Downhill Cornering Techniques
#1
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Downhill Cornering Techniques
So my bike feels comfortable/stable, but I still feel like i'm on the brakes too much when going down hilly, twisty sections.
Is the technique just like auto racing, start high and aim for the apex? Should all of the braking take place before the turn, or during the turn as well?
I know experience is the best teacher, but is there anything i can consiously do to get more comforatble with cornering speed?
Thanks
B.
Is the technique just like auto racing, start high and aim for the apex? Should all of the braking take place before the turn, or during the turn as well?
I know experience is the best teacher, but is there anything i can consiously do to get more comforatble with cornering speed?
Thanks
B.
#3
Also try to "lean" in to the turn instead of just trying to turn the wheel. Talking from personal experience leanning in to the turn but keeping pressure on the outer side of the bar, allows me to take turns faster. Also I feel like I have more control of the bike.
#4
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Just get familiar with descents. I find that on familiar decents, I can go pretty briskly on the way down without scaring myself, just because I know road conditions and the like. On unknown ones though, I think that too slow is better than too fast
#5
Meow!
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From: Riverside, California
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Cornering techniques...?
Go fast and don't crash!
Actually...
Lean the bik in the corners, don't steer, use couter steering methods as needed. Put you outside to the turn pedal down and put most of your weight there. Let your bike natrally lean. Use the whole lane, and unless you can see whats beyond the corner do not cross the center line. Watch out for the center in corners to avoid oil slicks which can make you crash. Brake before the turn and if ever in doubt, take the corner slower than you think is necessary. Finally fin how your bike decends well before the twisties... don't want shimmy in a corner...
Mandy
Go fast and don't crash!
Actually...
Lean the bik in the corners, don't steer, use couter steering methods as needed. Put you outside to the turn pedal down and put most of your weight there. Let your bike natrally lean. Use the whole lane, and unless you can see whats beyond the corner do not cross the center line. Watch out for the center in corners to avoid oil slicks which can make you crash. Brake before the turn and if ever in doubt, take the corner slower than you think is necessary. Finally fin how your bike decends well before the twisties... don't want shimmy in a corner...
Mandy
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#6
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unless you're driving an F1 car, the BEST philisophical approach to cornering is very simple:
slow in - fast out.
there is no more important rule than that until you become familiar with the course, at which point, you can start to brake shorter and shorter. most important thing to work on is rythm - stay smooth.
just do it safely.
slow in - fast out.
there is no more important rule than that until you become familiar with the course, at which point, you can start to brake shorter and shorter. most important thing to work on is rythm - stay smooth.
just do it safely.
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#7
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From: Mesa, AZ
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"The line" is the same... 
However, unless you have a private downhill, kerb-to-kerb setting up high and apexing can be very, very dangerous with cars on the road. While trail-braking into a corner can extend the time you spend at max-speed on the straights, it's very minor. Bigger gains can be had by applying the brakes HARD at the last possible moment on the straights; that means the rear tyre is skipping on the ground and hopping in the air.
Unless your career depends on it, I'd suggest improving your downhills very gradually, always in control, and push it up to the limits slowly..... Better in slow and out fast than fast in and out... dead...

However, unless you have a private downhill, kerb-to-kerb setting up high and apexing can be very, very dangerous with cars on the road. While trail-braking into a corner can extend the time you spend at max-speed on the straights, it's very minor. Bigger gains can be had by applying the brakes HARD at the last possible moment on the straights; that means the rear tyre is skipping on the ground and hopping in the air.
Unless your career depends on it, I'd suggest improving your downhills very gradually, always in control, and push it up to the limits slowly..... Better in slow and out fast than fast in and out... dead...
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 11-03-05 at 03:03 AM.
#8
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If you *can* brake during the turn, you didn't have to. To put it another way, if you are going so fast that you absolutely have to brake during the turn, then you have no choice but to give up on making the corner, set the bike upright and straight, and panic brake while you ride off the corner like the polka-dot guy did in TdF05. You only have so much traction to spend, you can either spend it on braking, or turning, but not both.
#9
My toilet-Floyd's future
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Is the technique just like auto racing, start high and aim for the apex? Should all of the braking take place before the turn, or during the turn as well?
2. Lean
3. Take the racing line
4. NEVER brake in the corner
5. Use the front brake in a straight line as you approach the corner
6. Counter-steer
And the best advice I got, from a guy who descends alpine passes on a weekly basis as a guide
7. Don't look at the road directly in front of the bike. Keep your eye on the road's 'vanishing point' as you turn the corner (the furthest part of the road you can see), this gives you much more prior warning of the lay of the road and also traffic.
