I need some help finding the rattle on my bike, it does it really bad on tar and chip roads or other rough pavement, but makes no noise on blacktop. Its a metal on metal sort of clank sound that seems to be coming from the rear of the bike. I've checked all the bolts and everything seems to be tight. Wheel bearings are good and lubed.

One thing I noticed is that the Dura Ace cassette has some play on the spline on the wheel. I can move the gears up and down, I took the cassette off and made sure its on there correctly and retightened it, but the gears still have a bit of slop on them. This is on a set of Mavic ksyrium's, I pulled the rear wheel off another bike at our house with ksyrium's on it and the gears move up and down on that one too, is this normal for these wheels with a Dura Ace cassette?

I've run out of ideas on what to look for, any ideas on what to check next?

Pump hitting the frame-

Cable/housing hitting the frame.

Ksyrium wheels need a 0.5mm spacer (provided by Mavic with new wheels) in addition to the Shimano cassette spacer.

When you say up/down, do you mean laterally? If so, did you install the low spacer? (item# 12 on the diagram)

I use CO2s so no pump to make noise. I'll have to check the cables next time its doing it and see if that will help.

I do have the the low spacer. It seems that there is just a bit of slop over the hub so that it can rock back and forth. It's not an issue with not having the cassette tightened enough but more the cassette is too big for the hub? Here's my attempt to explain how it moves.

Trim that excess cable!

Multitool or CO2 in saddle bag bonking against seatpost? Took me a while to figure that out on my bike.

no seatbag, everything is kept in my jersey pockets

does it make a difference whether or not you're pedalling?

if you're rocking a triple maybe it's chain slap? Does it do it in the big/big combo?
edit: short cage der. usually means no triple, still, could be slap

Brifter cables slapping into each other in front of the bike? Brifter return springs not strong enough to keep the levers at "home" on bumps? Headset not adjusted properly? Wheel bearings slightly worn? Presta valve rattling against rim? The little screw on presta valve retention widget not tight against rim? Bottle cage loose? Marbles in skull?

Just some ideas...

Did you take your bike to the shop recently and -maybe- upset your trusty wrench?

Check your handlebars for ball bearings.

Hilarious prank if it's not your bike.

The torque specs are actually pretty high for the lockring. Make sure you've got it tight enough.

forgot about that one. It'll drive you nuts -- so I never use 'em

Some good ideas I'll have to check there, this bike was just built, its only got 400mi on frame, components, a few thousand on the wheels. The guy who put it together is a real good mechanic, he wouldn't drop anything into the frame or bars.

It will do it whether I'm pedaling or not and it doesn't seem to matter what gear combo I'm using

Headset is tight
wheel bearings have ~1000mi on them and were checked and lubed 100mi ago.
I don't use the presta valve nut thingy
bottle cages are tight and not rattling, grabbed them while riding and it didn't make a difference

Is there a good way to check for chain slap?

worn out mavic free hubs will wobble you need to replace the free hub.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...4&postcount=16

Have you checked the valve on rim click?

How is the freehub body itself? Take off the cassette and see if there is play in the freehub body (splined part the cassette sits on). Some have a weird nylon bearing on the replaceable body that obviously wears. I've become not such a Mavic groupie since my 5 year old (~2k miles) Mavic Cosmos developed play in the freehub body. Come to find out no parts are available for them. 5 years and a piece of trash. Come on. I thought forced obsolescence was purely American. Guess the French are on board too. Makes me think they cut some real corners to get a light wheelset.

brake cable-on-toptube?

Shifter Rattle. Not much you can do about it

It was raining this morning and my dad was heading to the lbs anyway, so I had him bring it in, they added another spacer behind the cassette and had to reglue the piece that clamps down on top of the steerer so it can be tightened more. I guess I'll find out tomorrow hopefully if that solved the problems.

there is a splined nut inside of the hub which tightens the freehub to the hub. this nut has possibly become loose and is floping around inside the hub. this will also cause wobble in the wheel as the freehub is not tight to the hub itself. you enter in from non drive side to access and tighten this nut. i know this because i had exactly the same problem and it was the nut that holds freehub making all the noise.

I recently had a buzzing that ended up being the valve on the innertube rattling against the rim. I deflated it, took it out, put it back in, and it didn't rattle again. Weird one, I had not heard of that before.

My Kysriums rattle... it's the quick release handle on my bike that does it.

The bike seems to be very quiet now and the only rattle is very slight and from my Kysriums also, its quiet enough now that I'm happy with it

You know is funny how you see the same exact problem in anohter bike,I've being there and the problem was the skewers,I rotated them and tied back again and zero problem,also the clamp that closes the skewer on Kysiriums get's loose and tent to make a ratling noise as well.I had to taped it around to stop the noise.

Yes, I discovered this as the source of the dinging sound on two bikes.