Yes, Super Fred, I have replaced my cassette--illustrating that it is simple if I can do it.

But I don't swap from one size to another.

bonus points if you line up all of the spacers so the "10S" (NOT 105) logos line up or cascade evenly.

I wish the park socket did that. I don't know why it doesn't. Just forced me to screw around with a huge socket and 1/2 to 3/8 conversion.

Fail

I do.

The appropriate torque for tightening the lockring is F'n tight.

When it starts to sort of click or stutter, you're done. Essentially it has its own built in torque measurement

my buddy is allowing me to use his wheels for the upcoming season and I'll be attaching my cassette...the above info is good to know!

^Careful, I've overdone it before. I still can't get the damn thing off. I think I need a bench vice for extra leverage. I broke a chain whip trying to remove it.

What about switching out a freehub?

Is that all it takes to move wheels from Shimano to Campagnolo and vice versa?

https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

"Installing Cassette Cogs
Cassette freehub bodies and cassettes are often designed so the cogs will fit in only one orientation. This permits manufacturer to align "shifting ramps" to specification.

a. Inspect splines of freehub body. Look for a wide space between splines. Inspect the internal splines of cogs. Look for a wide spline to mate with wide space in freehub body. Align splines and engage all cogs.

b. Install spacers in same orientation as when removed.

c. Grease threads of lockring and thread lockring into freehub.

d. Install cassette lockring tool and install quick release skewer. Thread skewer nut on outside of lockring tool.

e. Snug skewer nut against remover. Skewer acts as a holding device for freewheel tool.

f. Turn remover clockwise until lockring is tight, at least 360 inch-pounds (approximately 40 Nm). For installing lockring, use of the sprocket chain whip tool is not required."

Grease the threads and don't cross thread and you'll be fine.

40nm is a lot of force (my BBB torque wrench only goes to 24nm), so it would be pretty difficult to torque it too much.

On the other hand you can leave it too loose and have the lockring come loose, ehich is not a good thing.

Depends on who's running the wrench, I think. Some people have no sense of physical perspective and will, in fact, over do it if they're strong enough.

Based on my experience with the torque wrench, however, you're correct that when it starts to click and grab, you're right about at 40 lbs., so I'd say that's a good guideline.

Fixed for clarification. 40 Newton-meters = ~354 inch lbs = 54 foot lbs.