#10
Mostly Harmless
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From: Sittin' on a bench at the railway station, one toke over the line.
Bikes: Giant OCR1, Giant ATX760, Raleigh Retroglide Seven
When leaning into a turn, make sure you keep your head as well as your wheels on your side of the yellow line.
#11
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1. Look ahead down the road where you want to go Keep your head up
2. slight quick countersteer in the opposite direction will set you up for the turn
3. keep you "body core' centered over the seatpost and slightly lean your upper body & outer leg into the turn until you feel more adventurous and want to experiment with additional lean.
4. brake before the turn
5. smooth slow exit speed in the beggining to get the feel of your bike
6. be loose but have a firm hold of the bars by the brake hoods later for the drops
7. in some cases moving your weight slightly to the rear by sliding your butt back a little off the saddle may help
lots of good advice in prior posts
have fun
2. slight quick countersteer in the opposite direction will set you up for the turn
3. keep you "body core' centered over the seatpost and slightly lean your upper body & outer leg into the turn until you feel more adventurous and want to experiment with additional lean.
4. brake before the turn
5. smooth slow exit speed in the beggining to get the feel of your bike
6. be loose but have a firm hold of the bars by the brake hoods later for the drops
7. in some cases moving your weight slightly to the rear by sliding your butt back a little off the saddle may help
lots of good advice in prior posts
have fun
#12
Here is the questions that always comes up. And I always forget what the experts come up with:
Lean your body with the bike
Lean the bike and keep your body more upright
I tend to do a little of both, but I usually favor leaning my whole body when going downhill. I can't get as much lean the other way. Which is the best way?
Lean your body with the bike
Lean the bike and keep your body more upright
I tend to do a little of both, but I usually favor leaning my whole body when going downhill. I can't get as much lean the other way. Which is the best way?
#13
When you take a high speed curve correctly, it feels like you are on rails. From the upright braking position the bike gets thrown or countersteered fairly precisely onto your line through the curve, you're leaned over maintaining steady pressure on the inside bar and outside crank, and checking your approach and exit to and from the apex. It might look graceful from the outside, but is really an aggressive maneuver with a like mindset. You basically attack the curve. Centrifugal force is like an addictive drug.
Last edited by pigmode; 11-03-05 at 08:59 AM.
#14
Originally Posted by pigmode
When you take a high speed curve correctly, it feels like you are on rails. From the upright braking position the bike gets thrown or countersteered fairly precisely onto your line through the curve, you're leaned over maintaining steady pressure on the inside bar and outside crank, and checking your approach and exit to and from the apex. Centrifugal force is like an addictive drug.
I tuck down, get on the drops, rest each index finger on the bottom of my STIs just in case and lean with the bike keeping weight on the outside crank. Works well I think. Never normally need to brake, but the one finger does allow you to push the bike a little further I think.
#15
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Originally Posted by EURO
And the best advice I got, from a guy who descends alpine passes on a weekly basis as a guide
7. Don't look at the road directly in front of the bike. Keep your eye on the road's 'vanishing point' as you turn the corner (the furthest part of the road you can see), this gives you much more prior warning of the lay of the road and also traffic.
7. Don't look at the road directly in front of the bike. Keep your eye on the road's 'vanishing point' as you turn the corner (the furthest part of the road you can see), this gives you much more prior warning of the lay of the road and also traffic.
Another motorcycling tip -- unless you're racing on a closed course, keep enough in reserve so that you can deal comfortably with the totally unexpected. I like to imagine that a delivery truck has just hit a bump around the next corner and dropped a full size refrigerator sideways across the lane, and I always try to ride with enough control that I could stop before I hit it.
I've never actually seen a refrigerator there, but I've seen lots of gravel, more than a little glass, and the occasional stopped car.
#16
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From: Atlanta, GA
The biggest thing i am scared of is, finding that their is sand or dirt on the road at the bottom of the curve. Which will wipe you out unless you maintain a relatively straight line thru it. Any suggestions on that???
#17
Originally Posted by EURO
1. Keep your body weight low
2. Lean
3. Take the racing line
4. NEVER brake in the corner
5. Use the front brake in a straight line as you approach the corner
6. Counter-steer
2. Lean
3. Take the racing line
4. NEVER brake in the corner
5. Use the front brake in a straight line as you approach the corner
6. Counter-steer
#18
logging miles...
