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Shimano Triple

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Shimano Triple

Old 11-10-02, 01:53 PM
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Shimano Triple

I'm currently running a Shimano D/A drivetrain (used 2001 Trek, I'm not rich). The Texas hill country where I live is blessed with some STEEP ascents, so I'm thinking of switching to a triple to save my knees. What are parts I'm looking at to accomplish this, i.e. shifter, front derailleur, chain, crankset, etc? I'd like to switch from a 12-24, to an 11-21 cogset also. My thinking is that the triple crank with an 11-21 cog gives the best range of shifting in the middle, without sacrificing too much climbing ability.
I was also thinking about a Campy 10 speed, but I have to confess I have no experience with a Campy set-up. I'm pretty much a set it and forget it type, so the stories (true or false) about Campy high-maintenance woes scare me somewhat.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 11-10-02, 02:11 PM
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I asked my LBS about that very thing a month or so ago, and they told me all the things you mentioned, as well as a new bottom bracket - about $300 worth of equipment when it was all over. I ended up opting for replacing my 8 speed 12-26 with a 13-30 spent about $200 instead (had to replace rear derailleur with long cage model) and have yet to have to push the machine up a hill! I'll admit, Dallas doesn't have quite the hills SA does, but there definitely are some, especially south of town..

Now if I can get rid of a few pounds (me, not the bike), it should be even easier !
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Old 11-10-02, 02:50 PM
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Originally posted by Poppaspoke
I'm currently running a Shimano D/A drivetrain (used 2001 Trek, I'm not rich). The Texas hill country where I live is blessed with some STEEP ascents, so I'm thinking of switching to a triple to save my knees. What are parts I'm looking at to accomplish this, i.e. shifter, front derailleur, chain, crankset, etc? I'd like to switch from a 12-24, to an 11-21 cogset also. My thinking is that the triple crank with an 11-21 cog gives the best range of shifting in the middle, without sacrificing too much climbing ability.
I was also thinking about a Campy 10 speed, but I have to confess I have no experience with a Campy set-up. I'm pretty much a set it and forget it type, so the stories (true or false) about Campy high-maintenance woes scare me somewhat.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
The campy hi maintenance stuff is BS,but 10 speeds with 4.12 cog spacing will be a bit more touchy than 9 speed with 4.43 or 4.55 spacing. Campy triples are a bit less touchhy than shmiano triples to setup and heep working. Neither one is really an issue unless you are tied to a shop for minor adjustments.Since you got DA, you need shifters,crank,BB,FD. New chain or RD not absolutes. I don't see a 12/24 in the shimano lineup,Maybe you mean 12/23 or 12/25. If you think you need the 11/21 then spend trhe money and switch to a triple. The alternatives involve wider jumps between cogs.
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Old 11-10-02, 02:52 PM
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I'm running either campy 12 speed friction type
or campy 8speed (index) in Northern dallas Area
(and up toward McKinney Red RIver valley for hills)
and with 39x26 (or 28) don't feel the need for triple
Don't know about converting but do a search on triples
there has been alot of discussion.
FWIW Campy isn't all that high maintence, no more so
than shimano.

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Old 11-10-02, 03:03 PM
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Originally posted by Beth
I ended up opting for replacing my 8 speed 12-26 with a 13-30 spent about $200 instead (had to replace rear derailleur with long cage model)
Any of the 8 speed shimano road RD other than DA were speced for 28 large cog and will shift a 30 and sometimes more. the DA 8 speed was speced for 26 large cog and might not shift a 30. Cage length does not determine ability to shift large cog.It's in the paralleogram. Current 9 speed shimano road 9 speed RD are speced for 27 large cog whether long or short cage, and either will shift a 30. Both short and long cage current shimano mtb RD are speced for the same 34 large cog.
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Old 11-10-02, 07:42 PM
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i had the same prob. age making the hills steeper & longer( also limeted well stretched budget) i had a 13-21 freewheel to a 52-42 chainwheel set. a 39 chainwheel nz$70 ,not the answer. my solution was a new freewheel cluster 14-28 & a new chain nz$50. it made a massive differance, i now ride some of my old curcuits id been avoiding for a while with comparative ease
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Old 11-10-02, 11:51 PM
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I am running a DA triple and do a lot of hills. The big ones in this area run up to 12%, with most in the 5 to 8% range. The DA chain rings are 53/39/30 and my rear is 11/23.

Only once have I wished for a 12/25 and that was on a sustained 18% climb in the Sierras. The 53/39 combination keeps me riding in the gears I was used to when I had a double. The 30 (chainring) is a great bailout and gives me 3 lower gears than my double did.

My 50 year old knees appreciate this set up.
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Old 11-11-02, 12:22 AM
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Another alternative, less expensive, that works very well for me in the big hills here in Eastern Washington is to replace your cassette and rear der with a Shimano MTB cassette (12-32) and XT derailluer. It works perfectly with my Dura-Ace everything else and, if I want, it can be switched back to the Dura-Ace der and cassette easily. The only downside is that the gear ratios are a little wide in the three large cogs, but when you need a bail-out and aren't willing to sacrifice your knees, it's perfect.
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