I'm about 165-170 lb. also, 5' 10", 38" inseam, I ride with 170 mm crankarms, I sit more in saddle spinning than mashing the pedals out-of-saddle.
I can ride 175 mm crankarms on a MTB, cause more knee sores after a long ride.
At my weight, I find the El-OS still a bit harsh on the ride, regardless of saddle; power transfer is great, but rides a bit like an aluminum frame. I rode it mostly for racing and crits., which I rarely do nowadays.

Does your toe overlap occur at speed or just low speed?
Most of time If I know I'm riding a short wheelbase bike that may cause top overlap, I strategically plan the tight turns so my cranks can avoid the overlap, it takes practice, but it doesn't cost as much as a new frame.

Finally a picture! Beautiful bike, it looks great.

Thanks!
Haven’t upgraded anything other than the wheels but getting the itch. No idea what though yet.

Wicked nice bike. Quite the flourish there at the rear drops.

Thanks. The builder was not making his own dropouts at the time. He is now, so I think they are a bit more "arty." On the left chainstay there is a LOVE Statue decal. The only problem with riding it is taking it down off the wall and out of the frame and the re-framing and re-hanging it after every ride.

very minimal over lap, only comes into play in city if you make a hard turn and pedal. So I guess I can deal with it. Just been thinking titanium and most likely will get a frame that has no toe overlap . More of a touring type bike ..Thanks again all for info..

It started out as a 2003 Airborne Valkyrie Ti (I think a 56) with a combination of Ultegra & XT with a Triple upfront and a custom 8 speed 13-30 cassette out back.
(pictured with mods from 2012 including the stem and bar, plus 2012 Ultegra SPDs)

in 2014 I upgraded it to full Ultegra 6800, a Wound Up Front Fork with disc, Chris King Headset & Chris King/Mavic wheels.

Like the prior poster I also have minimal overlap when the wheel is at extreme turn and cranks are in just the right position. Nothing I have to worry about during normal riding.

Sure I'd like to do a rear disc and internal cable routing, but not so much that I'm willing to pay $1000-$2000 for the mods.

Very nice looking Airborne.
Majority of braking force is applicable from the front wheel anyway, to attempt disc brake caliper for the rear of that frame would not be ideal, unless there is enough rear frame clearance for wider rear tire/wheel to allow it become a gravel bike.

Agreed. I think I need to work on my shoes cleat spacing a bit. I occasionally have my right heel (and only my right heal) rub the chain stay. Just one of those annoying things I need to get sorted...again.

Beautiful bike.

New bar tape, handlebars (didn't like the shape of the old ones), wheels, and tyres.
I also put on a slightly (10mm) shorter stem, amazing what a difference a small change can make.

Here’s my Veritas that I bought used for $675 three years ago: The frame has a 54.5 top tube. I’m nearly 6’ tall and really built it up this way just to try to make it fit me. My thought at the time was - if it works, great - if not, oh well. Turns out I like it! It climbs great, it has the magic titanium ride and the compact frame is plenty stiff. Due to the extreme seatpost exposure and running a carbon 27.2 seatpost sleeved ina 30.0 frame I have been plagued by intermittent seatpost creaking. I’m on my 3rd seatpost shim going from a 30.0/27.2 to a 30.1/27.2 (short aluminum) to a 30.2/27.2 U.S.E. branded Delrin plastic on that is a nice snug fit. It seems like my post will finally quiet down. My Hope silver seatpost collar complements the Chris King headset. I broke 2 of the seat collar bolts - the Hope uses an oversized, hollow aluminum button head, fine thread M6 bolt.

Sometimes new B/B & crankset can throw off the pedal placement, using B/B spacers to move the spindle towards direction that you have chainstay rub can remedy that effect.

Thanks buddy. Wheels are different now, running Ksyrium Pro USTs.

My Tres Amigos:

Seen good press about T-Lab, but does anyone here have one? (yes also searching the forum as a whole...)

Dude ,
I got one too.
Just built it. Crazy fast bike but mine has canti's
Needs decals

Same coffin-shaped downtube - but what about the rest? Top tube cable routing, rear brake mounts... what's your head tube badge say? I think the Colnago titaniums of the same period were the same frame builder, did they supply others?

I do love it. Very unique, it always gets noticed at coffee stops.

The BB is stamped bianchi as is head tube decals removed by previous owner. Needs good polish and new decals to complete. I threw 35's on it and ride trails thing just goes.
All dura ace 9 speed.

Turning a ti megatube into a gravel bike? Now *that* is badass!

It is was a dream of mine.
It is has road race bike geometry with bigger tires. Stiff fast smoove..likw perfect.
I plan to toss on uber light wheels in spr ing.

Here is the best news...
Paid $300. For frame. And fork.

My Litespeed built 1996 Eddy Merckx EX Titanium.

looks like the new bar also have shorter reach, so in total you have about 20-30mm shorter reach, pretty big change

That's very possible, I never considered that when changing the bars; I still have them in the shed and will check them against each other the next time I'm out there.

I'm not getting any younger; feeling less stretched out is no harm!

Seven Axiom not finished.