
Anyone who gets lower back pain on long rides is probably experiencing referred pain from the psoas muscles.
They do not pull up. They push hard.
The hip flexors are weak.
Anyone who gets lower back pain on long rides is probably experiencing referred pain from the psoas muscles.
Having read a few of those studies, it was interesting to note in one study (Dr Jeff Broker) that not a single one of the 100 elite pros he tested produced positive torque on their upstroke. In fact when pedalling at high cadence and power they were struggling to even overcome gravity acting on their upward moving leg - so they still had a net negative torque on the upstroke. This explains why your feet don't fall off flat pedals on the upstroke.
The edge case of crawling up a steep climb at very low cadence is likely different. I feel like I'm pulling up in that scenario too, but I know I can't produce anything remotely like the same torque as I can on the downstroke - glutes vs hip-flexors is no contest.
All the OP has to realise here is that moving from flat to clipless pedals will not increase his power by allowing him to pull up on his pedals. You can pedal just as smoothly on flat pedals as with clipless. But there are other reasons why clipless pedals are worth trying, which can be either be positive or negative. Foot positioning is far more precise (positive if you are fixed in the optimal position, negative if you are not). There is no risk of slipping off the pedals (if you are prone to that). They allow for a lighter, less bulky pedal (if you care). They make bunny hopping easier (if you do that). They arguably give you more control over bike handling, but I'm not convinced personally having gone back to flats for mountain biking. They give you better security when sprinting flat out.
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#100
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Exactly, thank you!
Having read a few of those studies, it was interesting to note in one study (Dr Jeff Broker) that not a single one of the 100 elite pros he tested produced positive torque on their upstroke. In fact when pedalling at high cadence and power they were struggling to even overcome gravity acting on their upward moving leg - so they still had a net negative torque on the upstroke. This explains why your feet don't fall off flat pedals on the upstroke.
The edge case of crawling up a steep climb at very low cadence is likely different. I feel like I'm pulling up in that scenario too, but I know I can't produce anything remotely like the same torque as I can on the downstroke - glutes vs hip-flexors is no contest.
All the OP has to realise here is that moving from flat to clipless pedals will not increase his power by allowing him to pull up on his pedals. You can pedal just as smoothly on flat pedals as with clipless. But there are other reasons why clipless pedals are worth trying, which can be either be positive or negative. Foot positioning is far more precise (positive if you are fixed in the optimal position, negative if you are not). There is no risk of slipping off the pedals (if you are prone to that). They allow for a lighter, less bulky pedal (if you care). They make bunny hopping easier (if you do that). They arguably give you more control over bike handling, but I'm not convinced personally having gone back to flats for mountain biking. They give you better security when sprinting flat out.
Having read a few of those studies, it was interesting to note in one study (Dr Jeff Broker) that not a single one of the 100 elite pros he tested produced positive torque on their upstroke. In fact when pedalling at high cadence and power they were struggling to even overcome gravity acting on their upward moving leg - so they still had a net negative torque on the upstroke. This explains why your feet don't fall off flat pedals on the upstroke.
The edge case of crawling up a steep climb at very low cadence is likely different. I feel like I'm pulling up in that scenario too, but I know I can't produce anything remotely like the same torque as I can on the downstroke - glutes vs hip-flexors is no contest.
All the OP has to realise here is that moving from flat to clipless pedals will not increase his power by allowing him to pull up on his pedals. You can pedal just as smoothly on flat pedals as with clipless. But there are other reasons why clipless pedals are worth trying, which can be either be positive or negative. Foot positioning is far more precise (positive if you are fixed in the optimal position, negative if you are not). There is no risk of slipping off the pedals (if you are prone to that). They allow for a lighter, less bulky pedal (if you care). They make bunny hopping easier (if you do that). They arguably give you more control over bike handling, but I'm not convinced personally having gone back to flats for mountain biking. They give you better security when sprinting flat out.
The pulling motion of the opposing leg has a more pernicious effect on the force of the driving leg.
Getting efficiency and maximum recruitment is probably more important than trying to memorize what cannot be memorized. Control of these muscles is involuntary. Doing hard sprints, very hard short climb, and higher speed cadence drills is more effective than some of the other stuff one reads online.





