Busted Cable
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
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Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
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Years ago somebody told me, or I read someplace, that it's a good idea to put a little grease on cable ends when you preplace them. I'm a little embarassed to say, but I never really understood why. I just do it anyway. On the other hand, I've never had a cable fray inside the shifter.
When my wife and I go on vacation I always pack along a spare shift and brake cable, but that's because we ride a tandem and, if we should break one, nobody's likely to have tandem cables in stock
When my wife and I go on vacation I always pack along a spare shift and brake cable, but that's because we ride a tandem and, if we should break one, nobody's likely to have tandem cables in stock
#27
Freddin' it
My 105 RD cable broke at 3500 miles, and then again after another 4500 miles. So I now replace it every 3000 miles. Sometimes at 3000 miles one or two strands are already broken. R&R and adjustment is maybe 15 minutes, tops. Head mechanics at two LBSs said it's common with Shimano 10 speeds.
If 10 Wheels has 27,000 miles on the original RD cable (which is what his post implies), I'd sure like to know what shifter he's using. Betcha it's not Shimano 10-speed.
If 10 Wheels has 27,000 miles on the original RD cable (which is what his post implies), I'd sure like to know what shifter he's using. Betcha it's not Shimano 10-speed.
#28
Medicinal Cyclist
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Bingo. I'm running a 105 10sp.
I bet 10 Wheels gets all those miles out of a cable in part because he rides on mostly flat ground, and thus uses his shifers a lot less than I do. Probably chugs along in the 52-12 all day long.
I did bust my FD shifer (triple) by overtensioning the cable last year. Learned my lesson and replaced it with a new 105 double-only shifter.
I bet 10 Wheels gets all those miles out of a cable in part because he rides on mostly flat ground, and thus uses his shifers a lot less than I do. Probably chugs along in the 52-12 all day long.
I did bust my FD shifer (triple) by overtensioning the cable last year. Learned my lesson and replaced it with a new 105 double-only shifter.
#29
Banned.
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Upland Ca
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If you add in my wife's bikes, that's another 2000-3500 a year for the last 12 years. Her newest bike is 10 speed Ultegra but no problems with cables during the 10,336.6 miles she's put on it in the last 3 years.
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#31
ah.... sure.
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Whidbey Island WA
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Same cable and housing 10 Wheels? If that is the case... Does it still shift like new? Even if I never broke a cable in my lifetime... The housings wear out. Shifting goes downhill along with it.
If it's all still working like new... You must live in a land of zero rain and grit. Maybe you do though.
If it's all still working like new... You must live in a land of zero rain and grit. Maybe you do though.
#32
Has coddling tendencies.
I've never had a broken rear D cable break, and since I don't carry a small screwdriver with me, I've always thought the e-plan is:
With your bike upside down, manually shift the rear D into one of the two largest gears, then stop the crank and release the tension on the rear D so it stays there, then tie a knot in the cable above the first frame cable guide/barrel adjuster (if you have one), making sure the knot is as close to the cable guide as possible. Then turn the crank so the rear D settles (hopefully no further than a middle gear), then use the rear barrel adjuster to align the D into your choice of gear. Probably would help to turn the rear barrel adjuster all the way in before beginning the process so you have maximum adjustment available.
That's the theory. I hope I don't ever have to attempt it.
With your bike upside down, manually shift the rear D into one of the two largest gears, then stop the crank and release the tension on the rear D so it stays there, then tie a knot in the cable above the first frame cable guide/barrel adjuster (if you have one), making sure the knot is as close to the cable guide as possible. Then turn the crank so the rear D settles (hopefully no further than a middle gear), then use the rear barrel adjuster to align the D into your choice of gear. Probably would help to turn the rear barrel adjuster all the way in before beginning the process so you have maximum adjustment available.
That's the theory. I hope I don't ever have to attempt it.
#33
With Shimano shifters, I find they fray right as they exit the shifter body, I usually have to replace my shifter cables a couple of times a season, they certainly don't last a full season without fraying
#34
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I've never had this happen to me. I guess I've never had one single bike long enough. Every time I get a new bike I replace the cables and do a full tune up. Then up till now I have sold my bike and bought a new one before needing to replace them again.
Total bummer to have it go out just when your getting ready for a long ride.
Total bummer to have it go out just when your getting ready for a long ride.
#35
Freddin' it
Yeah, but it's even worse to have it break in the middle of a ride, with 25 miles of hills and wind between you and home, and all you have is that 11-tooth rear to mash. BTDT - lesson learned. I change the rear cable every 3000 miles as insurance, if nothing else.
#36
Portland Fred
It happens, but it's not common. I've had one cable snap at the shifter -- thankfully the day before a climbing ride. I change cables every year.
#37
I had a cable break lsat year, it had probably 3,500 miles on it, but it was a cheap stock fuji cable. I am going to replace all my cables in a few weeks in time for racing season and then once again halfway through the year. LBS sells high quality shimano stuff pretty cheap, so its no big deal to change them out.
#38
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I had three RD cables break over the course of a year or so with DA7800 levers. Two of the times I was on rides with lots of hills, including once on Skyline Drive. I had to have the front shift lever replaced under warranty. Cable hasn't broken since then.
On the hilly ride I did the trick where I pulled the cable tight by hand so the derailleur was on a middle cog in the back, and then tied the cable down to my bottle cages. Then I just had to tweak the RD adjustment with the cable adjuster on the derailleur. That was a lot easier than messing with the limit screws.
On the hilly ride I did the trick where I pulled the cable tight by hand so the derailleur was on a middle cog in the back, and then tied the cable down to my bottle cages. Then I just had to tweak the RD adjustment with the cable adjuster on the derailleur. That was a lot easier than messing with the limit screws.
#39
Full Member
I've never had a broken rear D cable break, and since I don't carry a small screwdriver with me, I've always thought the e-plan is:
With your bike upside down, manually shift the rear D into one of the two largest gears, then stop the crank and release the tension on the rear D so it stays there, then tie a knot in the cable above the first frame cable guide/barrel adjuster (if you have one), making sure the knot is as close to the cable guide as possible. Then turn the crank so the rear D settles (hopefully no further than a middle gear), then use the rear barrel adjuster to align the D into your choice of gear. Probably would help to turn the rear barrel adjuster all the way in before beginning the process so you have maximum adjustment available.
That's the theory. I hope I don't ever have to attempt it.
With your bike upside down, manually shift the rear D into one of the two largest gears, then stop the crank and release the tension on the rear D so it stays there, then tie a knot in the cable above the first frame cable guide/barrel adjuster (if you have one), making sure the knot is as close to the cable guide as possible. Then turn the crank so the rear D settles (hopefully no further than a middle gear), then use the rear barrel adjuster to align the D into your choice of gear. Probably would help to turn the rear barrel adjuster all the way in before beginning the process so you have maximum adjustment available.
That's the theory. I hope I don't ever have to attempt it.
As I mentioned here: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?617483-105-shifter-cable-keeps-breaking
I have broken my 105 RD cable twice in the last 6 months or so.
you need to tie the cable around something. I don't believe that by using the technique you suggest, you will get the knot in the right position.
What I did both times, was to manually position the RD on a middle cog, then pull as tight as i can on the wire, and then tie it around the barrel nut and the cable guide on the bike. In both cases, the RD actually ended up back on the smallest cog, but I could get home.
I haven't tried the bottle holder as suggested above, but it seems like that might work better.