Component Upgrade
#1
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From: MABRA
Bikes: Tarmac Pro, Giant TCX
Component Upgrade
Thinking about upgrading from Shimano 105. Is it worth going to Ultegra or should I save up for Dura Ace? I plan on uprgading one or two components at a time. Which first?
Riding a Tarmac Pro frame set with ALX300 wheels.
Riding a Tarmac Pro frame set with ALX300 wheels.
#3
Have bike. Will travel.
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From: -=Toronto=-
Bikes: '06 Orbea Orca, '03 Rocky Mountain Vertex 70, '05 Surly Steamroller, '06 Fetish Fixation
Unless you want the bling factor, Ultegra SL with function just as well as DA.
+100
Originally Posted by barba
I would deal with the wheels long before mucking about with the group.
#4
Should Be More Popular




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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
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What's wrong with the current setup? Keep it. If you must upgrade you should get wheels like barba said.
#6
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#8
Should Be More Popular




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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Probably not much unless you want to spend a lot...those seem like decent wheels. How about some new rubber? Or just appreciate what you have and ride it?
#9
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#10
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#11
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I don't consider myself a weight weenie. I am not ready to part with $100's just to save some grams. Quality, performance then of course reducing the wieght is always nice. I find the 105 crank to flex while climbing out of the saddle. I am not a racer, just a recreational/fitness rider, I thought upgrading to a Ultegra or DA double would help. Any ideas?
#12
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From: Killadelphia
Bikes: 2007 Fuji Roubaix LTD, 2005 Bianchi Pista
Yeah, seriously, once 105 became 10-speed, it took a great leap in quality, and unless you have $$$ to burn or are racing, you really don't need anything more. New wheels would be really nice (good hubs are key) and a triple-to-double swap would be a nice upgrade, but otherwise ride it and love it. As far as cranks go, I know people get down on them, but my FSA Team Issue crank has been fine for me (6'1", 195-205 lbs) in terms of flex. I can't speak to Ultegra and DA vs 105, though.
#13
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Help what? What is the problem you are trying to solve? Stiffer crank? Replace the crank and leave the rest alone.
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"Let us hope our weapons are never needed --but do not forget what the common people knew when they demanded the Bill of Rights: An armed citizenry is the first defense, the best defense, and the final defense against tyranny. If guns are outlawed, only the government will have guns. Only the police, the secret police, the military, the hired servants of our rulers. Only the government -- and a few outlaws. I intend to be among the outlaws" - Edward Abbey
#15
My idea of fun

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From: Gainesville, FL
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I don't consider myself a weight weenie. I am not ready to part with $100's just to save some grams. Quality, performance then of course reducing the wieght is always nice. I find the 105 crank to flex while climbing out of the saddle. I am not a racer, just a recreational/fitness rider, I thought upgrading to a Ultegra or DA double would help. Any ideas?
And, just for giggles sake, what wheels are you running?
#16
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From: Killadelphia
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#17
I doubt that the crank is flexing. I run a three-year old Ultegra crank (probably not as good as newer 105) and can't tell you what flex even feels like.
I doubt that the money spent on Ultegra or D-A will yield significantly better performance. It'll just be a tad lighter.
Run the components until they are worn, then consider replacing them with nicer gear. For the cranks, wait 'til the chainrings are worn -- say about 25,000 miles, depending on your use and conditions.
As others have noted, wheel upgrades will give more performance boost than the other items.
I doubt that the money spent on Ultegra or D-A will yield significantly better performance. It'll just be a tad lighter.
Run the components until they are worn, then consider replacing them with nicer gear. For the cranks, wait 'til the chainrings are worn -- say about 25,000 miles, depending on your use and conditions.
As others have noted, wheel upgrades will give more performance boost than the other items.
#18
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I am running an older 9 speed Shimano 105 triple. The components came off a Tirreno Razza 3.0 (do not buy, frame is a piece of ****). In the late summer I replaced the frame with a Specialized Tarmac Pro. The bike setup is as follows:
Tarmac Pro Frame set 58cm
Toupe team saddle (enroute today)
Shimano 105 (9 speed) triple
Ulterga FD (replaced when I upgraded the frame due to clamp dia)
105 RD
105 brifters
Forte Brakes (performance brand)
ALX300 wheels
Tarmac Pro Frame set 58cm
Toupe team saddle (enroute today)
Shimano 105 (9 speed) triple
Ulterga FD (replaced when I upgraded the frame due to clamp dia)
105 RD
105 brifters
Forte Brakes (performance brand)
ALX300 wheels
#19
If you switch from an older 105 triple to a newer Ultegra double, that may be a noticeable upgrade -- better shifting, lighter, and yes stiffer. Be aware that you will also benefit from a new rear derailleur -- if your was from a triple, you will want one specifically designed for a double -- i.e., a "short cage" derailleur. Not absolutely necessary, but advisable. Get a new one, and it will be ten-speed compatible, as will your new crankset. Then, when your brifters die, you can replace those with ten-speed (and swap out your chain and cassette) and you'll have a "modern" bike!
Better wheels will help, too.
Better wheels will help, too.
#21
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I want to upgrade correctly, but not waste money doing it! The goal is not to replace the next components until they wear out. I bought the new frame set instead of the bike so I could upgrade slowly. Of course I realize it always costs more money that way.
#22
pan y agua