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Boulder, CO
Bikes: 2005 Felt F60
This is more or less redundant, but I thought I'd list the 3 simple things I try think of *while* descending... remembering 7-10 things seems a bit much.
1) Brake to a comfortable speed BEFORE the curve, on the straights. Don't brake in the curve - this is will create shimmy that can get out of control.
2) Place your weight on the outside pedal, which is (of course) down. This allows you to hold a more aggressive lean.
3) Counter-steer to choose and fine tune your line -- this is much more effective than trying to throw your body and/or bike around through trying to lean. Counter steer deliberately, and you'll find the lean and line far more quickly and accurately.
All the other advice is, of course, very good. But these are the 3 vital things that I have in my mind as I descend with speed.
If there had to be a 4th:
4) Look at where you want to go, not at what you want to avoid. This is related to the keep your eyes down the road lesson mentioned earlier, and a lesson that I learned from kayaking. It works...
my $.02
1) Brake to a comfortable speed BEFORE the curve, on the straights. Don't brake in the curve - this is will create shimmy that can get out of control.
2) Place your weight on the outside pedal, which is (of course) down. This allows you to hold a more aggressive lean.
3) Counter-steer to choose and fine tune your line -- this is much more effective than trying to throw your body and/or bike around through trying to lean. Counter steer deliberately, and you'll find the lean and line far more quickly and accurately.
All the other advice is, of course, very good. But these are the 3 vital things that I have in my mind as I descend with speed.
If there had to be a 4th:
4) Look at where you want to go, not at what you want to avoid. This is related to the keep your eyes down the road lesson mentioned earlier, and a lesson that I learned from kayaking. It works...
my $.02
#19
Originally Posted by EURO
And the best advice I got, from a guy who descends alpine passes on a weekly basis as a guide
7. Don't look at the road directly in front of the bike. Keep your eye on the road's 'vanishing point' as you turn the corner (the furthest part of the road you can see), this gives you much more prior warning of the lay of the road and also traffic.
7. Don't look at the road directly in front of the bike. Keep your eye on the road's 'vanishing point' as you turn the corner (the furthest part of the road you can see), this gives you much more prior warning of the lay of the road and also traffic.
But I think the best advice is from DannoXYZ, who said to work on improving your skills slowly over time. Descending is one area where you should not aim for rapid improvement, because of the danger involved. I've been at it for just over a year and I'm definitely getting better with continued exposure, but on unfamiliar roads or very steep descents I still get my doors blown off by guys (and girls!) who are more skilled and have more confidence than I do. Tempting to try to keep up, but I guess my sense of self-preservation outranks my sense of competition.
#20
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Originally Posted by helmets save
The biggest thing i am scared of is, finding that their is sand or dirt on the road at the bottom of the curve. Which will wipe you out unless you maintain a relatively straight line thru it. Any suggestions on that???
#21
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Originally Posted by jbhowat
Lean your body with the bike
Lean the bike and keep your body more upright
Which is the best way?
Lean the bike and keep your body more upright
Which is the best way?
There's an exception -- don't lean your body too far inside the curve if there is an obstacle there, such as a telephone pole. I nailed a support pole once pretty hard, *running* on a suspended indoor track. I didn't realize that you also lean inward when you're turning on foot. Surprised the hell out of me.
#22
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From: Brighton, MA
Bikes: Cannondale '04 R600
I'd second most (if not all) of what's been mentioned previously. About the only bit of advice I can add is don't strangle-hold the handlebars - you want to guide the bike, not steer it.
It's a zen thing.
It's a zen thing.
#23
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From: Northern California
Originally Posted by helmets save
The biggest thing i am scared of is, finding that their is sand or dirt on the road at the bottom of the curve. Which will wipe you out unless you maintain a relatively straight line thru it. Any suggestions on that???
#24
Buddha Khan
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I don't understand the idea of trying to descend the fastest on public roads. What do you have to gain if you're not in a race? And even in races, the course might be cleaned of debris that are on public roads that might lead to your demise...and of course road races are typically closed courses, so even if you fall, you are not likely to get run over by some driver that might be tailing you too closely.
#25
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From: Norman, Oklahoma
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Originally Posted by lws
I've been told to do neither, rather, lean your body into the turn but keep the bike more upright. The theory being that the tires have more traction when they're as vertical as possible.
That just plain doesn't work. Merely leaning your body doesn't turn the bike, otherwise I wouldn't be able to do a rolling mount in a straight line. Either the bike has to lean, "curving" the surface of the wheel and causing the bike to turn, or the wheel has to turn.
They might have more traction when vertical, but they have no turning ability.
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