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2) the amount that any crank on the market currently flexes will not affect the performance of the bike. ( ask waterrockets to give you all the physics, but the core principle is conservation of energy.)
If it shifts well, doesn't throw the chain, and doesn't rub the FD when you hammer out of the saddle, it doesn't need to be any stiffer than it is.
If you really want to change something, you might consider putting on an Ultegra compact crank in place of your triple. You'll savve a little weight and get a little better shifting.
Of course whether the compact or your triple best meet your needs depends on your terrian and your fitness.
#23
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1)It's not the crank you see flexing. It's the frame.
2) the amount that any crank on the market currently flexes will not affect the performance of the bike. ( ask waterrockets to give you all the physics, but the core principle is conservation of energy.)
If it shifts well, doesn't throw the chain, and doesn't rub the FD when you hammer out of the saddle, it doesn't need to be any stiffer than it is.
If you really want to change something, you might consider putting on an Ultegra compact crank in place of your triple. You'll savve a little weight and get a little better shifting.
Of course whether the compact or your triple best meet your needs depends on your terrian and your fitness.
2) the amount that any crank on the market currently flexes will not affect the performance of the bike. ( ask waterrockets to give you all the physics, but the core principle is conservation of energy.)
If it shifts well, doesn't throw the chain, and doesn't rub the FD when you hammer out of the saddle, it doesn't need to be any stiffer than it is.
If you really want to change something, you might consider putting on an Ultegra compact crank in place of your triple. You'll savve a little weight and get a little better shifting.
Of course whether the compact or your triple best meet your needs depends on your terrian and your fitness.
#24
Batüwü Creakcreak
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: The illadelph
I'm with the 'change the wheels first' school of thought. You'd be surprised at how much your frame and wheels flex.
I love my 10 speed 105 stuff. It shifts really well and I have absolutely no complaints. I'm going to run this group down to the ground before I even think of upgrading. The brifters act funny sometimes when I go to shift and they don't engage, but I think that's because of the angle my brakes are at. I try again in a second and it works.
I'm referring to the front brifter, where I can't shift to my small ring because the black paddle just goes all the way over to its rightmost position without shifting almost like it didn't engage, and then when I try again it goes over like nothing was ever wrong. I'm accounting it to user error due to brake lever position. Any input?
I love my 10 speed 105 stuff. It shifts really well and I have absolutely no complaints. I'm going to run this group down to the ground before I even think of upgrading. The brifters act funny sometimes when I go to shift and they don't engage, but I think that's because of the angle my brakes are at. I try again in a second and it works.
I'm referring to the front brifter, where I can't shift to my small ring because the black paddle just goes all the way over to its rightmost position without shifting almost like it didn't engage, and then when I try again it goes over like nothing was ever wrong. I'm accounting it to user error due to brake lever position. Any input?
#25
Batüwü Creakcreak
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From: The illadelph
Thanks, right now I am in PA hills, some climbs but nothing to serious. I am being transfered to southern AL in the early summer. I used the small ring years ago, but haven't needed it lately. I have been doing some reading about compact cranks, they seem to be a good option. Are there any cons?




